Mod help, low voltage from pullies? Also intake help!

93LX5.0thunder

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Jun 1, 2006
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:D I have a lx 5.0. I have added headers, cat back, o/r prochamber, bbk aluminum pullies, throttle body spacer, march ram air. The car has been running great until recently. When you start it up the idle is terrible it wants to die but once it is warm it runs fine. With the A/C on at a stop the voltage is very low I do have a amp with 2 12's? It also will sometimes die. I did replace some vaccum lines whenI installed all the mods could I of hooked somthing up to the wrong vaccum lines or is this possible? Also When I was taking about a 2 hour trip the car suddenly died and bogged out started popping and missing bad. Let it sit and engine cooled down and it ran fine. The temp never got over half way on the highway either? One last question my next mod will be a intake and probally a cam at the same time with heads coming later? I do not have 1000 bucks for alums yet so I plan on a stage 1 trick flow cam with street heat intake? Will these work with my stock heads until the budget allows for a set of trick flow heads to match? Also how hard would these be to do? I installed all the other parts and it was simple. I have a clymer manual but does anyone have a link to install of cam or intake like a step by step? thanks so much and any help would be useful.
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Woah, too many questions at once.

ANyway, to help out with your charging probs, put the smallest pulley you have on the alt. If your stock alt pulley is smaller than the BBK., put that on. If you want even smaller, get an ASP 1 7/8" Overdrive alt pulley from summitracing for about $20. It's what i run with my underdrives and will speed the alt back up at idle
 

93LX5.0thunder

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Jun 1, 2006
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K thanks. Yea sorry about all the questions, thought I would not waste thread space with 4 different threads. Also what would you reccommened for the other issues and questions. I will try the stock pullie.
 

srothfuss

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93LX5.0thunder said:
:D I have a lx 5.0. I have added headers, cat back, o/r prochamber, bbk aluminum pullies, throttle body spacer, march ram air. The car has been running great until recently. When you start it up the idle is terrible it wants to die but once it is warm it runs fine. With the A/C on at a stop the voltage is very low I do have a amp with 2 12's?
If you are running the stock alternator, I suggest that you do the 3G conversion to up the amperage output from 65/75A to 130 or above. This will solve this problem


93LX5.0thunder said:
I did replace some vaccum lines whenI installed all the mods could I of hooked somthing up to the wrong vaccum lines or is this possible?
It's possible that you crossed a line along the way. Autozone or a Chiltons should have the correct diagrams you need to verify hose routing and locations.

93LX5.0thunder said:
Also When I was taking about a 2 hour trip the car suddenly died and bogged out started popping and missing bad. Let it sit and engine cooled down and it ran fine. The temp never got over half way on the highway either?
Install some aftermarket gauges. The stock units are a joke when it comes to accuracy. Next, dump the codes out of the computer. This should give you an idea of what items need to be looked into or repaired without spending too much time diagnosing the wrong problem.

93LX5.0thunder said:
One last question my next mod will be a intake and probally a cam at the same time with heads coming later? I do not have 1000 bucks for alums yet so I plan on a stage 1 trick flow cam with street heat intake? Will these work with my stock heads until the budget allows for a set of trick flow heads to match?
In all honesty, a Cobra intake on the stock heads would be OK. Anything too much bigger might cause driveabilty issues. But Cylinder heads will be the biggest single improvement that you can make on your car. I recommend that you save the money and do the heads first.

93LX5.0thunder said:
Also how hard would these be to do? I installed all the other parts and it was simple. I have a clymer manual but does anyone have a link to install of cam or intake like a step by step? thanks so much and any help would be useful.
JRichker / 5spd GT both have great write ups on cylinder head installations. You can use the search function to help locate them. Plan for an entire weekend if this is your first time.

:SNSign:
 

93LX5.0thunder

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Jun 1, 2006
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very nice thanks. So go for the cobra? What about a Frpp cam with this I want heads but after I do some more install work will I try it. Cam and intake is alot cheaper and I will have more issues with stock intake and cam if all I do is heads right?
 

srothfuss

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Intake only if you need to get something now...

swapping the cam is pointless if you don't change the heads. The stock cam is perfect for the stock heads.
 

jrichker

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Some help for the intake & cylinder heads.

Explorer intake swap.

I got mine off a 96 Mountaineer with the 19# injectors and 65 MM throttle body for $250.

The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.

If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.

6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing

Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".




Use the TPS and IAB from your old throttle body. All the EGR passages were there and fit OK. Use you old fuel rails and regulator. You will probably need a new EGR spacer adapter and gaskets. Without the EGR spacer, there is no place to mount the throttle linkage support bracket.

I used the stock water lines on the Explorer manifold and they connected up to the EGR without any problems. I made a “U” out of ½” copper pipe and sweat soldered it together. Then I used it and some hose with clamps to bypass the leaky heater I have. You don't need heat very often here in Central Florida...

The vacuum lines you need are 1 small line for fuel pressure regulator, 1 small line for A/C,1 small line for EGR and another small line for the smog pump. One big line at the back goes to the vacuum tree for the power brake & A/C, one big line goes to the PVC valve. The other big line goes out the front for the carbon canister. In a pinch, one of the small lines can connect to the spare port on the vacuum tree. Cap or plug the remaining lines since they aren't needed.

The stock Explorer linkage didn't come anywhere near fitting, so I made an adapter plate for the throttle linkage so I could use the 65 MM throttle body.

This is what I did:
Make a drawing of the position of the old throttle body linkage arm and its angular position relative to the centerline of the throttle body. Remove the ball stud off the explorer TB to make way for the adapter plate. Drill and tap a 10-32 hole in the linkage parallel to the TB shaft. Make an angle bracket out of 1" angle iron 3/8", drill a 3/16” hole in the center of each one of the legs. Then bolt it on where the hole was drilled & tapped. Then make a circular adapter plate out of 1/4" thick aluminum to bolt the two linkage arms together. Then bolt the aluminum plate to the existing linkage, and the angle bracket. Next mount the arm with the ball stud off the old throttle body on the adapter plate using the drawing to get the angle correct. You will need an aircraft type countersink for one of the bolts that secures the plate to the explorer linkage arm. It ends up being under the arm with the ball stud for the linkage. It works great and looks neat.

A trip to the welding shop with the explorer TB and the arm from your old Mustang TB would probably accomplish the same thing. I didn't have access to a welder, so I fabb'ed the plate in my shop. I took about 1.5 hours to do it, it was a measure, cut, and fit type of operation.

Also see http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ConvertingExplorer65mmTB.pdf for modifications to adapt the 65 MM Explorer TB to a Mustang

Vacuum line connections:
One large vacuum line from the upper front goes to the carbon canister

One large vacuum line from the rear goes to the vacuum tree.

One small line in the front feeds the Smog pump solenoid control valves on the rear of the passenger side wheel well..

One small line in the rear goes to the fuel pressure regulator.

One small line in the rear goes to the EGR suction regulator.

One large line in the rear goes to the PVC valve.

Here's some tips...

Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.

The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.

Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out.

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.

Consumable items:
Upper manifold gasket
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)

Cylinder head removal & replacement

Plan on 3 days to do the job if you haven't done it before.

Day one gets the heads off in 4-6 hours. Remove the A/C compressor mount bolts and move the compressor out of the way. The A/C compressor swings out of the way without disconnecting any of the lines or losing any refrigerant. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them.

Day two gets all the gasket surfaces scraped off extra clean and the heads dropped off at the machine shop if you are going to have them reconditioned. Time here is another 4-6 hours. Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

Day three starts when you get the heads back from the machine shop. This is the time to pick up all the little odd pieces you found needing replacement on your day two inspection/cleanup. Plan on 6-8 hours to reinstall the heads and reconnect everything. Plan on an additional 2 hours to troubleshoot/adjust everything.

Now for some practical tips:

Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out.

You'll need new head bolts - get ARP bolts ($40) or studs ($93, maybe more). All the bolts get antiseize under the bolt heads, and everything but the short head bolts get it on the threads. You need Teflon pipe dope or ARP sealant to coat the threads of the short head bolts. The short bolts go into the water jacket and will seep coolant if you don't use the sealant.

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Walla! No leaks and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together.

For iron heads, clean the combustion chambers with a wire brush in an air or electric drill. I used a scraper for the pistons. I don't like to use the wire brush on pistons because it will remove metal very easily.

Change the oil once you get everything back together. Once the engine is up & running, run it for 1-2 hours and change the oil.

Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor.

Consumable parts:
Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Head gaskets
upper manifold gasket
lower manifold gasket set.
Exhaust manifold gasket set
Rocker cover gaskets - look for the rubber ones with the steel bushings - Summit has them
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
ARP thread sealer or Teflon pipe dope for the short bolts.
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)
 

93LX5.0thunder

New Member
Jun 1, 2006
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Wow lol that really went beyond my expectations as for a reply good job very informitive. Now I might sound like a pain in the butt but I need some more answers. As for the vaccum lines switched them around and it is running and idling awsome now. Now I am sure I could save money by buying the explorer intake maybe 50-100 bucks but will I honestly be getting a piece that will flow as much as the cobra? And I do intend on the cobra unit like a new piece off ebay that comes with everything around 330 shipped new. Everything should fit up fine right? I will go by everything you told me since they cobra and explorer seem to be very similar. Lastly I have had a big change in opinion rather that going for heads and cam next month I found a 1500.00 supercharger kit (paxton) on ebay? Will this kit with what I have be better bang for buck and easier to install rather than Heads and cam? Will the stock pump do fine with a FMU that it comes with or will I need to get just the pump? I would rather do the S/C since it does seem rather easy to install. Can I keep my underdrive pullies? And if I do get the fuel pump rather than a FMU just bolting on the supercharger 6psi and throwing in the pump it will start up and be fine or will I need to take it to get fuel pressure adjusted tuned ext? Thanks so much and your awsome your help is apprciated so much.:nice:
 
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