N/A vs Blown

[Jackie Chan]

I posted this setup in another thread in Talk, he is on the board but barely posts anymore. This is his old set up and would be pretty cheap to copy. If you want a car that can hold its own, just throw cams in and tune it. To get the heads worked, you are going to spend some money. I would just copy this, save for longtubes and either drop your compression down or leave it the same. Cheap and reliable, VT stage 2's, once tuned drive pretty damn smooth, smoother than my cobra anyway.

JBA Shortie Headers
UPR o/r X-pipe
UPR Cold Air pipe (with K&N Open filter off of the MAF)
Borla mufflers with turndowns
ASP Pulleys
Superchips Custom Tunning Flash
Denso Spark Plugs (gap @ .052)
Accufab 70mm Throttle Body and Plenum
VT Stage 2's
24lb injectors
this car dynoed 294 and 317 on one dyno and 305rwhp on another

 

[DBMSTNG]

What would you have to spend N/A to get 400 RWHP on pump gas vs a S/C?

I think you will find the S/C a better deal.

as far as i know, noone has been able to get 400rwhp out of a N/A 2V yet.

 

[53BigDog]

as far as i know, noone has been able to get 400rwhp out of a N/A 2V yet.

Yea, but 350-375 would be sweet!

 

[DBMSTNG]

Yea, but 350-375 would be sweet!

and more expensive than just getting a blower.

not to mention daily drivability.

 

[Jackie Chan]

Yea, but 350-375 would be sweet!

for a guy to go to 300rwhp from a NPI car that would be sweet too?

most guys with stock compression and worked heads with cams get into the 310+ range pretty easily upwards of 320. This will still have good drivability as well.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I like the blower idea, but as others have said, you've got to go with what your budget allows. It's true as Jackie stated that getting 12's out of a blower car isn't all that impressive, but it isn't all that hard either. Not to mention you can retain stone stock idle, drivability and fuel economy in the process. Not something easily done with a heavily modified, cammed high strung N/A mod motor. With a blower, the power is there for the taking when you want it. And if you so desire, more power is nothing more than a pulley swap and a flash tune away.

 

[MEandmyKB]

Supercharger.

 

[tomustang]

Not toast at all, just in need of crank bearings (at least from what I can see with everything still assembled.)

I was right

 

[streetstang03]

2V = blower.

 

[hognutz]

my .02 is you can't build great power with 2v n/a. It is not like a normal old small block. there are no 500hp n/a combo's out there. hence you power potenitial is limited. it also just cost a ton.

I don't like bashing the 2v as it is not a horrible platform but lets face it there are no monster 2v's out there n/a. most people even with all kinds of money in it 330-340rwhp is the tops they will see. so roughly 400crank hp. I mean I am a chevy guy too and to build a 400hp SBC is cheap and easy. I mean you can do that with vortec factory heads at $450 a set. you have to buy $1800 heads for a 4.6 to event think about it. a $150 intake on a sbc will get you 400hp. you need a $1200+ intake on a 4.6L

so IMO the cost per hp levels out boosted. I am a n/a guy as well I wanted to go that route I just could not rationlize it.

once you boost them though you can make a boatload of power and the cost per hp can level out a bit. I mean a 500rwhp car is ~600crank hp. now this is expensive to build no matter what you are building.

 

[hotmustang331]

as far as i know, noone has been able to get 400rwhp out of a N/A 2V yet.

Nope, not on pump gas anyways. But thats where i come in . Ill be trying to be the first to achieve it.

But to the starter, you will be more than happy with ported heads and some nice cams (comp 270 [watch PTV contact...need to be degreed in] or some VT stg 2s). With 10-1 CR you should easily make over 320RWHP...probably around 330. And you will run high 11s with some hook up and some driving, and you should go close to 113+MPH given good weather. It will have PLENTY of pull in the seat, and you will love the looks that you get when your idling. Blower seems like too much $$$ for what your wanting. Im trapping almost 109 with mild cams, stock heads, and on 275/15 Drs with the spare pulled. Im more than happy with the car and the N/A route .

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I was right

You have plenty of recent experience.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I mean I am a chevy guy too and to build a 400hp SBC is cheap and easy.

You know I used to think that too, and you always see them in the magazines, but with the exception of the LT/LS-1's, 350's in general are slugs. I can't tell you how many so called 350-400hp 350 Chevy's I've seen that can't even break out of the 14's. My friend spend over $10,000 on a 4-bolt main for his '75 Vette, believing he would be churning out close to 400hp (according to Edelbrocks RPM "Power Package") In the end, he's barely making over 250hp and hasn't run better than 9.8 in the 1/8. Hell, when the car was bone stock it ran 10.1.....and that was with the factory 165hp. It's a dog, and his isn't the only one. I've got another friend who tried the same thing and built the engine in his Camaro to the exact specs of a "Chevy High Performance" article that claimed 350rwhp out of a 350. End result....a best of 14.7 in the 1/4. Neither car will even come close to breaking the tires loose at the line from a dead stop. Very dissapointing.

I always hear plenty of talk about these street sweeper, power mad Chevy small blocks, but with the exception of the LS engines I mentioned above, I've not yet seen it for myself!

 

[53BigDog]

Nope, not on pump gas anyways. But thats where i come in . Ill be trying to be the first to achieve it.

But to the starter, you will be more than happy with ported heads and some nice cams (comp 270 [watch PTV contact...need to be degreed in] or some VT stg 2s). With 10-1 CR you should easily make over 320RWHP...probably around 330. And you will run high 11s with some hook up and some driving, and you should go close to 113+MPH given good weather. It will have PLENTY of pull in the seat, and you will love the looks that you get when your idling. Blower seems like too much $$$ for what your wanting. Im trapping almost 109 with mild cams, stock heads, and on 275/15 Drs with the spare pulled. Im more than happy with the car and the N/A route .

Thanks that is great knowledge too. I am really an N/A kinda guy (along your track) but am looking to be convinced to spend the extra $$ on the blower.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I am really an N/A kinda guy (along your track) but am looking to be convinced to spend the extra $$ on the blower.

Go take a blown 4.6L car for a drive, after that you won't need any more convincing.

 

[hotmustang331]

LOL ok....like said go test drive one. Its wierd, power is not directly related to what the boost gauge is reading....it acts "different" than N/A...yet it almost feels N/A lol. that was my impression after driving 2 cobras (03 and 04).

 

[the98stang]

I would rather have a N/A running high 12's compared to a boosted GT running the same quarter mile times. It may take more money to get a N/A GT into the 12's, but in my book that's WAY more impressive than a boosted car. I'd love to see someone spray a 100 shot in their GT and hear the rod knock

fools...

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I would rather have a N/A running high 12's compared to a boosted GT running the same quarter mile times. It may take more money to get a N/A GT into the 12's, but in my book that's WAY more impressive than a boosted car. I'd love to see someone spray a 100 shot in their GT and hear the rod knock

fools...

More impressive....perhaps. I guess if you're going along the lines of thinking that you're able to build up a naturally aspirated engine that will run with a mildly blown car, but a stock blower or nitrous car with the same sort of effort put into it, will run mid/high-11's, not mid/high-12's. Not to mention in order to get a N/A car to do it, you've got to sacrifice low speed drivability, smooth idle and over all fuel economy. A blower car runs stock as a rock until you put your foot into it.

....and a 100 shot of spray won't guarantee you to take out a rod in a stock 4.6L. There are literally thousands of owners running that much spray and more on their stock short blocks, without as much as a hiccup. How it runs and how long it lasts depends solely on the tune up accompanying it. If you get too greedy with the timing curve and too lean with the fuel curve in order to eek out every last ounce of power, then there's a good chance that down the road, you're going to end up pushing your ride home one day. Keep things reasonable and you're engine will last just as long as it would stock!

 

[DropTopPony]

as far as i know, noone has been able to get 400rwhp out of a N/A 2V yet.

Most I've ever seen was Ken B from Mod Depot and his was 360RWHP with everything taken to the limit. High compression, wild cams, extreme head porting, P51 intake I think also. And was not a streetable set up. He ditched that motor for a 4V NA. He is selling that shortblock if anyone wants a head start on their NA cruiser.

 

[the98stang]

More impressive....perhaps. I guess if you're going along the lines of thinking that you're able to build up a naturally aspirated engine that will run with a mildly blown car, but a stock blower or nitrous car with the same sort of effort put into it, will run mid/high-11's, not mid/high-12's. Not to mention in order to get a N/A car to do it, you've got to sacrifice low speed drivability, smooth idle and over all fuel economy. A blower car runs stock as a rock until you put your foot into it.

....and a 100 shot of spray won't guarantee you to take out a rod in a stock 4.6L. There are literally thousands of owners running that much spray and more on their stock short blocks, without as much as a hiccup. How it runs and how long it lasts depends solely on the tune up accompanying it. If you get too greedy with the timing curve and too lean with the fuel curve in order to eek out every last ounce of power, then there's a good chance that down the road, you're going to end up pushing your ride home one day. Keep things reasonable and you're engine will last just as long as it would stock!

Yes I know a 100 shot won't guarentee a blown engine, but too many people use power adders with out properly tuning their cars. I can guarentee an engine with a supercharger will NOT last as long as a car that is naturally aspirated. The stock bottom end on our 4.6L's were NOT made for boost. If Ford wanted all GT's to have superchargers, they would have done that, right? Or maybe they would have made it an option. Sure the saleens and cobra's are S/C'ed, but the bottom ends were built for it. Boosted engines are just sitting on borrowed time. Even if the engine was built for boost, it will still wear down faster compared to a N/A engine. If you got the time/money to deal with an unrealiable car, then by all means, pump 20 psi in that b1tch!