Engine Need oil whisperer input

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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May 8, 2006
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So I'm attempting to get my engine running after about 5 years. It was a fresh build when left alone and had never been started. I'm about at my wits end as I just can't seem to figure this one out. It acts like it wants to start then fails to do so.

Engine: fresh 306, with F303 cam, AFR 185 outlaws, Edelbrock performer intake, and an HP Turbo kit.

So far I've run through Jrichker's checklist and only skipped portions I could prove further down the chain.

I have verified fuel and spark but am still at a loss.

Tested the coil, TFI module, wires and distributor. All good
Tested the fuel pump, lines, regulator, and injectors and injector signal. All good

Thrown mud at a wall and purchased/installed a new tank (needed), pump(needed), injectors (needed), distributor and coil.

I've only found one cylinder that didn't want to build compression and will reset the pre-load once Jegs delivers some new adjusters.

Feel free to pummel me with questions, or throw your experience in here. I'm about to sacrifice a bucket of chicken to car Gods to get it working.
 

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rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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May 8, 2006
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Picked up a "new" Spectra from O'reiley's and replaced the MSD. No change. The sad art is that it sounds like it's about to start then nothing. Additionally, the 42lb injectors are putting a good bit of fuel in there, so I don't want to keep cranking for a long time.
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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Can you verify tdc and timing ?
Is it a stock ecu with a chip, aftermarket ecu or
stock with stock tune?
Probably stupid to suggest but could it be flooding, if you floor it whe cranking it will cut fuel to the injectors.
In my experience I've never had any luck with anything but Ford ignition parts....pick up coil, shutter wheel etc.
I run a Spectra distributor on my 393w but all the internal electronics are Motorcraft.
 

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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We're sitting at tdc and have advanced/retarded the timing a bit in attempt to get it running. The computer was dyno tuned for a very similar combo with stock HCI. Should be good enough to get her started.
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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So I'm guessing it's a stock computer with a
chip ?
You could try pulling the chip and see if it starts.
Would run like crap on stock tune but would eliminate or verify chip/tune issue.
Just a thought.
 

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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May 8, 2006
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So I'm guessing it's a stock computer with a
chip ?
You could try pulling the chip and see if it starts.
Would run like crap on stock tune but would eliminate or verify chip/tune issue.
Just a thought.
Honestly, hadn't thought about it, but might be the next step after straightening out the valve train.
 

Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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Did you verify that the computer is still good? When I first got my car it was fine then it wasn't. Went through all the testing only to find that the capacitors on the computer board had failed.
 

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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May 8, 2006
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Did you verify that the computer is still good? When I first got my car it was fine then it wasn't. Went through all the testing only to find that the capacitors on the computer board had failed.
We did get the valve adjusters in today, but I'll wait to install tomorrow. Believe it or not, I was just reading a Corral forum post regarding the 3 capacitors that tent to go. If it's not valve timing, it very well may be the computer, so time for some more research.
 

rdharper02

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Replaced all three tonight. Two of the capacitors had something resembling flux running out of the canister. Problem now is that we've identified a heat condition where the car does not want to re-start after running for awhile. Any thoughts gents?
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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So it starts and idles now ?
Hot restart after heat soak issue is probably tune related, for me I've been adjusting the cranking pulse at certain temps
to fine tune.
 

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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Seems to have cleared after replacing the capacitors. New problem is a metallic noise coming from the passenger side. It's not quite knocking, not quite pinging, but definitely metallic. Problem is that the manifold on that side goes directly into the turbo. We're pulling the intake and valve cover to see what we can find, but I'm just hoping it is not internal.
 

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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Valves good. Springs good. Piston on #1 good. Dropping the oil to look for metal, then pulling the turbo to look for damage. Wish me luck.
 
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rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
10 Year Member
May 8, 2006
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I've pulled the oil filter and found what I think is a ton of glitter. Now, I've had fuel in the oil, so it just makes sense that the viscosity would break down and cause excessive wear on the mains. However, I've never pulled apart a filter on break in and have several folks telling me to drop the oil, refill, and carry on. Anyone with experience reading filters?
pan oil.jpg

filter element
filter element.jpg
 
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