New Four Eyed Owner

[Nicholas Roth]

Hey guys, new to the fox mustangs but just bought a pretty good looking 1984 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatch. This car has 66k original and almost bone stock when it comes to parts. Interior is almost perfect except the dash which has cracks in it. Probably going to get it replaced to make it pretty nice inside. Has very minimal rust and absolutely no holes. Only other thing that needs to be replaced is the weather molds around the doors. The car fires up beautifully and idles perfectly. The car is a light blue with black stripe down the middle of the hood. I think the color is #35 Academy Light Blue but I could be wrong and apparently there were only 102 of these made with this exact specification. I'm curious to hear what you guys think?? Maybe give pointers? What value this car is looking at right now? I personally would like to keep it stock. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you

 

[Deleted member 215073]

Very clean, and it has T tops. How does it drive?

 

[Nicholas Roth]

Handles well. Steering wheel doesn't shake with higher speeds. Gears go in smoothly. A little bumpy but hey its an old car.

 

[FoxChasis]

Looks like a repaint to me

(35) Light Academy Blue Glow is lighter than that
(5C) Dark Academy Blue Metallic is darker than that

1984 5.0L GTs did not have a hood scoop

102 made with code 35 paint is for all 1984 5.0L hatchbacks (LX and GT combined)

 

[Mustang5L5]

Would concur it's been repainted.


This is light academy blue

 

[Nicholas Roth]

Is there a good way of knowing the original? The VIN simply says blue

 

[Mustang5L5]

Door sticker, if still present

 

[Nicholas Roth]

So you guys would say it is an LX without even looking at the sticker?

 

[FoxChasis]

Is there a good way of knowing the original? The VIN simply says blue

I don't know how you're getting "blue" from the VIN but the only way you can get that info is through Ford's production database (Ford "build sheet" or Marti report) and in that case they would not just call it "blue".

 

[FoxChasis]

So you guys would say it is an LX without even looking at the sticker?

Car is not original so it's impossible to tell by that pic. You need to post up the VIN or the door tag, or the buck tag, etc.

 

[Nicholas Roth]

Is the Marti Report worth the money?

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

I don't know how you're getting "blue" from the VIN but the only way you can get that info is through Ford's production database (Ford "build sheet" or Marti report) and in that case they would not just call it "blue".

Very true. I feel like trading in my "man card" every time I say the color of my car (wild strawberry, lol).

@Nicholas Roth If you have a door tag (near your door striker) it will have a paint code. My code I believe is EL.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Is the Marti Report worth the money?

It's good if you really think you have something unique and wanted it documented. I did it simply because I had my car so long and wanted more documehtion.

In hindsight, I didn't feel it was worth it

 

[mikestang63]

nice car.. Keep it stock.

Value? who cares unless you are selling and trust me- you don't buy Fox Body Mustangs because you think they are going to appreciate. Enoy the car and the smile factor. If it makes you some money down the road, that's gravy.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

If you want the details, listen to what @FoxChasis has to say to you. He is truely the guru concerning information data. Get a picture of the door tag and the buck tag from the radiator support.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Beautiful car! Welcome to the sickness. I already have a list of mods in my head that I would do, but I like to ruin perfectly good cars like that. Post more pics!

 

[Nicholas Roth]

Thanks guys! I am trying to keep it as stock as possible. I am in Minnesota and finding the perfect Mustang within a reasonable radius is hard to find. The ones I find are so modded out with things I have never heard of or the fully stock ones are prices that are way out of my price range. I guess when I say value I mean if I payed the right price for it. I payed 3800 for it and it is hard to tell worth by one picture but the interior is almost mint with the exception of a cracked dash. The exterior is pretty good, the trim moldings on the side are starting to peal... Any pointers on those?? Couple scratches here and there. Rust is pretty minimal. The floor pans are starting to see rust which is the first thing on the list. The strut towers look brand new which really made me happy. The passenger door I am able to slightly lift it vertically which I want to get fixed as well. Any pointers on those things?

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I can help you on a couple of those things. The moulding are fairly easy, but it would be good to see a picture of them and see how much they've started to curl up. I'll give you my opinion after i've seen them. There's a couple different ways to go about it depending on how bad they are.

The passenger door? Your hinge bushings are worn out. It's a simple pain in the as* to fix. Look in LMR's website for a new kit. It's pretty cheap. This is going to sound simple, you take out the old hinge pins, replace the bushings and put in the new hinge pins. It's the doing that's the pita.

 

[Nicholas Roth]

I was able to take off one of the moldings with a heat gun and a plastic chisel. I have it under a large can of water (heavy) to hopefully flatten in out. If that works then I will be looking for some 2 sided heavy duty tape. Any pointers on the kind of tape?

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I was able to take off one of the moldings with a heat gun and a plastic chisel. I have it under a large can of water (heavy) to hopefully flatten in out. If that works then I will be looking for some 2 sided heavy duty tape. Any pointers on the kind of tape?

The weight on the moulding won't make any difference, sorry. The plastic of the moulding shrinks ever so slightly over the years, but the metal backing doesn't. That's what causes it to curl up.

You have to separate the two with a little heat from the backside. once they're separated, you'll need to let the plastic relax back into being flat. you may need to use a heat gun to help it along. Once the plastic is flat again, use some trim adhesive to glue it to the metal backing again. You will probably need to trim off a small bit of the metal backing. Remember, the plastic has shrunk.

To put it back on the door, use 3M two sided tape. Of course after you have removed all of the old tape residue.

3M has some adhesion wipes. I don't have their number off the top of my head. They come in small individual packages, you may need to use three or four for this. Use these prior to applying the trim adhesive and also use it on the painted surface of the door prior to sticking the moulding back on. This really makes a big difference. Be sure to do it.