New Guy From Ny

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Sarge261, May 9, 2013.

  1. Hello folks,

    I'm new here and new to the fox body world, I'm coming from a 86 Buick Grand National, which thanks to taxes and being a small business owner I had to sell. I made out ok, and was able to pick up a clean 88 GT hatch Back with T-Tops, its a 1 owner car with 53k on the ticker...its got a few issues but its clean and straight. I haven't driven it much but its nice...although I'm still missing my GN.

    I do have a few questions about the car....

    Where is the best place to get parts, I did purchase a speedo cable from Mustangs Unlimited and they seemed great to work with and shipping was fast.

    The fuel gauge is reading above full, so I'm assuming the sending unit is shot, if I replace the sending unit, should I do something with the pump while I'm in there or is it good enough, I would like to do some mild upgrades but nothing too radical?

    The car is in need of paint, its faded and although I buffed it, its too far gone, is there any NOS door trim out there, and if so where?

    Thanks, I'm sure I will have lots more questions as I go along I just don't know anything about these cars other than I've always wanted one.

  2. Late model restoration and American muscle are good places to start. They pretty much carry any restoration part you may need.i have them on speed dial.

    I'm not sure what part of NY your from but there's 2 excellent shops on Long Island. JM Performance he is awesome with motors and everything in between and Realspeed which are excellent with suspensions breaks etc... Good luck
  3. My shopping I do at LateModelRestoration, then my second stop is American Muscle. Those will be the two you hear a lot of, and obviously Summit is also another highly recommended place to buy from.

    If your replacing the sending unit, replace it all, along with the fuel filter. Its all right there, so why not nail out everything in one shot, then you know its new? Thats almost like replacing a rear main seal and not your OEM/Old clutch ;)

    53K miles and the sending unit is out? Are you sure its not 153K?

    Oh yeah, and WHERE ARE THE PICS? :)
  4. Its definately 53k...I bought it from the original owner and I have all the papwer work. Remeber the car is an 88 after all.

    Those were the places I have been looking at parts so Im glad to hear that others are using them as well.

    As soon as I figure out how to attach a picture I will for sure.

    I was just wondering if there was an upgrade or better fuel pump then the OEM one if there was something better out there. I was gonna do it while I was in there.


  5. Sarge,welcome. You will find people here are a great resource of knowledge and are willing to help you out.

    LMRS is a great vendor. They even give you a discount for being a Stangnet member. Summit is also a vendor I recommend. NOS door trim is rather expensive but available.

    I would go with a walbro 155 pump. It's not that much more expensive than a stock one. People often throw the largest pump (190 or 225) on a stock motor on thinking it is better, when actually it creates excess heat and puts additional stress on the FPR for a stock motor. The 155 will support well into 300+ hp.

    The junkyards, craiglist, the message boards, and Ebay are great places to find parts cheap. People are always parting out these cars.
  6. Here's an answer to one of your problems...

    Fuel Quantity gauge troubleshooting 87-93 Mustangs


    The red/yellow wire (power supply to gauge & sender) should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the start or Run position.

    Troubleshooting the gauge and sender circuit:
    Since the sender uses a variable resistor, sum the resistor values of 22 Ohms (empty value) & 145 Ohms (full value). That gets you 167, which you divide by 2: that gets you 83.5. So in theory, 83.5 ohms is 1/2 full. A trip to Radio Shack for the closest combination of resistors to make 83.5 ohms gets you one 68 Ohm (Catalog #: 271-1106) + one 15 Ohm (Catalog #: 271-1102) for a total of 83 Ohms at the cost of $2 plus tax. Wire the resistors in series to make a resistor pack and cover it with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape. The 83 Ohms is close enough to the 83.5 Ohm figure that it shouldn't matter. Disconnect the electrical connector shown in your for the tank sender unit. Connect one end of the resistor pack to the yellow/white wire on the body side fuel sender electrical connector and the other end of the resistor pack to ground. Make sure nothing is touching that isn't supposed to and turn the ignition switch to Run. If I am correct, the fuel gauge will read 1/2 full, or very close to it. If it does not, then the odds are that the gauge or anti-slosh unit are bad.

    How and why the test works…
    Most of the fuel gauge failures give a stuck on full or stuck on empty as a problem symptom. Using a resistor combination that mimics 1/2 tank allows you to decide if the gauge and anti-slosh module are the problem source.

    If the gauge reads about 1/2 tank with the resistor combination, that points to the sender as being the culprit.

    If the gauge reads full or empty with the resistor pack in place of the sender, then the gauge or anti-slosh module is at fault.

    Fuel gauge sender testing and replacement
    The next steps require dropping the fuel tank and removal of the fuel level sender. Here are some useful tips...

    I have done the tank removal three times, and the main issues are getting the car up on jack stands and getting the gas out of the tank. DO NOT try to do this job without jack stands. Becoming a pancake is not part of the repair process.

    Pumping out the old gas:
    If the old pump still works, you can use it to pump the tank out.
    1.) Separate the pressure line (the one with the Schrader valve on it) using the fuel line tools.
    Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling.

    Use a piece of garden hose to run from the pressure line to your bucket or gas can. Make sure it is as leak proof as you can make it. Fire and explosion are not part of the repair process...

    2.) Jumper the fuel pump test point to ground.


    Turn the ignition switch to the Run position. the fuel pump will pump the tank almost dry unless the battery runs down first.

    Some 5 gallon paint pails lined with garbage bags are good to hold the gas. The garbage bags provide a clean liner for the pails and keep the loose trash out of the gas so you can reuse it. If you decide to use a siphon, a piece of 1/2" garden hose stuck down the filler neck will siphon all but a gallon or so of the gas.

    Remove the filler neck bolts and put them in a zip bag. Disconnect the supply & return lines by removing the plastic clips from the metal tubing. If you damage the clips, you can get new ones form the auto part store for just a few dollars. I have used tie-wraps, but that is not the best choice. Then you remove the two 9/16" nuts that hold the T bolts to the straps. Put the nuts in the zip bag with the filler bolts. Pull the plastic shield down and away from the tank. Once the tank drops a little bit you can disconnect the wiring for the pump & fuel quantity sender.

    The fuel gauge sender assembly comes out by removing a large metal ring that unscrews from the tank. There is a separate mounting/access plate for the fuel pump and fuel gage. You are supposed to use a brass punch to tap on the ring so that you don't make sparks. Look closely at the rubber O ring gasket when you remove the fuel gauge sender.
    When you install the metal ring that holds the sender in place, watch out for the gasket O ring. Some RTV may be helpful if the ring is not in excellent condition.

    The tank to filler pipe seal is a large rubber grommet. Inspect it for hardening, tears and damage. At $20 from the Ford dealer, it might be a good idea to replace it.

    I used a floor jack to help lift the tank back in place. You may find that it is the only time you really can make good use of a helper.

    All resistance measurements should be made with the power off.

    Note from bstrd86 - 86 and older fuel tank sender units are 73 ohms empty, 8-12 ohms full.

    The yellow/white wire will show a voltage that varies with the movement of the float on the sender unit. To test the sender, set your Ohmmeter or DVM on low Ohms. Then disconnect the sender and connect the Ohmmeter or DVM to the yellow/white and black wires from the sender unit. Move the float arm while watching the Ohmmeter or DVM. You should see the reading change from 22 to 145 ohms +/- 10%.

    If the Ohmmeter or DVM resistance readings are way off, replace the tank sender unit.

    Use extreme caution if you do the next step. Fumes from the gas tank can easily ignite and cause a fire or explosion.
    With the sender unit out of the tank and connected to the body wiring harness, turn the ignition switch to the Run position. Move the float arm and the fuel gauge indicator should move. If you are very careful, you can use a pair of safety pins inserted in the connector for the yellow/white and black wires to measure the voltage as you move the float arm. The voltage will change, but I have no specs for what it should be.
    Do not short the safety pins together or to ground. If you do, you may damage the anti-slosh module or crate a spark. A spark with the fuel tank open could cause a fire or an explosion.

    If the voltage does not change and the tanks sender passed the resistance tests, the anti-slosh module or gauge is bad.

    Anti-Slosh module pictures courtesy of Saleen0679


    Copied from DrBob

    I worked on an 88 Mustang today that had similar symptoms. Short version, I took the “anti slosh module” off of the back of the instrument cluster and replaced the electrolytic capacitor. Fixed it for $1.39 with a part from Radio Shack.

    In an attempt to help other folks, here’s the long version.
    Remove the “anti slosh module” located on the back of the instrument cluster. There was a single Torx screw holding mine to the cluster.

    Find the electrolytic capacitor. It will be the largest, 2 wire component on the board. The capacitor may have a red or blue plastic wrapper on it. Mine was red.

    The wrapper should have printing on it. Look for printing that looks something like this:

    The “100uF” tells you this is a 100 micro Farad capacitor. The “+25V” tells you the capacitor is rated for 25 Volts. Yours may be different. You may use a higher voltage part but don't use a lower rated voltage part. If you use a lower voltage part the capacitor might open later on down the road or it could be as bad as catching fire.

    If you can’t find the printing you’ll need to remove the part. You have to anyway so nothing wasted. However pay close attention to the way the capacitor is oriented on the board.

    One end of the capacitor will be bare metal with a wire sticking out. The other end should have some sort of insulation over it with a wire sticking out. The bare metal end is the negative end while the insulated end is the positive end. Pay attention to which end is connected to which hole on the board.

    Get a replacement part. I got mine at Radio Shack, $1.39. Here’s the info:
    100µF 35V 20% Axial-Lead Electrolytic Capacitor
    Model: 272-1016 | Catalog #: 272-1016

    Fuel tank sender unit:

    Be sure to get the lock ring and a new seal if you order the tank sender unit.\
  7. Thanks for the replies that's what I was after. Also is there a source for OEM shop manuals, I ordered a set for my Buick from Faxxon, not sure if they would have them or the Mustang.


  8. You can subscribe to alldata

    In addition to online service manuals, you also get TSB's, diagrams, and book times for repairs.
  9. See and take your choice. Some manuals are paper while others are CD/DVD

    Some resources from Helm:

    1988 Engine Emission Service Manual
    Price: $69.00 Print to Order - Reproduction of Original Publication
    Pkg Qty: 1
    (English, Paper, FPS1210688H)

    They don't seem th have shop manual for an 88, but they do for an 89, which is the same car with Mass Air Fuel Injection insted of the 88's Speed Density.

    1989 Mustang Shop Manual
    Price: $26.00 In Stock - Reproduction of Original Publication
    Pkg Qty: 1
    (English, Paper, FPS1219389)

    The 87 and 88 electrical system are identcial, so there' a manual for the 87 Mustang but not the 88.

    1987 Mustang Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
    Price: $15.00 In Stock
    Pkg Qty: 1
    (English, Paper, FPS1212187)

    More resources - FREE!!

    See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Everyone should bookmark this site.

    Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs

    Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs

    Ignition switch wiring

    Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring

    Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs

    HVAC vacuum diagram

    TFI module differences & pin out

    Fuse box layout

    87-92 power window wiring PowerWindowWiring.gif

    93 power window wiring See this for all sorts of tips and tricks for the common Mustang problems, upgrades and add on part from other year Mustangs that will fit you car.