I am new to the website, also just got my first car (88 mustang gt hb). I have done a little work here and there to it,(replace air hose with cold air intake) ( also replace crappy exhaust with magnaflow with dumps) them are the major things that I have done to it besides tires, oil change, tranny fluid change that is about it. But on with the question at hand. It has been acting really wierd here lately in the past 1-2 months. The worst just started recently, when acceling down the road it will start to shake and sputter like it is out of gas but after about 5 sec it goes away. But it can't be out of gas when I just put $10.00 in it, the tech guy at summit said it would need a maf conversion done to it. Since I replaced them items,need help fast don't know what to do.
Newbie
- Thread starter 5.0_sleeper
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Have you pulled codes yet? WIth no CEL, any time an issue arises, it's a smart move. Stand-by and I bet Jrichker posts some info to assist you in code retrieval (if ya need it). You can search real quick too.
Good luck.
Good luck.
The car should run fine on speed density. You don't need a MAF conversion to fix the current problem.
Run the engine codes. 88's done have a working check engine light so you gotta run them blind so to speak.
Run the engine codes. 88's done have a working check engine light so you gotta run them blind so to speak.
welcome 5.0 sleeper well im new here to so u have an 88 hb thats cool i have a 88 notch right now its under counstruction but hopefully in a month everything should be done too it
well briging it beack to stock.......... well i allready put on bbk shortys and bbk colds air but every thing else is stock
well briging it beack to stock.......... well i allready put on bbk shortys and bbk colds air but every thing else is stock
83Mustang427TT
New Member
- Jan 18, 2006
- 162
- 0
- 0
He doesnt need an MAF now but he said future mods maybe he should do it now. Also change your fuel filter that should help the sputtering
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Similar threads
