I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge sitting on a shelf in the garage, I may install that if the plugs show my A/F to be way off.
It's a method. I used it for my old n/a setup. The only problem is, for example, when you're way to lean at WOT, you can up the fuel pressure to compensate, but if you have to make a significant change, then even the adaptive changes that the EEC does won't be able to compensate throughout the rest of the powerband, or at differing loads. In my old car, I had to bump the fuel pressure up to 55psi to run right. That worked for WOT, but at idle it was so rich it made my eyes water.
The Abaco MAF meter is also programmable, so I may play with that a little.
I started to write about that a little, but then realized that you can't do anything about the limiter, the timing curves, etc... But A/F curves can definitely be adjusted. Though it is effective, adjusting fuel pressure is basically a band-aid. Adjusting the meter will definitely allow you to get the A/F where you want it.
Yea, yea... It's gone.
I took it out yesterday, and it was actually a bitch to take apart. But, it got old real quick trying to take the oil cap off, and the worry of it coming apart inside the engine was consuming me. I need to explore other options to keep oil out of the throttle body (though, I've driven it since, and it has not seemed to burn any more oil). Ideas?
Ideas:
1. You can fab or buy a catch can to run between the valve cover and the throttle body.
2. You can plug the throttle body and run a breather either as your Oil cap, or seperately, of of either valve cover, with a catch can.
3. You can run taller valve covers that allow for both a baffle and clearance for your rockers.
4. You can just not worry about the little bit of oil that will get into your TB when you're WOT.
Typically, when there is a vacuum, air is flowing from the throttle body to the valve cover, through the crankcase to the PCV valve and back into the lower intake. The only time oil should make it all the way to the throttle body is when you're experience positive pressure in the crankcase and there is no better place for the air/oil to go. That will happen at WOT because of blowby (even the best built engines have some), and a lack of vacuum in the intake.
Keep in mind that by changing the fresh air source away from the TB, you are now going to be moving unmetered air into the motor, which will affect your tune. Not a problem for us speed density guys
I will probably run a Quarterhorse. I like the idea of a Megasquirt, but I already have everything in place for a mass-air piggyback. If (*cough* when *cough*) I build another engine for this car or another car, I'll probably dabble into a stand alone system.
The guys that are good say that the EEC can tune a car every bit as well as any standalone. I say BS, but that's probably a debate for another time, when I'll be happy to fill you in on my feelings. The fact of the matter is that an EEC is good enough for most applications. Plus, it's affordable, cheaper, and it's already installed and ready to go.
Yea, that thing was on there GOOD. I ended up just using a hacksaw to chop the bolt off. I was able to break loose the nuts that had the Loc-Tite on them, but they still did not want to spin off. It ended up being easier to just cut it off, haha. Red Loc-Tite is SERIOUS. I probably would have been safe with it, but then again, why risk it?
Maybe it would have been fine, but then there's always that chance, the consequences of which could be catastrophic.
Thanks for the info, Rick! I'll look into that.
I've read good things about the AEM units, too. I recommend that you look in the accuracy testing that has been done in a couple of magazines. If you need help finding it through google, let me know.