Engine Nippon-Denso 6P148A A/C Compressor Reseal

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Hardware. Most likely you can use what you have. If you’ve painted or powdercoated the housing you might want new bolts.

manifolds:
M8 x 1.25 x 20mm Allen head - 4 bolts

Body:
M8 x 1.25 x 147mm Allen Head - 6 bolts


The body bolts are an odd size. You won’t find equivalent 147mm long bolts and I couldn’t find 145mm. 150mm are a tad long and bottom out, but what I ended up doing was threading an M8 nut on and cutting 3-4mm off the bolt and then cleaning up the thread.

I went stainless of course
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Refrigerant oil:

F7D2F30F-D296-4A24-9D48-39BC3F73147D.jpeg


If you’ll notice, the system capacity is 10 ounces (8 ounces for 89+) and a new reman compressor ships with 10. There is a procedure for avoiding overcharging the oil.

if you are building a totally new system this is easy as you just fill per the directions above. If you are resealing the compressor only, you need to measure prior to disassembling.

As to what fluid yo use, that all depends on what you are doing. if you are resealing the compressor, we have to assume it will be cleaned well enough to be rid of all mineral oil other than trace amounts. Mineral oil is not compatible with r134a as the refrigerant won’t circulate it. Trace amounts are fine, it will just settle to a low point in the system and remain there.

if you have a brand new system free of mineral oil, use PAG with 134a. If you system is not new and you are mixing 134a with an unknown amount of mineral oil, use POE oil.

if you are still using R12 use the Ford spec paraffin mineral oil. YN-9 which was superceeded by YN-9A
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
About to start reassembly. Honestly, if you’ve taken it apart, you can likely figure out how to get it back together. It’s not overly complicated as you are just replacing the three main o-rings and the two valve plate seals.

shaft seal is a little tricky, but luckily there is a video. Pay attention to the first half of the video as this is the style in the 6P compressor


View: https://youtu.be/sh-KIjAqh-A


I will update with pics of reassembly shortly, but like I said, if you’ve made it this far you are likely able to reassemble without too much issue
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Reassembly time. I cleaned the internals with a clean lint-free rag and oil. You'll want to pay attention to the various surfaces the O-rings seal against and identify potential trouble areas.
87E340F8-476C-4F79-BEE2-19049B2CBA1F.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
First you'll need to reassemble the pistons. Easy way to do this is to put lubricant all over the balls. Once properly lubed, they will stick to the piston socket and the guide plates pretty easily and stay in place.

D1FB31AD-4029-463C-AAE5-66D90EF66A84.jpeg


You'll want to lubricate the piston seals. as well as the bearing plates on the swash plate shaft. The next part is tricky, but you'll need to assemble all 3 pistons onto the swash plate, and then insert them down into the REAR housing half.

Once assembled like below, continue to lubricate various contact points.

C493803C-7EDF-4184-87F0-9385E4EE3A1E.jpeg
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Assembly of rear valve plate.

Position the housing similar to this view. Now is a good time to add lube to that bearing, as well as inside the piston bores.
517B949F-377F-4A3D-8635-34AEC9B1FB61.jpeg



The rear valve plate is marked with a letter "R". It consists of a thin plate, and a thicker plate with two rockers. You shouldn't have to disassemble the rockers at all. Lubricate the o ring as well as lube the thin plate and install as shown. The fingers will align with some machined pockets in the body as shown. There are two pins that you removed earlier than need to be reinstalled to align everything. Ensure no oil is in the pin bores as this will prevent the pins from fitting down into their bores all the way. Use a cloth to soak up the excess oil here.

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Thicker valve plate then installs like shown
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Install new gasket from your rebuild kit. I installed it dry here for this photo, but i rubbed lubricant on both sides of the gasket before install.

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FInally, align the rear cover and install. Tap in place with a rubber or dead blow mallet.

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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Flip it over and position it with the shaft upwards to install the front valve plate, which is marked with an "F".

Use this opportunity to lubricate the shaft bearing and the piston bores
BCA5CE54-5D20-4454-91E7-F85EF35BE459.jpeg



As before, separate the valve body and position the thin plate as show, with the alignment dowel pins in place. You can see how the "fingers" on the valve plate align with machined pockets in the body.
AC84C7C0-6DD2-4EBD-8CA9-DADB86189AB9.jpeg


Finally, install the thicker valve plate with the rockers, the O-ring and the outer seal
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Now to apply the wick back into the front cover. Simple insert the wick into the metal retainer.
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Slide the circular part into the hole and belt the tab down like shown. Try not to protrude too far into the interior portion of the housing
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Next up is theshaft seal. There is a video for this in post #23. This would be the first seal version in the video.

Lubricate the compressor shaft. Make sure you are wearing gloves here (you should have been all along). Slide the internal shaft seal down. The shaft has two flats on it that align to flats on the seal. Make sure the seal engages these. ITS VERY EASY TO THINK ITS DOWN FAR ENOUGH WHEN IT"S NOT.

Once install, apply lube to the top seal. This will seat against the other seal.

1CF7848B-1C2B-4CBE-BBEF-4CF3007A4359.jpeg


The other seal does have an alignment feature that does mate up with the tool (OTC T81P-19623-OH).
AFE456BE-4EC2-4264-AB78-86A015B64DFB.jpeg


Lubricate the O-ring throroughly. Once enough lube is applied, you are able to press the seal into the housing by hand. No need to hammer it in place. Make sure you press the seal in evenly and ensure none of the o-ring got pinched on the side
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Install the front cover onto the compressor. You want to make sure the shaft key is not installed yet, to avoid damaging the seal as you install. Use plenty of lube
ABE6D8C3-5992-4B7B-B2B7-8B190697DD72.jpeg


The rebuild kit comes with new brass washers. Install them on your bolts and torque to 18-19 ft-lbs.
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Compressor is done. Manifold installation is pretty straightforward. I'll detail in later posts. I still need to install the shaft key and the compressor clutch, and am looking for a method to pressure/vacuum test the compressor before install. There is a leak test procedure outlined in the service manual, but it doesn't tell you details.

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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
37,338
13,172
224
Massachusetts
Some closing actions.

manifolda installed, all bolts torqued to 18-19 ft-lbs.

New clutch coil, pulley and clutch disk installed. There are plenty of writeups on replacing the ac clutch. There is a c-clip that holds the coil and pulley on. You should be able to reuse your spacer for the outer disk from your old clutch. If you need this hardware, rockaito sells it as ac clutch hardware. Should be 2 c clips, a few spacers and a nut/locknut.

best way to install the shaft key is to install the clutch outer disk on the shaft. There is a slot for the shaft key. Align the key and use a punch and a dead blow to drive the key in. Make sure you go flush to the shaft lip so you can install the clutch disk shim in between the shaft and disk.

Proper clutch air gap procedure is in the service manual pdf at the beginning of this thread. Refer to it for gap setting procedure.

compressor shaft nut torque is 10-14 ft-lbs.

After torquing, you’ll want to rotate the clutch around and check the gap in 3 spots. Your smallest air gap needs to be set to 0.021-0.036” of gap at the smallest of the 3 spots you check

79E2A162-4E5F-4BEB-AC67-472164D9DF3A.jpeg


I do want to perform a leak test on this first, but I need a method. I will update further if I discover a good method
 
Last edited:

nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
10 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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First you'll need to reassemble the pistons. Easy way to do this is to put lubricant all over the balls. Once properly lubed, they will stick to the piston socket and the guide plates pretty easily and stay in place.

D1FB31AD-4029-463C-AAE5-66D90EF66A84.jpeg


You'll want to lubricate the piston seals. as well as the bearing plates on the swash plate shaft. The next part is tricky, but you'll need to assemble all 3 pistons onto the swash plate, and then insert them down into the REAR housing half.

Once assembled like below, continue to lubricate various contact points.

C493803C-7EDF-4184-87F0-9385E4EE3A1E.jpeg
Ok penetration c.t. Is cool,but lube all over balls , now that's a CT man...
 
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