No spark, no start, have searched and ran thru checklist several times

[MotiV8ed_95GT]

Hello all, I posted about this problem several weeks ago, and I have yet to remedy it.

Background: 89 GT 5spd basically stock. stock ignition
New parts: TFI, Coil, recent distributor
The problem: Car will not start. Occasionally it will fire up and run fine for anywhere from 5-20 minutes, then it just dies either sitting there idling or driving. No stumbling or sputtering, it just dies like you turned off the key. Sometime it will refire after 5-10 tries. Otherwise just cranks with no attempt to start. Coil has power and "pulses" while cranking. All fuse links have power on both sides, fuel pump primes just fine. When I pull the coil wire off the distributor and hold it to the block whle cranking it im getting no spark. I have ran through jrichker's checklist but I can not seem to find what is wrong. I thought for sure it was the TFI but replacing that did not fix it. Any help or suggestions are welcome. I am stumped . If you are in the Baltimore area and want to come by and take a look I'll buy you a case of beer of your choice.

Thanks!
Ross

 

[nmcgrawj]

Got anyone close to swap out the computer with?

 

[MotiV8ed_95GT]

Slight update, I found my code scanner and it is giving me a code 14, which is "Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall." This seems to go along with the problem I am having. Is there a way to test the PIP? Is it likely this is the cause of my problem?

Thanks
Ross

 

[jrichker]

I would recommend that you put a test lamp in place of the coil when you have the no spark condition. The lamp would have power from the red/green ignition wire and ground from the dark green/yellow wire on the TFI.

Check the TFI for 12 volts at the red/blue & red/green wires while cranking.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

ttp://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

 

[nmcgrawj]

Isnt the PIP in the dizzy? Isnt that dizzy new or recently replaced? If its not new, i'd drop a brand new one in.....

 

[jrichker]

Slight update, I found my code scanner and it is giving me a code 14, which is "Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall." This seems to go along with the problem I am having. Is there a way to test the PIP? Is it likely this is the cause of my problem?

Thanks
Ross

If the pip dies, then the symptoms are the same as your description. The process I described can be used to test the pip, but are not the best for that purpose. You would need an oscilloscope to veiw the pip waveform to be sure. A shop that has a distributor test machine could check the pip, but it probably wouldn't be free or cheap.

Pip replacement requires removal of the distributor & pressing the gear off so that the shutter wheel can be removed. Many guys just swap out the distributor for a reman unit instead of replacing the pip.

 

[HISSIN50]

One should be able to check for injector pulsing (when no spark exists) to test the PIP as well. If there's injector pulsing but no spark, the PIP would indicate to be ok (and the issue is the TFI, coil, or other another issue).

If both (injector pulsing and spark) are AWOL, the PIP is quite likely.

Some reman'd dizzies dont get a new PIP when being rebuilt. The factories are often too lazy to seat the pin back in the original hole. When buying a reman'd dizzy, if there's no extra roll pin hole, that can suggest the PIP was not swapped.

Good luck.

 

[MotiV8ed_95GT]

Coincidentally my friend just got a brand new hydraulic press, so I went ahead and replaced the pickup(PIP) It was pretty easy and only took about a half hour or so. Fired right up on the first try. I am crossing my fingers and hoping this actually fixed it. I went for a short drive and let the car idle in the driveway for a while with no problems. Thanks for the help and I will post again if I have any updates on this. The pickup was only 18 bucks, much cheaper than a new dizzy.

Thanks Stangnet!
Ross

 

[DEFWISH]

hmm. i though with the pip removed it would just go back to base timing

 

[HISSIN50]

hmm. i though with the pip removed it would just go back to base timing

The PIP is responsible for base timing (for injectors and spark). Without it, the car wont start or run.

You might be thinking of the SPOUT connector (when it's removed, the computer doesnt advance timing).