Oil Leak from Distributor help?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by rdneckprep, Nov 3, 2011.

  1. i have a 95 gt 306 and i have noticed that i have a oil leak at the distributor its not a bad leak but mild, and it only shows oil when i drive it hard. i've trying looking it up and looked though some forums but nothing really helping me. any thoughts would help thanks
  2. That's a new one. The distributor gear should connect to the oil pump shaft. Only thing I think of is if the distributor isn't seated all the way down. Maybe the oil pump shaft isn't the proper size (too long).
  3. i've read that the distributor has a o-ring/seal type deal on it so once i get back from afghanistan ill check it out. just trying to figure out possibilities you know thanks ffor the thought ill keep that in mind also.:nice:
  4. Yes, there is an O-ring seal on the distributor that seats to the block. You have to pull the distributor fully out to change it.
  5. I have a stack of those O-rings on my pegboard. If you pm me a mailing address, I'll save you a trip to the parts store and have it waiting on you when you get home.

  6. Kurt thanks and PM sent.:nice:

    Now how hard is it going to be to take the distributor out and replace the o-ring and is there anything i should be careful to mind, keep in mind or anything of the sort. never messed with 5.0 engine before this is my first owned 5.0 always had 4.6 and they are a pain.

    Once again thanks for the help, anyone in the Fort Knox area or in ky
  7. It's really easy to do, but you should set the timing afterwards. Clean off the bottom of the distributer and the block where it meets it with a rag and some degreaser. Take some whiteout, and mark a line across the bottom of the distributer onto the block in a visible area. The line will help you line the distributer back up when you put it in. Then pull the distributer cap off and just set it up on the intake or something like that. You should be able to do it without even removing the wires. Use the white out again to mark where the rotor is pointing on the edge of the distributer. Unplug the wiring harness to the distributer. There is one 1/2" bolt on the hold down, you have to remove on the hold down and the distributer pulls out. You'll probably have to jiggle it a little. The O-ring is on the bottom the distributer casting. Change the O-ring and clean it out. When you push the distributer back down in, you have to point the rotor to the left of where the mark is, because it will rotate to the right when you push it back in. Line everything up with your marks, and bolt it back down. You should retime the engine after you do this, but if you don't have a timing light, it will be close enough. I find that the white out method gets it real close.

  8. Sweet thanks man i'll saved this for when i get back i can knock it out hopefully without screwing it up to bad
  9. Yep do just like Kurt said and you'll be fine. If by any chance you do have to tweek the timing a bit just remember to pull the spout connector before you you start adjusting the dizzy. If you dont know what it is then its the little grey plastic plug on part of your wiring harness by your air filter/maf.
  10. thanks i hope i can do it, i might play it safe and go to the do it yourself shop on post since they have all the tools/gear and technician on hand so if i think i did something wrong i can go ask for help......if pride doesnt get in the way
  11. Oh yea the hobby shops. That was the good thing about living on base. Now im stationed at an I&I in KCMO, but I have no help here. I am Motor T though so I have access to all the tools and a lift. :D
  12. I&I ? well at least u have tools and lift u can use right
  13. Thanks for the like! Yep I have all the tools I need for the most part. I&I is the technical way of saying an "active duty personel who trains reservists" in the marine corps.