Ok Found my Stang

cup1981

New Member
Aug 22, 2005
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Hey guy's, as some may recall I posted a few weeks ago about buying a rebuilt 302 Flat Tappet Engine...Well I just found my mustang, Its an 86 GT (Blah I hate the 4 eyes, but I will do a front clip swap). It already has the 5.0 HO in it, but it doesnt run due to a lack of ignition system and intake. I have an intake coming from Ebay, hopefully by Monday, what I am wondering is should I just keep the motor in it and try to get it running or shall I put this 302 flat tappet motor in it. I would hate to get rid of this flat tappet cause it only has 10k on it and I have put LOADS of time into prep work (painting and cleaning), but I see that there is about a 75 - 90 HP difference between the two. What do you guys think I should do here!!!???

FYI The guy only wants $200 for it and all it needs is painted cause it is all primer... :nice:
 
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Damn, nevermind it's not a true GT it is a V8 swap w/ a non H.O. motor in it so I will just go w/ mine then!! It still has the 4cyl rear in it too, not too sure if I will swap that or not :shrug:
 
why ya hatin' on the four eyed crowd?? damn....

anyway, yes the rear will swap...for $200, if it's a straight rust free car with minimal or no issues snag it...

but wait, nevermind, you don't like the four eyed cars...
 
txstang84 said:
why ya hatin' on the four eyed crowd?? damn....

anyway, yes the rear will swap...for $200, if it's a straight rust free car with minimal or no issues snag it...

but wait, nevermind, you don't like the four eyed cars...

Haha...I knew I was gonna get flamed for that, I was actually just kidding about not liking the Four Eyes!! I bought it on saturday and towed it to my shop. It has NO rust no dents dings or anything, itk just looks ugly cause it was getting ready to be painted and they gave up on it so it has been sitting for a year and the primer started coming off. It has a huge fiberglass cowl hood on it that is in pretty bad shape, but if I dont feel like fixing it I do have the stock hood.

I am starting on it as soon as I get an open bay in my shop, I just need an intake. I have the throttle body from the lincoln 5.0 so I may start with that just to get it running, but I also have an HO intake coming, but I am probably just going to sell that (shameless Plug!!!).

It definately is going to take a while, cause it was a drag car so it has some wiring issues to deal with. Oh ya..lol...it also had a nest of about 100 wasps that I had to fight off yesterday.

Once again I was just kidding about hating the 4 Eyes!! Please dont flame me too bad..haha. :nice: :banana: :cheers:

Oh ya and I got the kid to come down to $175 too...what a deal!!!
 
By the way does anyone know the HP on a flat tappet 302 from an 84 lincoln Towncar w/ smog pump delete, A/C delete and headers w/ straight duals (no Cats)?
 
RsStanG1987 said:
SnAP sounds like you should find a new motor.

haha, ya if I had the money for a new motor I would, I will just build this one as I go. It only has 10 K since it was rebuilt. I can get this thing up to the HP I am looking to get.
 
QDRHRSE said:
You could buy a used 87-93 long block for a lot less than it would take to get the other motor up to snuff.
:stupid: Id say junk that motor it was rebuilt once and has 10k since the rebuild. That thing isnt gonna hold up that much longer. Id say find a 5.0 roller from an 87-89 and run with that you will spend less on it and get better HP numbers then the motor you haqve now.
 
RsStanG1987 said:
:stupid: Id say junk that motor it was rebuilt once and has 10k since the rebuild. That thing isnt gonna hold up that much longer. Id say find a 5.0 roller from an 87-89 and run with that you will spend less on it and get better HP numbers then the motor you haqve now.

10,000 miles is barely broken in. If it was rebuilt right, and is taken care of, it will last just as long as any other 5.0. As far as the whole H.O./Roller cam thing, just remember that people were making killer power with Flat Tappets long before Hydraulic Rollers were in some engineers wet dream. Unless you are dead set on a Fuelie motor, it would prolly be easier to go carbed, and flat cams are are cheap too. You've gat a car and a motor, so put 'em together! :)

Oh yeah, if that Linc motor still has the D8 heads on it, you can pick up GT40 or P's off an Exploder for $200-$400, or E7's practically free.
 
95GTAODE said:
10,000 miles is barely broken in. If it was rebuilt right, and is taken care of, it will last just as long as any other 5.0. As far as the whole H.O./Roller cam thing, just remember that people were making killer power with Flat Tappets long before Hydraulic Rollers were in some engineers wet dream. Unless you are dead set on a Fuelie motor, it would prolly be easier to go carbed, and flat cams are are cheap too. You've gat a car and a motor, so put 'em together! :)

Oh yeah, if that Linc motor still has the D8 heads on it, you can pick up GT40 or P's off an Exploder for $200-$400, or E7's practically free.

Yeah, I am definately going carb. I am with you on the fact that serious HP #'s can be ran from a Flat Tappet motor. It still has the D8 heads on it, I am looking into GT40's, but that will come at a later date. This Motor was rebuilt at the dealership so I would assume it waws built correctly, and it hauled that Lincoln around quite well, I left a nice strip outside of my shop w/ it before I yanked the motor out of it. The guy I bought this from has a blown up H.O. that has all the parts I would need to convert it, but he builds mustangs for a living and said that he has run flat tappets in many mustangs and he has had some mjor HP coming out of them.

I am definately not going H.O. also because 9 out of 10 H.O.'s have been thouroughly beaten to death and I dont want someone elses problems.. :nono:
 
Okay motor is in now, and it is running. The only problem is that I am stuck with a 2 barrell from a 68 stang w/ a 289and the intake from it. I found once I put it up it had no drive shaft and the drivers rear floor pans are rotten. Also, it has a few elect problems, I eliminated many of them by going carburated, the ignition in the car doesn't work and the neutral safety switch needs hot wired cause it was a 5 speed.
 
More than likely the neutral safety is your problem. Either by- pass it or get it hooked up right and the ignition will probably work.

If it is the ignition switch, they are cheap and easy to replace, but you need to figure out if it's the switch or if it's missing or has the the wrong trigger wire on the starter relay.

Get a ds from the wreckers, and while you're there look for a 4v carb and intake from an older F150 or '83-'85 stang if you can find one. That' the best way for fore power while you're collecting the $$$ for better stuff.
 
you could probably find a decent intake on ebay for $150 or even less...if the car has that many wiring issues, then maybe you could peruse your local salvage yard and pick one up for fairly cheap...

the red wire with the blue stripe is your "magic" wire, it runs all over under the dash (for the clutch safety switch), the nuetral switch, and then finally to the starter solenoid. if you want to, you can just splice it together, and run it straight from the ign switch to the solenoid.
 
txstang84 said:
you could probably find a decent intake on ebay for $150 or even less...if the car has that many wiring issues, then maybe you could peruse your local salvage yard and pick one up for fairly cheap...

the red wire with the blue stripe is your "magic" wire, it runs all over under the dash (for the clutch safety switch), the nuetral switch, and then finally to the starter solenoid. if you want to, you can just splice it together, and run it straight from the ign switch to the solenoid.

Ha! I was having a brain fart and couldn't remember the wire colour. Pretty sad considering I had to rewire pretty much everything in my '79. :hail2:
 
Ya, I found wires in the column to splice into one white w/ red stripe and another blue w/ red stripe. Now the ignition works great. All I need now is a driveshaft, gear shifter, the floor boards welded and braced w/ some iron rods, and timed then I will be able to at least drive it. The 4 barrel will come ASAP.
 
I've had a fair amount of experience playing with the wiring in my '84 as well...

I recently moved all of the start/charge/ignition circuit over to the drivers side and removed all the unnecessary wires...

now, I just have to get it ready to plug in the FI harness when I swap to that...yippee, hours of fun with a multimeter and a few beers