Old Enduro owners (Hence,JT,Grady)

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
2
39
Parkesburg, PA
Damn bike is giving me issues. Was using my battery jumper box and had lights and elect. start. Well it died so I switced to a elect. charger it was sparking at the clamps so I decided to wait my dad came out and said to put it back on. Well we lost everything no lights no elect start. I charged up my jumper box and got a new spark plug hooked the jumper box up and it fried the battery wires melted the insulation right off. Ran new wires got a new battery for a dealer so I was sure to have the right one and I still have nothing. When I touched the ground to the new battery it was sparking pretty good at first but that has died down any ideas on where I should look? I have a bad feeling I did something to the starter switch (#32 in the pic) Anybody know of a way to check it? Also it says here in this pic I should have a fuse holder where is it located? In the pic it looks like under the bike but I don't see it Hell I don't have any other wires coming off the hot side of the battery besides the main one going to the starter switch thing


View attachment 474981

Please help me out guys. I have to prove everybody wrong that I'll get this thing running again

And to top it off I'm gonna be starting to work on my dad's old Honda its like a '70 175 road bike. He said If i want to ride on the road thats the one to fix first. Its been in our shed so it shouldn't be too messed up
 
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Jinx, as an FYI (to take what I say with a grain of crap) I've never actually owned an Enduro - just pure street bikes.

The sparking and short that occurred would be worrysome. I would trace the wires and look for issues/shorts. Even if the old battery was what had the internal short, the fact that smoke escaped (smoke isnt allowed to escape. LOL) would make me wonder if the initial issue created a short elsewhere (fuses on old bikes, or the lack of, is an issue).

I have the feeling you might rewire some of the bike (my first bike - a '78 XS 750, required me to do this. I bought a nice fuse box and did it right).

Also, I dont know about those old bikes, but be careful with battery chargers. For many bikes, you dont want to use anything more than about the 2 amp scale (setting a charger to 10 amps for instance, and allowing it to draw 4-6 amps, is bad).

I bet Hence or Grady can help. If they dont happen to see the thread, have you found any forums for that old thing? I bet people with one (not me) know the electrical systems like the back of their hand.

Good luck bud. I'll try and chime in when I think I might be able to add something somewhat useful.
Bump.
 
Been so long ago since I had mine.

Is the e system 6 or 12 volts?

I gotta agree with JT about all that sparking not sounding good.

Sounds like wires shorted to each other or shorted to ground like where they may have rubbed on the frame so much they have become bare with no insulation.

Good luck and have some fun with that old Yammer :)

Grady
 
JT: I joined the Yamaha Owners Club forum and posted in there old bike section. Theres at least one guy on there with the same bike as me but nobody answered me. I was actually thinking about rewiring as much as I could if not the whole thing.

Grady: My bike is a 12v system. Thats been a pain in the ass trying to find a battery for that thing. Went to a few auto parts stores and asked and they would ask me 6 or 12v. I'd be like I have no idea you tell me. My mom stoped at Advance one night for me and they told her they had batterys so I called them guy asked the same thing. I said i didn't know so he told me to call a dealer and then get back with them. Called a few places didn't get anybody. Ended up calling the place I orig. talked to about stuff and the guy said they had one there. Ends up from the way I took it some of them were 6 and some were 12. Mines a 12v because of the elect. start.

As for Hence, I PMed him a few days or so ago and got no resopnce so I doubt he'll post in here either. Thats fine I admit if I don't know much about something I tend to be a pain in the ass lol

Gonna try and get the Honda out today maybe If i Can I'll post some pics tonight
 
I'm going to beat my father. Decided to mess with his Honda. Hasn't been road since the early 90's so I knew I'd have to clean the tank. I got 2 things of Yamaha tank cleaner the other day preparing for it. Well he left out there was still a bunch of gas in the tank :mad: :bang: So I loosen the petcock and gas starts dripping. I was like damn theres gas in here. Well I figure not that much probably so I loosen the petcock all the way and it starts pouring out. I grab what ever I can to catch it cause Its still in the shed. First its an old sand castle maker then a big plactic mayo contain the big bulk food ones. Wne its all said and done after dumping th castle maker in the bigger container i got about 5 in give or take of gas. I smell highly of stale gas. Stuff was so dark it looked like piss like after you take meds and it gets real dark :mad: :mad:
 
Well I believe I found my problem on the Yamaha. I go from one thing to another lol I need to go easy on all my projects.

Anyway I believe its the starter switch like I figured. Messed around with a test light and found out the whole case of it was hot(meaning powered). Which is not good cause its grounded and attached right to the frame which was powering the whole damn frame. Took it off the frame and all my lights and stuff started working again.

Now to find out if I can buy a new one.

Heres a couple pics of it

View attachment 474759

View attachment 474761
 
I had a solenoid latch on a bike before. It seems to me that it might be cheaper to retrofit an solenoid from another application (starter solenoids all work almost exactly the same) than to find a good one for your oldie.

BTW, how come you could say petcock[i/]. :D WHen I type something like goodie, it gets filtered, but if you type a pervo word like petcock, it's ok. :rlaugh:
 
JT kinda thought about using another one but wasn't sure if i could. We'll see after I call tomorrow about it and the petcock for the Honda. If its too expensive I'll get something else.

As for the Honda got it out today. Looks pretty damn nice for being in a shed for about 21 years.
Needs a new petcock, fuel lines for sure. Prob change the plugs and fluids and should be good to go

View attachment 474337
 
Make sure and line up the points on the magneto after you get that starter switch issue fixed.

Sorry to rub it in man, but I just got my little 100cc LT2 back up and running, it only has 1188 miles on it... WOW!

Put the new tires on it, adjusted the air, and gas screws, (The gas was shut so only choke would run it)

First few times I couldn't figure out why the damn thing would run only on choke to 100000000000rpms.

The fuel screw was closed, so I opened it, and now it purrrs like a kitten. I broke the forzen clutch loose after a few trip around the block, and now all I need is a trip to the DMV! Woot!

I don't know if I will even get that DT1 fixed now that I have this little 10HP monster on the streets! :rlaugh:

I will post up pics later in the week.

Check out these guys they might help too.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/forum_php/ubbthreads.php?Cat=&PHPSESSID=

And buy this for real concrete detailed stuff if you have the funds.
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/yam25pis19.html
 
MysteryMachine said:
Hence How do I go about doing that?

Gonna be a bitch to get the screws out cause their all bitched up.

And if i have to get a differnt type of switch will any work or is there a certain type I should use?

Well if the mag cover screws are stripped, then you will need to cut a flathead groove into the screw, and then work each of them off. Use pB blaster to ease them out too.

Push comes to shove, I have had to use a damn impact screw driver to get them out. But be carefull around the aluminum.

Here is a pic of the cover.
MARTYN2.jpg



The battery has nothing to do with the ignition.

The point gap is critical, that's why you need to get in the mag cover.

If the point gap is too wide, no spark. Close it down as small as possible to get spark. then adjust to run right.

Clean all the points with a clean emmory cloth, and contact cleaner.

Clean all the connections in the wiring harness, coil,etc.

Be sure to use a new spark plug.

You can test the one source coil with an ohmmeter by disconnecting all connections. It should should show no resistance.

Some very small problem is probably killing the spark.

Step by step, starting with as small a point gap as possible.

Check that the coil is really grounded to the frame, paint on the frame can cause a poor ground.

Oh and most important, make sure the Woodruff key is not a pile of dust. Once these thing shatter into a dozen pieces you can't do anything.

Yamaha Woodruff Key (Half Circle)
25616_opt_110909.jpg
 
Very cool info from Hence. :nice:

His mention of the impact driver is a very good one. When removing pot metal screws in parts of dissimilar metal (galvanic corrosion), the super-hard impact-driver bit and the leverage it affords works wonderfully. I used to strip float bowl screws, for instance, before figuring that out. Also dont forget about using vice grips on the sides of exposed heads for a nasty one. Neverseize, when appropriate, can help for next time.

I cant remember what's wrong with your petcock, but if it's a small leak on a seam, rubbing Lava soap on the leak can temporarily seal it up. I did this often on the ol' 750. As always, be aware of fuel leaks and the risk of spontaneously combusting yourself and all that. :rlaugh:

Seems to me that all of the bike starter solenoids I had were much like the stang solenoid. Battery power, a control wire to tell the solenoid to close, and the output wire to the starter. I have one bike with a latched solenoid and just need to pick up a generic spare solenoid to fix it. Your solenoid might work differently but it doesnt look too different based upon your pic.

Good luck.
 
Well called the shop where I got the battery and the guy was about a Dick. He kept getting smart with me and was like your gonna have this problem with old bikes good luck.

Did find a place online for the petcock one time i looked it said it was like 23 bucks next tiem I looks it was like 39 so I think i'm gonna call to make sure I get the right thing. Beings the plan is to make it road worthy I don't wanna skimp to much on it. The problem is te metal screen thing is toast and I took it apart to see if you can change it so theres gaskets in there that will need to be replaced now. Also its a dual carb bike and when i filled the tank with water it was only dripping out the one line so I think something is messed or clogged where I'm not getting fuel out of both. And this one is like a bolt which is odd from the ones I've seen.


As for the switch thing I'm at the point of saying screw it I'm not spending 90 bucks on that 1 part I might head our to tractor supply and get a cheap one if they have one and see if it works.

Hence that pic shows the oppsite side of where I thought it was lol. Whats on the other side front where it says Yamaha?
 
Looks awsome Hence seems liek if i wanna do it right I'm gonna have to pay the 90 bucks for that stupid thing. The wires coming out of it make it kinda shady. Are the 2 wires coming out of it the wires for the starter switch? Maybe I can use one of the solenoids that we use for wiring up blue light switches.
 
ok got the new part still having spark issues. Sanded the points off they are really close together and I didn't do anything to them. Looked liek I had a VERY small spark at the spark plug like 1 time. Is there a way to check the coil (i guess thats what the round thing is).

And where is that woodruff key located?