Engine Radiator Replacement Questions

[bicknell]

I have a 1992 5.0 LX automatic with a leaking radiator. The car is new to me, so I don't know the entire service history, however the history I do have indicates it was extremely well maintained. I've been doing some research, and this looks like a relatively easy job I can tackle myself, however I have some questions before I get started that a search doesn't find answers to in the archives. The car is 100% stock, and so I'd like as stock a looking radiator as possible. That's also why I'm not interested in an aftermarket trans cooler.

1) The transmission "cooling" lines attach to the radiator. When disconnected, will I need some sort of plug for them or are they high enough up all the fluid has run back down into the transmission?

2) Based on the pictures I can find online the closest looking ones appear to be OSC 556 ($142 at Rock Auto, warranty unknown), Spectra Premium CU556 ($120 at Rock Auto, 2 year warranty), and FVP RAD566 ($102 at Rock Auto, lifetime warranty). From the pictures and part number I'm thinking CJ's Pony Parts RAD5563 ($172) is the FVP radiator. I don't know anything about any of these companies, good or bad, but I'd lean towards the FVP due to the lifetime warranty and that CJ's has picked them. Any feedback is welcome.

3) I did the electrolysis test and it came out good. In the process though I took a good look inside the radiator, and here's a picture. Obviously a lot of build up inside, I'm wondering if this is perfectly normal on a 30 year old radiator or if this is an indication of past or potential future problems. Does this indicate I might need to do some additional flushing of the system as part of this procedure?

4) It's got some sort of green coolant in it now, origin and age unknown. I believe I need to stick with some sort of IAT coolant (e.g. Zerex Original Green). Any other recommendations about coolant type?

5) Should I plan on changing the coolant again at a short interval? That is, will this whole procedure knock loose a bunch of gunk inside the system and it will need a drain and fill in short order?

Thank you in advance for any feedback. This will be my first time doing a radiator so I want to be sure it's done right.

 

[Noobz347]

If this were my radiator, I would call around and find a shop that can refurb the thing. Pull it, and let them clean, flush, and repair as necessary. Then just reinstall your brand new (rebuilt) radiator.

Most of that "gunk" is what happens when tap water is run with the coolant over the years. I don't put anything into the cooling system that is not anti-freeze or distilled water.

Stick with [green] anti-freeze.

I would cap the currently unused transmission lines.

I am not a huge fan of aftermarket radiators and also not a fan of installing aluminum radiators on otherwise OEM engine combos. Some of these other guys, however, will be better at pointing you in the right direction for a replacement if that's what you decide to do.


Give this a look when you have the chance: https://sterling-radiator.business.site/

 

[bicknell]

If this were my radiator, I would call around and find a shop that can refurb the thing. Pull it, and let them clean, flush, and repair as necessary. Then just reinstall your brand new (rebuilt) radiator.

Give this a look when you have the chance: https://sterling-radiator.business.site/

I would love to have it refurbished. Several mechanics in town said the last place doing it was Arlington Armature, when I called them they stopped doing radiator repair about 2 years ago and said the nearest place they knew of was up in Pittsburgh. My "plan", to the extent it was a plan, was to replace it with a new one and then see if I could find someone to ship it off to and refurbish it to reinstall a few months later. I also can't tell exactly where it is leaking in the car, so I don't know how repairable it is. I will check out that place in Sterling though, it's nearby me.

I believe the transmission lines are used on mine, it's an AOD car.

 

[Noobz347]

I believe the transmission lines are used on mine, it's an AOD car.

Rog... I misunderstood. Having caps/plugs on-hand when you pull them is a good idea.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

This thread may interest you....

Upgrades radiator that’s not a 3 core??

My stock radiator has a crack and needs replaced. This is a mostly stock cruiser so I don’t really care to do electric fans or a huge radiator. Is there a decent middle ground? Something better than stock but not a 3 core? Car is a 91 5.0 manual with stock fan and working ac.

stangnet.com

 

[AeroCoupe]

I second getting the original one repaired as the new "stock" replacements are terrible quality wise. If you have any inclination to increase the performance of the car just bite the bullet and put an aluminum unit in it and move on. I use and can recommend a Fluidyne however they are pricey but you get what you pay for. You can find them cheaper than on Fluidyne's site but it has the best info:

FHP30A-93MU 79-93 MUSTANG AUTO RADIATOR - Fluidyne

Upgrade your 79-93 Mustang's cooling system with Fluidyne's FHP30A-93MU Auto Radiator. Enjoy enhanced heat dissipation for optimal engine performance.

www.fluidyne.com

SVE will be one of the cheapest but do some research before you go down the aluminum radiator route. Cheap usually means overseas and the quality tends to not be as good as Americal units made like BeCool, Champion, Cold Case, Fluidyne, Griffin, etc. (pretty sure all of them are still American made). The only other one out of that list I can speak for is Griffin as I run one in my T-Bird.

 

[bicknell]

In my case the car is extremely stock, and I want to keep it that way. 17k miles, and the previous owner kept it in a climate controlled garage. The engine bay and under side look like it just rolled off the factory line. They were a little too far in the "keep everything stock" direction, while it got good fluid changes and such it still had what I believe was the original fan belt. That's why if I have to replace something getting a similar look is somewhat important. The experts can know it was replaced, but the casual looker shouldn't be able to tell. I've also been keeping every part I take off of it, which is very small pile, just in case a future buyer wants that 100% stock back. Maybe I'll sell it to a museum in 20 years!

Anyway, I'm going to check out that local shop that claims to do radiator repair. If they can pull it and re-braise it that would be the best option. I'll then do the vinegar thing to clean out a bunch of the deposits. If the local shop can't do it I think I will buy the cheapest one, swap them, and then look to ship off the original to one of the mail order places that can fix them. That way we can keep enjoying the car and there's no rush on the repair or getting it back in.

I really appreciate all the help!

 

[85GTStangGuy]

SVE will be one of the cheapest but do some research before you go down the aluminum radiator route. Cheap usually means overseas and the quality tends to not be as good as Americal units made like BeCool, Champion, Cold Case, Fluidyne, Griffin, etc. (pretty sure all of them are still American made). The only other one out of that list I can speak for is Griffin as I run one in my T-Bird.

Mishimoto is another brand of aluminum radiators, and they are made exclusively in the good ole USA.

 

[Noobz347]

Anyway, I'm going to check out that local shop that claims to do radiator repair. If they can pull it and re-braise it that would be the best option. I'll then do the vinegar thing to clean out a bunch of the deposits. If the local shop can't do it I think I will buy the cheapest one, swap them, and then look to ship off the original to one of the mail order places that can fix them. That way we can keep enjoying the car and there's no rush on the repair or getting it back in.

If the shop does it, you shouldn't have to do anything. It should come back looking like brand new.

 

[Mindseye007]

I have a 1992 5.0 LX automatic with a leaking radiator. The car is new to me, so I don't know the entire service history, however the history I do have indicates it was extremely well maintained. I've been doing some research, and this looks like a relatively easy job I can tackle myself, however I have some questions before I get started that a search doesn't find answers to in the archives. The car is 100% stock, and so I'd like as stock a looking radiator as possible. That's also why I'm not interested in an aftermarket trans cooler.

1) The transmission "cooling" lines attach to the radiator. When disconnected, will I need some sort of plug for them or are they high enough up all the fluid has run back down into the transmission?

2) Based on the pictures I can find online the closest looking ones appear to be OSC 556 ($142 at Rock Auto, warranty unknown), Spectra Premium CU556 ($120 at Rock Auto, 2 year warranty), and FVP RAD566 ($102 at Rock Auto, lifetime warranty). From the pictures and part number I'm thinking CJ's Pony Parts RAD5563 ($172) is the FVP radiator. I don't know anything about any of these companies, good or bad, but I'd lean towards the FVP due to the lifetime warranty and that CJ's has picked them. Any feedback is welcome.

3) I did the electrolysis test and it came out good. In the process though I took a good look inside the radiator, and here's a picture. Obviously a lot of build up inside, I'm wondering if this is perfectly normal on a 30 year old radiator or if this is an indication of past or potential future problems. Does this indicate I might need to do some additional flushing of the system as part of this procedure?

4) It's got some sort of green coolant in it now, origin and age unknown. I believe I need to stick with some sort of IAT coolant (e.g. Zerex Original Green). Any other recommendations about coolant type?

5) Should I plan on changing the coolant again at a short interval? That is, will this whole procedure knock loose a bunch of gunk inside the system and it will need a drain and fill in short order?

Thank you in advance for any feedback. This will be my first time doing a radiator so I want to be sure it's done right.

Check this out at LMR

https://lmr.com/item/FHP-20A93MU/79-93-Fluidyne-50L-Automatic-Mustang-Aluminum-Radiator