I want to get a roll bar,and keep my back seats!How much are they,and how much is it to get installed?Any help would be great!Thanks
Roll Bars for daily drivers
- Thread starter willys1
- Start date
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Come on guys,I know some of you have roll bars.I really want a chrome roll bar,with the swing away bar at the doors!
88stangmangt
Active Member
ya me too there not hard to put in. M&M has them and you can kep your backseat too! they also have swing out door bars.
cardudeusa
Founding Member
mike keirstead
New Member
Hey I have an 8-point cage in my car. I drive it on the street everyday. The back seat is still in the car and it is still used. You just have to climb in. I have SWINGOUTS on the door bars and they are very useful.
I love my cage and after a while you won't even no it's there.
I installed it myself so I don't the cost of install. But I do know it's a big job. The interior has to come out and go back in after the cage is installed.
I have heard that the cost of the install is always more than the cage itself. You may want to find some one who can weld and will work FOR BEER.
I love my cage and after a while you won't even no it's there.
I installed it myself so I don't the cost of install. But I do know it's a big job. The interior has to come out and go back in after the cage is installed.
I have heard that the cost of the install is always more than the cage itself. You may want to find some one who can weld and will work FOR BEER.
MadMatt5oh
Member
mike I have heard that the cost of the install is always more than the cage itself. You may want to find some one who can weld and will work FOR BEER.[/QUOTE said:And many a house painted, a car repaired or even a settle scored just for beer
wildstanggt
New Member
what do you think it would cost to weld the cage in if I removed all the carpet and seats myself prior to the welding and then replaced all the carpet and stuff after the job. In other words what would the cost be of just welding a pre-fitted cage in?
thanks
thanks
LOL,yea,yea,but mike lives in canada,all I have is lame american beer.Hell there Budwieser is stronger then ours!
MadMatt5oh
Member
Just tell him you have Molson triple X in the garage fridge. He'll settle for Zima by the time he gets to New Jersey 
**LOL, Come on! your ****ing up my thread !!MadMatt5oh said:Just tell him you have Molson triple X in the garage fridge. He'll settle for Zima by the time he gets to New Jersey
MadMatt5oh
Member
TheFleshRocket
Founding Member
I like the idea of a roll cage. Having a convertible makes chassis stiffness more of an issue that it does for you hardtop guys. I've got a strut-tower brace, k-member brace, and full-length subframe connectors on the way, hopefully installed by next weekend. So I'm curious on the initial cost as well as installation. I don't mind doing the labor personally, though.
TheFleshRocket
Founding Member
Do not weld it yourself unless you'd bet your life on your welding skills. Use only MIG or TIG welds and DOM or CrMoly materials. One bar breaking loose in an accident can kill you instantly. Never put someone in the back seat if you have a roll bar or cage. PERIOD. All the padding in the world won't save someone in the backseat from severe injuries when their soft tissues stretch and connect with tubing. Here are my recommendations if you are planning on running a roll bar or cage:
1. Get 5pt SFI-approved 3" harnesses (RCI, Simpson, Sparco, G-Force, and others make approved harnesses). The stock belts will not keep you in place during an accident. Even 5pt harnesses stretch during impact and you can still hit your head. The human spinal column and soft tissues can stretch a LOT in an accident. Never run a roll bar or cage with stock seatbelts. You need at least a 5pt harness. Do not use a Y-type shoulder harness as these have shown to discourage balanced distribution across the torso in a collision which can lead to severe neck and spinal injuries.
2. A fixed upright FIA-approved seat. Corbeau Forzas are very popular as are Recaros and Sparco seats. Look for the FIA-approved or Homologation certification. That means the seats are tested to withstand impact forces. OE seats flex TOO much and the folding seatback and sliding mounts can very easily fail in a collision.
3. Use FIA-approved roll bar padding. http://www.rollbarpadding.com sells the best FIA-approved padding I know of. The "water pipe insulation" that most speed shops sell does absolutely jack **** to protect you in a crash. You need FIA-approved padding to absorb the majority of the energy transmitted if you do connect with a bar.
4. Use an adjustable seat brace that connects to the harness bar and make sure it is firmly attached to the seat back. This will discourage belt stretch due to seat flex in an accident and secure the seat to the roll bar or cage if the primary mounts fail. The seat mounts should use at least four Grade 8 Bolts and ideally should attache to the roll bar and frame.
Most certified welders/chassis builders charge at least $70 per point. If they have to strip the car, it can get expensive really fast (try upwards of $2000).
1. Get 5pt SFI-approved 3" harnesses (RCI, Simpson, Sparco, G-Force, and others make approved harnesses). The stock belts will not keep you in place during an accident. Even 5pt harnesses stretch during impact and you can still hit your head. The human spinal column and soft tissues can stretch a LOT in an accident. Never run a roll bar or cage with stock seatbelts. You need at least a 5pt harness. Do not use a Y-type shoulder harness as these have shown to discourage balanced distribution across the torso in a collision which can lead to severe neck and spinal injuries.
2. A fixed upright FIA-approved seat. Corbeau Forzas are very popular as are Recaros and Sparco seats. Look for the FIA-approved or Homologation certification. That means the seats are tested to withstand impact forces. OE seats flex TOO much and the folding seatback and sliding mounts can very easily fail in a collision.
3. Use FIA-approved roll bar padding. http://www.rollbarpadding.com sells the best FIA-approved padding I know of. The "water pipe insulation" that most speed shops sell does absolutely jack **** to protect you in a crash. You need FIA-approved padding to absorb the majority of the energy transmitted if you do connect with a bar.
4. Use an adjustable seat brace that connects to the harness bar and make sure it is firmly attached to the seat back. This will discourage belt stretch due to seat flex in an accident and secure the seat to the roll bar or cage if the primary mounts fail. The seat mounts should use at least four Grade 8 Bolts and ideally should attache to the roll bar and frame.
Most certified welders/chassis builders charge at least $70 per point. If they have to strip the car, it can get expensive really fast (try upwards of $2000).
