I've been having trouble with my rockers the setup is as follows: Heads machined for 7/16 studs, 1.6 roller rockers, hardened pushrods, comp cams, guide plates, stock hydraulic lifters.
I know the "plain" way of doing this is tightening the rockers until the pushrods start to tighten (by turning them with your fingers) and then turn the rocker nut by 1/4 or 1/2 turn and lock into place and ZERO valve lash.
My problem is that I'll either end up with a loose valvetrain which ticks like a diesel (and not run properly since the valve timing is off) or one or two valves stay open causing my engine to run on 6 or 7 cylinders. Good thing I can remove my valve covers WITHOUT having to remove the upper intake.
I went and got a dial gauge and magnetic base so I can adjust the lifter preload properly, I'm not sure what the preload should be; is it .020??? Or should I put the dial on the valve to watch and make sure the valve doesn't move while I attempt at turning the rocker nut 1/4 or 1/2 turn? The lifters will be charged since the engine would have run a couple of minutes prior to removing the valve covers.
I know the "plain" way of doing this is tightening the rockers until the pushrods start to tighten (by turning them with your fingers) and then turn the rocker nut by 1/4 or 1/2 turn and lock into place and ZERO valve lash.
My problem is that I'll either end up with a loose valvetrain which ticks like a diesel (and not run properly since the valve timing is off) or one or two valves stay open causing my engine to run on 6 or 7 cylinders. Good thing I can remove my valve covers WITHOUT having to remove the upper intake.
I went and got a dial gauge and magnetic base so I can adjust the lifter preload properly, I'm not sure what the preload should be; is it .020??? Or should I put the dial on the valve to watch and make sure the valve doesn't move while I attempt at turning the rocker nut 1/4 or 1/2 turn? The lifters will be charged since the engine would have run a couple of minutes prior to removing the valve covers.