Smog pump removal, FMS A/C Delete. New belt routing idea.

[5LugFoxFanatic]

I am about to do the no smog pump and FMS A/C bracket moving the PS pump up. I have been looking at the diagrams on the net to do the short belt, with multiple people saying multiple belt sizes to do this mod. I had a friend do this and say that the belt rubbed on itself when it went from the water pump to the alternator. So after getting a written description from a guy on the corral, I drew this up. Sorry about the crappy MS Paint (my ms paint skills rock BTW) but would it not make more sense to have the belt go this way? It looks like it will make more contact with the water pump as opposed to the 70.5 short belt way. And the way I drew up follows more of the stock routing uh, route. What do you guys think?
Also, what is involved in removing the A/C? Remove the condenser in front of the radiator, remove the A/C compressor, disconnect lines. I am not going to open the dash up and mess with the heater core. What else do I need to do? Cap the lines? Anything else need removing?

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[RaceDvr50]

Out of curiousity, why do you want to relocate the PS?

 

[5LugFoxFanatic]

The FMS kit reomves the A/C and uses a special bracket that relocates it to where the A/C once was. I dunno why, but I am not going to "blaze my own trail" and try a different way. Ford spends Billions on R&D, and if they say this is correct, I'm not going to doubt them.

 

[RaceDvr50]

I believe they also offer an idler pulley that just replaces the compressor just like they do for the smog pump. Not dogging you just curious. I run at the track yet I left my A/C in, without the clutch engaged it takes almost nothing to turn it.

 

[5LugFoxFanatic]

I know without the AC on it just freewheels and does not suck up any power. I am not doing this for a power gain. I want this stuff gone because my A/C has never worked, and I drive the car so little, I could care less. A little bit is for the weight. Why keep stuff in the car when it is not used. I think with the A/C and smog removal, I will free up 30-50 pounds? But the main reason is the uncluttering of the engine bay, and make things easier to get to. If I had no smog and no AC to deal with, my Longtube header install would have been way smoother.

 

[RaceDvr50]

Ok got ya. Well I don't see a problem with your routing, have you tried it both ways? Just curious because the realative position of the belt going around the water pump and the belt going between the alt and the P/S hasn't changed between the two so the only advantage would be if the tensioner didn't swing as far down with the second routing. Also if you have is the tensioner within its working range?

 

[5LugFoxFanatic]

I have not tried it yet. All of my stuff is still on the car. This is what some people are saying though, how it may rub. How do I check to see if the tensioner is working to it's fullest?

http://www.tcstangs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37739

 

[RaceDvr50]

The front of the tensioner has a plate on it with some markings to show its working range and when a belt has stretched too far. Pretty easy to read it once you look at it.

 

[88gt]

I am about to do the no smog pump and FMS A/C bracket moving the PS pump up. I have been looking at the diagrams on the net to do the short belt, with multiple people saying multiple belt sizes to do this mod. I had a friend do this and say that the belt rubbed on itself when it went from the water pump to the alternator. So after getting a written description from a guy on the corral, I drew this up. Sorry about the crappy MS Paint (my ms paint skills rock BTW) but would it not make more sense to have the belt go this way? It looks like it will make more contact with the water pump as opposed to the 70.5 short belt way. And the way I drew up follows more of the stock routing uh, route. What do you guys think?
Also, what is involved in removing the A/C? Remove the condenser in front of the radiator, remove the A/C compressor, disconnect lines. I am not going to open the dash up and mess with the heater core. What else do I need to do? Cap the lines? Anything else need removing?

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I say no...you are changing the rotation of the water pump. Then you will want to know why you are having overheating issues.

Jim

 

[mob]

Yes I agree with 88, the water pump needs to turn that way. I just did mine yesterday. Should be able to do it in an hour or 2. Real easy, just make sure the compressor is discharged, start to disconnect the a/c compressor from these two spots, if your looking straight at the engine, turn them right to disconnect, I got confused and was actually tigtening them

The rest is all just bolts and brackets, real easy to take off, the hardest part for me was, the stud that goes through the ps pump, its a double threaded stud and almots impossible to get off. Spray ALOT of wd40 on it, take vice grips and good gloves, lock them on the stud and turn it, after alittle while and alot of soreness in both hands it will start to come off. It took me a few times to look at the diagram, but its easy to get on.


Heres the stud.

For the smog pump its 2 bolts and a clamp. Take the bolt on the back of the smog pump off first from under the car, then take the clamp off and the second bolt from the top. Make sure no one is under the car, hit it a few times with a hammer and itll just drop like a rock. i couldnt take out the metal lines to the smog pump to the head, it just wouldnt budge so I just put duct tape on the hole to block it off until I can get it off. Your SUPOSED to take out the metal lines and plug the holes, one on the passenger head, and another on the drivers head. And then you can take out the pipe that goes to the mid pipe. Hope this helps, This is how I would go about doing it, if I were to do it again, took me all day yesterday because it was my first time actually diving into the engine. heres some pics of mine.

Oh and plan on having a back up car, I had to make 3 trips to the store. Bought a 70.5 and 71" the first time, had to go back and I bought a 73, had to go back and ended up buying a 74.5 and that one finally fit.


Oh yea I didnt have time to take out the acuator, condsor ot the lines, but ill get on that right away.

 

[RaceDvr50]

Hey guys I thought that at first too but look again. The water pump turns the same way in both routings.

 

[Kabuki_notch]

so mob you also deleted the smog pump? where did you purchase the ac/eliminator, I just got mine from 50resto.

 

[Mopar1]

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I have been running the "blue set-up" is I have owned the Mustang. The previous owner routed it that way. So the "red set-up" is the proper way?

Us silly Mopar guys.

Besides either way the water pump turns the correct way. Counter-clockwise I believe.

 

[88-GT]

And just so everyone knows, the 'special' bracket ford sells is just the one that comes standard on 5.0's without air from the factory. Really makes for a clean look and easy and effective belt routing. But for those looking for it, it may be just as easy as heading to a junkyard instead of a trip to the dealer.

Here is mine, all I have done is remove smog.

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[Foxfan88]

The water pump will spin the same direction AS LONG as your WP pulley is on the outside of the belt ( flat side touching it)

but with that setup, the tensioner may rub, once it pushes down on the belt it may go too far, dont know for sure bc i havent done it, but have heard of it happening

 

[Mopar1]

The water pump will spin the same direction AS LONG as your WP pulley is on the outside of the belt ( flat side touching it)

but with that setup, the tensioner may rub, once it pushes down on the belt it may go too far, dont know for sure bc i havent done it, but have heard of it happening

Yes. As I said in the earlier post I had my belt running the "blue" way. Belt rub was an issue at the end of the belts life.

I just went outside and tried to switch it to the "red" way. My belt didnt fit. I have been running a 68.5" belt with just a crank underdrive pully. Even an old 69.5 belt wouldnt fit.

I will pick up a 70.5 on the way into work and rout it the "red" (right) way.

 

[88gt]

Upon further review....I was confused and rushed to conclusion......

What a dip

 

[mob]

so mob you also deleted the smog pump? where did you purchase the ac/eliminator, I just got mine from 50resto.

Yea I didnt delete the smog, I just took it all out. I bought my a/c bracket kit from buyfordracing.com, I think summit was like 2 bucks cheaper but oh well, their all the same. I love it though, Cant say I felt a power gain, but i have noticed better throttle response, have to get used to slipping the clutch out of fist again because it revs up alot easier.

 

[dacolino]

Here is the setup on my 85...im not sure on the parts used pretty sure it has the ford racing a/c removal kit/ps relocation kit...might have mac underdrives?? they are black, but it has a manual adjuster that runs from the alternator to the power steering pump or somewhere around there...my car has the smog pump deleted also, so im running the crank, alternator, waterpump and power steering pump...imo its an awesome setup, and have yet to find it for sale. here are some pics to give you guys an idea of what im talking about.

you could prob get the parts at a home deopt or something like that and make the same setup easily, and you eliminate the need for a belt tensioner (tension adjusted through the alternator).

 

[mob]

Is it better to run w/o the tensioner? Where do you get that kit? And how do you adjust the tension through the alternator?