Engine Spout Question.

[Xkuzme1]

Hey guys.

My car has been giving me a lot of trouble starting lately. Today I pulled the SPOUT chip and it started right up. I drove it a few miles and I could tell the timing wasn’t correct, as I had it set manually at 10°. Made a small adjustment at roughly 11° and drove it home. It it was much better. Adjusted the timing again to maybe 12 degrees and took it for a drive. It was darn near driving like normal.

Honestly because of my car setup, in not really sure if I need to put the spout chip back in. It is running great, I can see no reason to pay to fix a computer or ecc that seems to offer no benefit.

Is there any reason that I should try to put the spout back in? Car has no safety features whatsoever. It’s a 350hp 2000 pound go cart.

If I do decide to leave it like it is and basically keep it old school, what would the best timing to leave it at?

thanks y’all, be safe.

x

quiptment
1993 Mustang 5.0 donor car turned into an AC Coba kit car.

• GT-40 Long Block
• Edelbrock victor jr
• Balanced and blueprinted
  Fly cut pistons
• Compcams 1.7 roller rockers
• Compcams 1pc hardened pushrods
• 130 amp alternator
• King cobra clutch
• X-303 cam (286 degrees @ .050)
• MSD distributor

 

[96pushrod]

If your driving around without the spout, your 300hp car ain’t making 300hp anymore as you’re stuck on base timing.

After you set timing did you ever try and plug the spout back in?

 

[Xkuzme1]

I did... and as soon as I did, it kills the car.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Usually that’s a sign the pip sensor in the distributor is going bad

 

[Xkuzme1]

It’s a brand new distributor, coil, and wires. The diagnosis hasn’t changed after the new parts installed. .

 

[90sickfox]

Right now your timing is locked out. Meaning it will not advance to help the power curve. I drove a carburated car for years like that. No huge issue...but nowhere near as much power as it should've had.

Is your computer stock....or is there a chip in it ?

Your TFI module on the distributor should be gray...if its black it's the wrong one.

 

[Mustang5L5]

^ what he said

Usuaully stall with SPOUT out points to an issue with the ECU, the wiring, or something with the dist. A chip on the ECU can also cause this. Have you run engine codes just to see if anything is stored?

With the spout out, the timing is locked. Won't make as much power as it could.

 

[Xkuzme1]

I’m going to run engine codes today.

I am also going to change the water temperature sensor. Some odd ball poking around on a YouTube video showed a safety thing that stops spark if the engine is in extreme overheat mode? I have an after market water temp sensor that has a completely different OHMs value because of the after market gauges supplied by factory five (AC Cobra KIT).

I believe that the computer is stock and not chipped, but I cannot be sure.

x

 

[Mustang5L5]

Any good photos of the engine, just to see if anything looks out of the ordinary?

 

[Xkuzme1]

 

[Xkuzme1]

Was running last week

 

[General karthief]

I’m going to run engine codes today.

I am also going to change the water temperature sensor. Some odd ball poking around on a YouTube video showed a safety thing that stops spark if the engine is in extreme overheat mode? I have an after market water temp sensor that has a completely different OHMs value because of the after market gauges supplied by factory five (AC Cobra KIT).

I believe that the computer is stock and not chipped, but I cannot be sure.

x

There is no overheating/temp gauge relationship to the eecv computer. There is a cold start thing between the computer and temp sensor, not to be confused with the temp sender, sensor is for the computer, mounts into the heater tube or intake on front passenger side and has two wires (no relationship to the gauge) the sender is for the gauge and mounts in the intake on the drivers side and has one wire (no relationship to the computer).
There is on newer computers not ours though.

 

[stangmike86gt]

... There is a cold start thing between the computer and temp sensor, not to be confused with the temp sender, sensor is for the computer, mounts into the heater tube or intake on front passenger side and has two wires (no relationship to the gauge) the sender is for the gauge and mounts in the intake on the drivers side and has one wire (no relationship to the computer).
...

i was going to say this but saw you edited your post before i could.

To OP:

In your picture i don't see the ecu temp sensor, because you don't have the heater tube anymore. Has this been moved to a different location? Or was just it just completely left out on accident?

 

[Xkuzme1]

i was going to say this but saw you edited your post before i could.

To OP:

In your picture i don't see the ecu temp sensor, because you don't have the heater tube anymore. Has this been moved to a different location? Or was just it just completely left out on accident?

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's not the ECU temp sensor. That's the sender for the gauges. ECU sensor installs on the pass side of the motor in a boss in the lower intake. Usually a heater tube comes out of that.


I do see 24# injectors. What MAF and ECU are you running?


From the pic, nothing else stands out as a potential cause. Lets see what you get for codes when you run them. If the ECU is easily accessable, can you get the 3-digit code off it?

 

[Xkuzme1]

The only real details I know about the build are the bullet points I put up top. 24 pound injectors are stock correct?

 

[Mustang5L5]

The only real details I know about the build are the bullet points I put up top. 24 pound injectors are stock correct?

19# is stock.

Prob not the source of your problem, but the stock ECU won't run them without a tune (chip) or with a calibrated MAF which I can't tell if that is.

This may not be the source of the problem, but it might be something to look into.

 

[stangmike86gt]

can you get me a picture of the passenger side of the engine looking from front to back centered around the lower intake . Or just look for the lone connector for the ecu temp sensor. It almost looks like an injector plug in size.

 

[90sickfox]

24lb were stock on the 93 cobra. If the temperature sensor is missing it will cause the car to run in closed loop all the time. The sensors really wouldn't start talking...like the o2 sensors. Usually, it would also lead to a rich condition out the tail pipe.

 

[Xkuzme1]

Update:
I’ve been driving around my car with no SPOUT chip in for a couple weeks. No issues other than obvious destination because of the lack of timing advance.

I ordered an A9L computer from NAPA. I took my computer out and swapped it. With the spout chip back in, it started right up. I rolled it out in the driveway to let the new computer adjust to the timing and idle air setting. I didn’t have time to drive it yesterday, but I assume that all will be good.

Thanks for all of y’all’s help.

x