Starting on my motor

[VibrantRedGT]

Just an FYI about degreeing the cam, don't do it. Install it straight up at 0. I did retard mine like 6 or 8 degrees and moved the RPM power band so far up I had to wind the car out just to get it moving. The power came on about 4900rpm all the way up to like 6600rpm. I didn't have the gearing (3:55's out back) nor the valve springs for that kind of RPM. Of course I broke a Steeda Hi-Rev valve spring after the throttle cable spring popped off at WOT. Shut the car down while it bouncing off the rev limiter for a few seconds. Hi-Rev my arse.

I use a die grinder to remove the old gasket off the block. Put rags in the cylinders and vacuum up the mess after I'm done. Paint the block high temp black gloss while you can see it, makes a nice little difference when the hood is open. Also when you down to the block you can see lots of engine bay white. Now's the time to clean all that up. Try to hide some of the spaghetti wires into the fenders. Also change the water pump while you have access (make a diagram for the bolts, they are all different sizes), it's a well spent $50.

It's nice doing much of the stuff while the motor is out-Tranny, bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, water pump, etc.

Figure since it's stripped down, might as well make it nice.

Then install the motor, tranny, etc. in one shot.

Finished product.

 

[john95 5.0]

The plan is just to pull the motor, replace the leaking rear main seal and oil oan gasket and paint it to make it look nice. Then add the heads cam and intake and throw it back in, it will be getting a new oil pump, timing chain and other associated parts as well. The main reason I am pulling the motor is to make it easier to work on, instead of bending over for the entire project. I would like to get away without machining the block but it definatly can be done if I need too . Sorry for not being more clear with my goals. Just asking some questions ahead of time so that I don't run into unforeseen problems

 

[john95 5.0]

Dang VibrantRedGT that is very nice. Wish mine looked like that lol

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Dang VibrantRedGT that is very nice. Wish mine looked like that lol

Yours can too. Filling, Sanding, Primer and Paint. It can be tedious. I did just about all the prep work in the garage when everyone was asleep at night. Kept me busy at nights when I would be putzing around anyway.

 

[revhead347]

The plan is just to pull the motor, replace the leaking rear main seal and oil oan gasket and paint it to make it look nice. Then add the heads cam and intake and throw it back in, it will be getting a new oil pump, timing chain and other associated parts as well. The main reason I am pulling the motor is to make it easier to work on, instead of bending over for the entire project. I would like to get away without machining the block but it definatly can be done if I need too . Sorry for not being more clear with my goals. Just asking some questions ahead of time so that I don't run into unforeseen problems

Why did you pull the heads while the engine was still in the car then? That's just giving your back a hard time for no good reason.

Kurt

 

[psychorugby]

Wow! I need to find some sort of instructional on where and how to hide the wires and make mine look as good as yours!

 

[VibrantRedGT]

It looked like this first. Stock 302 56,000 mile block-Aluminum heads, Crower Cam, Edelbrock RPM Intake, 70MM TB, Vortech S-Trim Blower, MSD and just a ton of spaghetti stock wiring every where. Had the stock 16" Waffle Wheels because I wanted "Sleeper" mode and it worked. Could whoop Z06 Vette's in this form with drag radials on the street.

 

[psychorugby]

It looked like this first. Stock 302 56,000 mile block-Aluminum heads, Crower Cam, Edelbrock RPM Intake, 70MM TB, Vortech S-Trim Blower, MSD and just a ton of spaghetti stock wiring every where. Had the stock 16" Waffle Wheels because I wanted "Sleeper" mode and it worked. Could whoop Z06 Vette's in this form with drag radials on the street.

Shoot... if mine even looked that clean! That's why I posted my build thread. PM me how you moved wires and such around if you can so that I don't hijack this thread.

 

[john95 5.0]

Dang VibrantRedGT Thats very impressive, you have a very nice machine. Did any of your wire hiding involve lengthening any of the harnesses? I'm assuming you rerouted a lot into the fenders, you just take the splash shields out to get access? I would like to make the engine bay a lot less cluttered, I don't think I'm gonna paint the engine bay this time around but I will make sure i do that in the future!!

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Yes, I took off the inner fender wells off and put as many boxes, wires, etc. inside there. The only thing I had to lengthen was the turn signals on both sides. I soldered in 6 inches of wires, it only took a few minutes on each side. Other than that it's disconnecting stuff and moving inside the fenders.

You can tell by my supercharger pic that it's the stock look. You can see the red firewall in the 347 pick. That's what I was going for, to see more red. I could have put the battery in the trunk and the main fuse box (behind the washer resevoir) I could have put in the fender. It would have been hard to get the inner fender back on though (not much wire length). Too many wires to extend, I've seen it done though.

I could have done more like mentioned but thought it was enough.