Still Running Hot

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by ry94stang50, Aug 6, 2013.

  1. The only tging that woreies me is that the only rwason my cars running fine is because the weather is getting cooler. In the heat of my problem the temps here in jersey werw in the 90s now therw in the 70s so I'm scared next summers gonna bring the problem back to life. But that shouldn't be an issue because the engines going to reach normal operating temp rwgardless of the weather right?
  2. Hey man! I'm glad to hear about your success! Okay, so, the "A" is too hot, and if it jumps up it sounds like an air issue. If it only happened once and never again then it could all be fine. If there is an air issue it will not go away and you [will] be aware of it, lol.

    As far as the new clamps, you might check them now, but for sure check them by week 4. I'm seeing that even new clamps backoff after the car has been driven for awhile. I'm thinking that the clamps from pep boys/autozone are simply crap clamps (like their stats). I will be replacing every single clamp with motorcraft clamps just to be safe.

    Anyhow, make sure your clamps are tight, then go through the coolant cycling protocal with the rad cap off, vent on HI, and temp on full heat. If all is working fine you will only have minimal coolant flow over the rad fill neck into a catch pan. If you have air then you will see anything from small burps to volcano car, at which point you shut it off. My poin for you is to check these things out while your car is parked and you are at your house rather than driving down the road. If all is well the cycling deal will be, no big deal.
  3. Yes, regardless of the weather the engine will reach its [minimal] operating temp. Your concern should be how far above it goes when it gets hot again. Fix the problem sooner than later because it can only get worse. If all your parts are new (and tested) and your block has been flushed (with 2 front plugs removed) then its an air issue.
  4. I actually haven't flushed the block. I did the rad but not the block idk y I skiped it. I'm just nervous to touch anything now that its running good. My luck as soon as I touch it it will all go back to being a pita.idk I'm at work not but tomorow morning I'm gonna try and cycle the little bit of remaining air in my system. The think I'm happy about is the heat finally works its getting cold in the am lol
  5. Okay. Make sure ALL the clamps are tight because you can have heat while still having small amounts of air seep in...until its too late. Like the drama at the end there?
  6. Good advice. I always go back and chase down the clamps a day or so after working on the cooling system. If possible. tighten up the hose clamp with a socket, not s screwdriver. You will be amazed at how much tighter you can get the hose. Just be careful not to overtighten and crush the tube underneath. Finally, the aluminum pipes for the radiator and bypass hoses tend to crud up. A quick hit with a wire brush or even some scotch bright to knock it all down and smooth will help avoid leaks.

    Glad you found the leak. I'm surprised the pressure tester didn't find that out for you...
  7. C'mon Ryan, we're all waiting patiently
  8. 10-4 on the socket not screw driver, and not crushing pipes. Sometimes the pressure tester can miss things like loose clamps if the "leak" is small/slow enough. It took a month of driving for my clamps to loosen up to the point where it overheated, but there was still not one drop of coolant leaking out.
  9. Thanks guys ill use a socket next time the screw driver method deff sucks lol. I'm gonna burp it one more time at my dads house because he has the perfect driveway. Its very steep (spellinf sucks lol). Only prob is my e brake sucks I need to adjust it. If I park on a hill I will roll backwards or forwards slightly. How do I adjust it? And yeah I'm really surprised the pressure tester didn't pick that up too. I did notice it was seeping out behind the water pump. It looks like the water pump bolts too a piece that bolts to the block. It only does that when the system is clogged or over pressurized. I haven't noticed it recently but it did at one point so that gasket might be bad. Ill find out soon enough lol. I'm gonna go through the entire system in the am when I can see lol. I'm realllllly close to figuring this thing out. Then hopefully I can move on to something else likt tie rods and ball joints. There squeeking and prob the factory bushing and what not.
  10. If you want a no hassle way to burp the system, buy one of these. Best $30 you will ever spend.

    The leak you are describing is very common, and is most likely common from the timing cover.
  11. Wow thanks for the clamp tip! I just checked all the new clamps and man they were loose. They were very tight when I installed them. I used a socket and it tightened it very well. Also quick question I don't know if this is a good pic but what's going on here it looks like something is broken possibly by the motor mounts check out the pic and let me know what guys think.

    Attached Files:

  12. Yeah I checkes out that funnel thing I might pick one up the reviews are very good.
  13. That's a really crappy pic but it looks like a piece of the engine bay is broken off not sure what it is its a piece of metal or fiberglass or something its painted body color and is about 5 inches long 4 inches high. The car drives fine though so I hope its not a big deal. Ill fix it when the engine is pulled for the rebuild. Also how hard is it to do a wire tuck in the engine bay do you have to modify the wires at all is there any cutting and splicing? And what about filling all the un needed holes with bondo or something? I don't have a welder. I can weld but I'm not to good at it. How much can I get cheap lincoln welder for? I might n e able to do it at my job as we have that little welder I just need wire for it. Also can I just cover the areas with sheet metal? I should prob start another thread but what the he ll I like you guys lol.
  14. It will not aide in getting air pockets out of our particular system. It will only help coolant not spill out.
  15. I would need more pics but it looks like something got too hot in the area.
  16. If you are going to have a daily driver just keep the engine bay cleaned up and the wires in their looms. All the other work is a nose bleed if you are not used to it. Besides, you ought to make sure every thing runs tight before anything else, unless you have another vehicle. Just my .02 worth.
  17. Yeah I have a 2012 2.0 t. I just use the mustang to go to work and what not. And I let my girlfriend use the sonota. I was just curious. I just want rhe engine bay noce and clean because its gonna have a new motor in it. Im thinking about having rick from RNH buil the motor. He seems like a cool guy and I hear he does amazing work. Thinking about putting a nice 347stroker in it.forged because I want to ad a turbo down the road. I just love the way the turbo sounds. Dont really care about hp. Ill be happy with what the 347 would put down. Rick says with the set up I want without the turbo would be around 350-360rwhp. That's plenty for me:burnout:
  18. Would it be a bad idea to go forged? Becauseits gonna be aawhile till the turbo. Any drivability isuues with a forged engine without a pow er adder/ forced induction?
  19. Feom what I read about thay funnel thing is it attaches to the rad and makes it the highest point. Bug who knows lol
  20. Forged will be fine w/o a power adder. However, you might consider a 331 because it will have a longer lifespan due to better oil control, or you can go 351w for the same basic price of a stroker. I personally would go straight to a 351w because I'd rather build a mild 351 than a screaming 302.