Synthetic oil?

[Redsnake2]

Here is the skinny on lube, KY is nasty and has a bad after taste. Oh wait: Wrong forum:


Regular oil is a fossil oil, a butch of little dead animals decaying and leving behind an oily residue. after awhile the viscosity breaks down due to heat and mechical cycling..

With Synthetic your viscosity break down is very low, for those who don't know what viscosity is:

When you pour your oil in cold it's thick and pours like syrup, but once it heats up it pours like water. With synthetic it almost pours the same hot or cold.. and it is slicker.

With fossil oil once it is burned all those little dead bodies collect and leave a bi-product called oil sludge. which is why most people like to change their oil while the oil is hot or use oil flush to wash most of it out..

The Rumor: If you switch to Synthetic on a high mileage car your piston rings will get blow-by.. this is only true if you are already losing compression in that cylinder.

All this to say make the switch!! you will love it and after about the 3rd oil change your oil will come out as clean as it went in..

Oh did you get the money order, and I still didn't install it yet? fabbing the turbo piping still...

 

[Redsnake2]

another note: 10w is the weight which is common in most oils and 50, 40 and 30 is the viscosity which is the temp it starts to break down...

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

In the summer I run the 15 50 mobile one, and in the winter I run the 10 30 mobile. Zero problems here so far, I'll take a pic of my engine tonight since it is on an engine stand right now. I'm redoing my heads cam and intake right now so I decided to just replace all the gaskets and seals while im at it, it looks perfectly clean, and very very little wear, my main bearings look new still. Ok so what if the motor has 64k miles on it now...... lol.

 

[Methodical]

In the summer I run the 15 50 mobile one, and in the winter I run the 10 30 mobile. Zero problems here so far, I'll take a pic of my engine tonight since it is on an engine stand right now. I'm redoing my heads cam and intake right now so I decided to just replace all the gaskets and seals while im at it, it looks perfectly clean, and very very little wear, my main bearings look new still. Ok so what if the motor has 64k miles on it now...... lol.

Thanks for basically reiterating what I stated early in this thread. We both agree that 15w-50 does not create any internal problems at least in our cars. I do the same thing and have opened up and rebuilt my motor (myself) and I saw with my own eyes, not some oil analysis, that my engine had minimual wear whatsover from using 15w-50 (synthetic) in the summer and 10w-30 (synthetic) in the winter. I still have all of the bearings that came out of the engine, lifters, cam and the oil pump, which by the way still works. As a matter of fact, the oil was still a honey color when I opened it up and my crank had no wear (used standard size bearings) - no machining needed (have all paperwork to support my statements). The machine shop guys were basically amazed that the engine was in the shape it was in (over 125k miles) and asked what oil I used - synthetic as state above and below.

WyStang, Yes you are correct, you are not in a business meeting, but never the less the theory is still the same no matter the situation. Present the facts and support them - no opinions. Don't leave people hanging. We all are trying to learn something here. I try to keep an open mind but as an Auditor, I just can't stand unsupportable claims/opinions. Just One Man's Opinions. Now, if supported, I would learn something new and I like learning new things.

Peace

15w-50 in the summer
10w-30 in the winter
That's my story and I'm sticking with it.

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

Let me also clarify why I run it this way, Where I live the temp. really does not change that much (so. cal) However during the summer time I do see 80* to 100* so in theory the oil "should be a little heated up, hence the thicker oil. I also have been told that the thicker dino oil (20 50) should "not" be used in my car, but the 15 50 synthetic is absolutly fine to run year round. Wytstang usually wont chime in unless he has good info so please dont dismiss what he is saying, This is mearly what I do, and I have no supporting documentation to prove whats right or wrong, just what I can see. Synthetic is superior to dino though, and that is supported.

 

[Swarzkopf]

Use Castrol Syntec...20w50 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Working good so far.

 

[HISSIN50]

another note: 10w is the weight which is common in most oils and 50, 40 and 30 is the viscosity which is the temp it starts to break down...

Not quite. Ok, not at all.

In general (not directed towards you Redsnake), this is one of the worst threads I have ever seen.

 

[drakesdad]

Sorry JT.....I was just inquiring........Will

 

[Swarzkopf]

Sorry JT.....I was just inquiring........Will

"INQUIRING"!? You were just ****ing "INQUIRING"!?

Next time keep your "INQUIRING" to YOURSELF, *******!!

 

[HISSIN50]

Will, sheesh man, you shouldn't apologize at all. It's a very good, valid question. I just don't agree with some statements and some info is simply wrong.
I hate to offend people (so I didnt often debate things on here) but felt it was worth saying something in case someone read too much into some of the info here.

Good luck with the decision Will!

 

[Swarzkopf]

just don't agree with some statements and some info is simply wrong.
I hate to offend people (so I didnt often debate things on here) but felt it was worth saying something in case someone read too much into some of the info here.

<azzkiss>

Hissin...not to sound like TOO much of a brown-noser, but I generally regard the info you post very highly, and I know that'd I'd definitely appreciate it if you'd post exactly what you disagree with here, not to start trouble, but just so we can get your feedback.

</azzkiss>

 

[Redsnake2]

yea if I have given some wrong info, let me know so I can learn also.. I am human

 

[HISSIN50]

Shawn, I PM'd you.

I dont want to get into a debate because none of it matters - it's hard to screw up with oil and have it do any measurable damage (about anything you buy in the store will work, which is by design). If they ever introduce the new breed of oils (it was supposed to happen before 2010 but I havent read about it recently), that will not be the case anymore.

One thing worth clarifying, I suppose.............
A 10W-30 motor oil (for example) will behave (per SAE) like a 10 weight oil (or less) at 32*F. At 212*F (they use boiling and freezing points of water as references), the oil will act like a 30 weight (or of greater viscosity). Counterintuitive, huh? It's through the use of add packs (VII's, etc) that allow this to happen (on a molecular level).

A lot of build up inside the crankcase comes from paraffin. Poly base stocks have almost none, and Group III's have very little. That's a main reason why engines that had a diet of synthetics look clean inside.

I hope I didnt tick anyone off.

 

[Redsnake2]

Thanks Hissin
not pissed off, just educated...

 

[Methodical]

Not pissed off at all because I want to learn too. But folks need to support their statements, opinions etc. with facts and not just make statements or opinions and then leave folks hanging. Is that asking too much.

 

[MattsGreen95GT]

I used to use Quakerstate 10w30 in my old 89GT and never had a problem until it go around 100,000 and it burned oil like it was its job. The first oil change i did was with the same oil and now the 2nd I just switched to Castrol Synthetic Blend in my 95 GT, just hit 50k. I think after next oil change i'll switch full synthetic. Mobile 1 it is! My brother always suggests going to walmart too for Mobile 1, since its cheaper than the parts store.

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

I put in a thread a while ago about the mobile at wall mart, looks like people were listening, And to think I was getting flamed for buying it there and having someone else put it in.....Sons a bit**es!!!!