Well, you moved into an apartment, so there's that aspect of it. The space you're using is "borrowed" - I'm sure you're not going to be able to leave a 40ish year old car half disassembled in their back lot for an extended amount of time. Doing something as extensive as swapping a mod motor into a II isn't going to be an easy "in and out" task.
And, as you've already mentioned, it's gonna cost some money to be able to do it. I'm sure the aforementioned apartment isn't doing you any favors on that end of things either....
The II has never been to the apartment complex. It's been in the back lot of the BMW dealership for awhile. At any given time, 3-4 techs have a project car up here, so it's no big deal.Well, you moved into an apartment, so there's that aspect of it. The space you're using is "borrowed" - I'm sure you're not going to be able to leave a 40ish year old car half disassembled in their back lot for an extended amount of time. Doing something as extensive as swapping a mod motor into a II isn't going to be an easy "in and out" task.
That ^^^^^
The end of an era... And an error. $2147.11, not including the several base gaskets, IAC motors, and o-rings replaced dealing with the hunk of junk.
I'll be throwing it on Facebook Marketplace tomorrow.
Sorry, I pictured Matt destroying that system in a demon exorcism blaze of a torch after using a baby sledge on it.
Then I hope the used sale price will be more that the therapeutic value of smashing and burning it. I have a Monday AM hangover production Holley carb that I was planning on doing that with if the last flaws I fixed were not the last flaws. It is behaving now, but it was close.
ty wiring,
Not that you'll win any awards for originality, but the early Fox scoop will work. I'm sure you've seen the different pics of the hole I have in my hood that that scoop covers. Granted, you're not going to be able to run a high rise or carb spacer with it, but it'll work. The question will come up again once you throw that mod motor in there - I'm not sure it'll work with that either. But the 2 scoops you've written on your hood wouldn't work that way either.....No cookies awarded yet...
So... The new air cleaner doesn't clear the hood (not surprised), and this hood is a rusty old thing I don't have to care about anyway... So I've been plotting and scheming.
Adding to your post reminded me where it was that I said I'd get a pic of the air cleaner and scoop when I had access to the car again!! I mentioned it in post #7, here is what you see looking into the scoop. Pay no attention to how dirty the car is!!
Here is what I got for you a little bit ago. I did not measure across where the stud is located because my hold down nut it is quite a bit taller, but this should get you some good info. I should note that the top of my air cleaner is the Summit Racing K&N filter type and it's flat. I used a 2x4 as my straight edge as you can see in the pics and all measurements are made with my metric scale. I also took a picture of the air cleaner bottom as it sits on my carburetor so you have an idea of what you may expect given yours is a 2" drop. I can measure the height of the collar on the base if need be. The distance between the stud and the cowl is roughly 13.25 inches.
You can see the hole that I cut in the hood much easier in this shot.
This is the leading edge of the the hood scoop hole near the center of the hood. You should be able to make out the center body line to the right of the scale.
The rear part of the hole.
Right side front.
Left side front.
r
Right side rear.
Left side rear.
[
The air cleaner base.
