I found this. After a bit of digging it appears that company went out of business about 2005.
It sounds like they did a lot of built transmissions for a time but was a still a "hole-in-the-wall" even then.
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I found this. After a bit of digging it appears that company went out of business about 2005.
It sounds like they did a lot of built transmissions for a time but was a still a "hole-in-the-wall" even then.
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Similar, but I don’t think that’s the same design. Seems they did cobra intakes, and the curve wasn’t as aggressive.
85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
Agree.... that doesn't look anything like the OP's intake. Plus, the OP's intake actually has a Ford part number cast into it.
I agree with Mike and you should be able find a stock upper intake for less than $100 shipped or less locally. That would be an easy swap and completely remove any possible unbalanced air issues out due to the current upper.
www.car-part.com
But if you have the GT40 heads I would do the Explorer upper and lower but that me.
These are three bar heads:
www.car-part.com
But if you have the GT40 heads I would do the Explorer upper and lower but that me.
These are three bar heads:
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Another easy way to tell what heads (if ford OEM iron heads) is the letter in the corner. You want to look where #1 and # cylinder is.
R = E5TE heads
S = E6SE heads
T= E7TE heads
GT= GT-40 heads
GTP= GT-40P heads.
R = E5TE heads
S = E6SE heads
T= E7TE heads
GT= GT-40 heads
GTP= GT-40P heads.
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Yeah, the one above isn't short on the front and rear runners but a similar hack, none the less. 
I would say that one was modified for a specific power band (RPM range) maybe for class racing (years ago) cause of the shorter runner and larger plenum, the one that's on the car in question I believe was modified possibility for looks, that thing can't function properly as is.Yeah, the one above isn't short on the front and rear runners but a similar hack, none the less.
JMO
It could very well be. Without looking inside, it's hard to say if it was done for looks or for performance. Something that comes to mind tho is that back in the day, I knew of only two companies that flow machines outside of OEMs. Everything else was pretty much hit-or-miss. So, it's hard to say...
b_arrington
Member
Interesting that you found this. The vehicle appraisal I have lists some parts and a customized ECU as being from Windsor-Fox. So perhaps they also made a custom intake? I don’t know, can’t find and pics of one, and as mentioned they’ve been out of business for a long time.
I found this. After a bit of digging it appears that company went out of business about 2005.
It sounds like they did a lot of built transmissions for a time but was a still a "hole-in-the-wall" even then.
b_arrington
Member
Rumor has it the guy that did the mods was doing some type of racing. The car has a TCP manual steering rack, had some suspension work including being lowered (since reversed), traction bars, and a small racing style Grant steering wheel. Maybe the intake was matched for that purpose.
b_arrington
Member
Took another look at the heads today. Didn’t find any GT40 bars on the ends, but did see a “21” cast in where you showed the “S”.Another easy way to tell what heads (if ford OEM iron heads) is the letter in the corner. You want to look where #1 and # cylinder is.
R = E5TE heads
S = E6SE heads
T= E7TE heads
GT= GT-40 heads
GTP= GT-40P heads.
Sound like 289 high performance heads. Fits the era of the car but compared to today’s aluminum heads they are boat anchors. Valuable to the right person build a period correct car though.
b_arrington
Member
Can't really see the other corner too well on that header as its against the fire wall. The other header seems to have a "19" stamped on the corner (passenger side header, stamp at the rear outboard side). Did not see any ribs on the front of that header.
b_arrington
Member
Is it weird that a 5.0 from the 90's would be using 289 high performance heads? Especially if it was supposed to be a "crate" motor?
Work update. Over the weekend we serviced both 10 pin connectors by cleaning them, spreading the pin ends, and adding in some dielectric grease. Had to detour to visit a family member in the hospital so didn't run it to pull codes. Hopefully can do that soon. Also received a new BAP sensor today. I plan to pull the codes to see what's active, check for the 22 BAP code, and then swap out the BAP sensor.
I talked to my son about swapping out the weirdo intake manifold for one that's known proper. Somewhat surprisingly to me he was all for it. Now searching eBay for one that looks decent.
don’t know what those heads could be.
When you swap the manifold, if you want to pull a valve cover you might find casting marks that can help ID the head.
Hopefully they used the 1993 style reusable/felpro valve cover gaskets, and not cork/rtv. The latter makes it a bigger pita to quickly pull a cover.
When you swap the manifold, if you want to pull a valve cover you might find casting marks that can help ID the head.
Hopefully they used the 1993 style reusable/felpro valve cover gaskets, and not cork/rtv. The latter makes it a bigger pita to quickly pull a cover.
b_arrington
Member
I'm going to assume the most difficult situation and that we'll have to clean the mating surfaces and put in a new gasket. We'll have to put new gaskets on the EGR plate/throttle body as well. Since there are a few different sizes of intakes on the intake I'm going to plan on sourcing the intake, measuring the dimensions with a caliper, and then ordering the right gaskets. While in there we'll plan pull the injectors for a visual inspection.
Update on our codes. Pulled them last night before swapping the BAP sensor.
- Code 22 has cleared so we kept the replacement BAP sensor on the shelf for now.
- Still getting Code 54, Intake Air charge temperature sensor circuit open; vane air flow sensor out of range. Just to confirm, since we have a MAF, the "vane air flow sensor" part is not relevant correct? I want to make sure I'm not ignoring a potential problem.
- Since we've tested the ACT sensor at the plug and it seems to be responding I assume we to go back and check the signaling at the 10-pin connectors, and then at the ECU pins/connector.
Code 54 is only referring to the ACT. These codes apply across a few different Ford models, so a code 54 on another vehicle might refer to the Vane air flow sensor.
That code points to broken/damaged wiring. It would cause the vehicle to have poor fuel economy.
That code points to broken/damaged wiring. It would cause the vehicle to have poor fuel economy.
If there is a 19, 20, or 21 on the corner that typically indicates 289 HiPo heads. Post #4 in this thread (have read this in multiple vintage Mustang forums):
My dad and late uncle both had cars with 289 HiPo's so I heard all about them growing up and how Holman & Moody were the shop to send them to get worked over.
Also, it's possible the motor is not a crate motor rather a rebuild and they used crate to make it sound better.
My dad and late uncle both had cars with 289 HiPo's so I heard all about them growing up and how Holman & Moody were the shop to send them to get worked over.
Also, it's possible the motor is not a crate motor rather a rebuild and they used crate to make it sound better.
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