Drivetrain Transmission Just Will Not Go In 1995 Cobra

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by oneslowgt, Jan 7, 2014.

  1. I recently did a big drivetrain job which included new pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, clutch fork, clutch (2 pieces), resurfaced factory flywheel, rear main seal, and bearing retainer.

    When trying to re-install the transmission it simply will just not go in without a fight and the closest I can get it to go in is with about 2 inches away from touching the bell-housing. I feel like the splines are not matching up or something or as if it is not going into the pilot bearing at all.

    Things I have noticed-
    1. The new bearing retainer I bought off of LMR Is about an inch or so longer on the base than the borg warner one that was on there but is the same size tall and there was no bearing inside of it like there is when I pulled off the borg warner.

    2. The clutch fork I bought from LMR is too thick where you put the end of the clutch cable in and impossible to fit a wrench for an adjustable clutch cable so I had to use a non-adjustable one from auto zone.

    What am I doing wrong here?? I have tried to switch back to the old retainer and still the same issue. I am beginning to think that the pilot bearing is different on the cobra than it is on the GT models because that is the last thing the transmission stabs into and will not go in? This was the clutch kit I ordered and came with the pilot bearing.
  2. Make sure you have the pressure plate in the right way. The spline hub should have the widest portion towards the transmission. I know it sounds like a rookie mistake, but I consider myselft a transmission veteran, and I made this mistake at 10pm one night while putting a car back together on asphalt. I put the widest part of the spline hub towards the engine. It ran fine for a few days, then cracked the retainer. Also make sure you have the disk perfectly aligned with the tool before you attempt to put the transmission back on.

  3. All the pilot bearings are the same size except for 4 cylinder T5 transmission. The T5 for a 94-95 is slightly longer than a T5 for a 86-93 Mustang.

    T5 identifier information.

    On the tail shaft of the transmission, there will be a stamped aluminum tag. The tag will have a number on it that you can cross reference to the chart below. There is no other way to find out what type of T5 it is without disassembling it. All the rest of the numbers on the outside of the T5 case are part numbers which are not unique to any particular T5 model.

    Remember that 94 - 97 T5's have a longer input shaft (about 11/16” longer) and can only be used with a 94-95 bell housing unless you modify or replace the input shaft.

    T5's used with a 4 cylinder have a 3.93 first gear, reduced torque ratings and an input shaft pilot diameter that is smaller that the T5 used for V6 & V8 engines. The pilot diameter is .59" compared to the .668" used on V6 & V8 T5's. It requires a different pilot bearing to be used with a V6 or V8. The pilot bearing you need is for a Ford Ranger diesel from AutoZone part #14672


    Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
    Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torqueing the bolts.
    When you install the transmission, you may need to have it in 4 th gear so that you can rotate the output shaft to make the input shaft splines line up with the clutch disk. An old transmission yoke is useful to do this step.

    The input shaft bearing retainer holds the bearing race for the input shaft, bearing shim pack and oil seal All these must be present when you install the input shaft bearing housing. You must set the bearing preload by changing the shim thickness when installing a new input shaft roller bearing or replacing the input shaft housing. You get to set the input shaft preload by varying the shim pack thickness. This is a must do process to guarantee no problems with excessive slack in the input shaft and other problems.

    T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while…
    “The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”

    See to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
    #3 jrichker, Jan 8, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
    oneslowgt likes this.
  4. This happens all the time.. just have someone depress the clutch pedal, while u shove the trans in... it'll slide right in