What do ya'll think of this motor combo

[Grn92LX]

I'd be happy with around 500 blown or 350-400 N/A. I think I've done a 180 and the N/A 347 seems exciting now...It's like a traffic jam of engine combos in my head it's just up to what I can afford to do I guess. I know I'd never be completely happy unless I could take John Forces Castrol Stang in the 1/4 and be 100% reliable.

You sound like me, I did the back n forth thing for a while. Except I actually bought the parts. I had a vortech SQ s trim about 98% installed, then got pissed and sold it. Then I decided to toss around the idea of building a motor for a few months. Now its a done deal as the shortblock is paid for, the old parts are sold and my old motor is sitting in the garage Everybody says that about me too that i'll never be happy.


Joe, i'm not sure on an exact time my shortblock will be done. I'm hoping by mid May as i'd like to go to the nmra event at Englishtown. I know the rods I was going to buy were back ordered and Rick called me the other day asking me if I minded switching. I was gonna use probe light weight 5.4" forged I beams but I ended up switching to probe light weight 5.315" I beams. Rick should have the parts by now and my 28oz Romac balancer from FTI is on its way to Ricks.

My combo is gonna be 10.5-11:1 347 (depending what comp calculator you use) unported TW heads, TFS R manifold, aggressive FTI cam, 75mm tb, 1 3/4" longtubes, 3" X pipe and 30lb injectors. Ed said to use his PS3 springs and I have a PMS to tune with. I told Ed I wanted enough power for high 10's/low 11's. He told me the cam will be very aggressive. Shortblock consists of scat 9000 cast steel crank, probe forged flat tops, light weight I beams, zero deck, arp main studs, melling oil pump, fms shaft and a rollmaster chain.

Heres my bay as of yesterday, I started painting it with clear POR 15 rust preventative paint:

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Which block?

Nik, sorry for stealing the thread. I'm also in the market and weighing my options.

 

[Grn92LX]

Just a stock block. Looking for around 400rwhp and 6500rpm's. I should be fine.

 

[SeventyMach1]

I thought the 331 with a 3.25 stroke was to have a 4.030 bore, not 4.040...

 

[Nik_95Cobra]

Bump for more point of views and ideas...

 

[Joes95GT]

My combo is gonna be 10.5-11:1 347 (depending what comp calculator you use) unported TW heads, TFS R manifold, aggressive FTI cam, 75mm tb, 1 3/4" longtubes, 3" X pipe and 30lb injectors. Ed said to use his PS3 springs and I have a PMS to tune with. I told Ed I wanted enough power for high 10's/low 11's. He told me the cam will be very aggressive. Shortblock consists of scat 9000 cast steel crank, probe forged flat tops, light weight I beams, zero deck, arp main studs, melling oil pump, fms shaft and a rollmaster chain.

PS3 springs?! I know it was a bitch compressing the PS2 springs. Have fun with your sore hands after you do the PS3 springs.

The cam is going to sound ignorant. I'll bet it has 230+ on both sides and an LSA of less than 110. Again, have fun tuning it. I'd like to listen to it though.

Joe

 

[Grn92LX]

Joe, I hope the cam sounds like a killer I was thinking like low/mid 240's for duration and .57x lift range? Or I could be totally off and it'll have lots of duration and low lift.

I have that cheap piece of sh !t autozone valve spring tool. I took my old FTI springs off and I had like a circle dent mark in my hand after I was done I have the heads bare because I was gonna take them to the shop to be clean up milled and have them clean the carbon and sh !t out of them. If the springs are that bad i'll have the shop do it. I flip out REAL easy when something doesn't work my way

 

[Nik_95Cobra]

I flip out REAL easy when something doesn't work my way

Me too I can't build a model car without smashing it into oblivion 3/4 of the way through

But update...the guy is coming back this afternoon to buy the car for sure so I will definately be getting a motor. Still no progress on my combo decision, that Hardcore50 site seems pretty cool. Some big money cars over there. After looking at that site it still seems even on the 331/347 debate in the one thread I saw but I haven't really got to search that site for very long. I honestly don't care if it puts out 150 horse at the flywheel long as it doesn't leak... But I'm still undecided on 331/347 or NA/SC...What are some other places for longblocks besides CHP, DSS, and Bennet that are reputable? So far it looks like CHP's the only one offering discounts to our shop.

 

[Nik_95Cobra]

Here's a post from a guy over on hardcore50 that aparrently works for probe or chp...Those of you still deciding may want to see this although I can't vouch for the accuracy but I cut and pasted it to here...

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10-4 on the pink bags, Adam. I never thought about it before. I think that all the pistons go out in plastic bags now. And you are correct. We don't sell many kits to guys living in San Francisco anyway. I have read the above posts with interest. 331 vs 347. If everything else is equal, the 347 will make more HP and torque, period. The key to the CHP 347 Street Fighter as some of you pointed out is the slightly shorter rod which keeps the wrist pin from interfearing with the oil ring land. We offset the pins .060" to reduce rod angularity (and the calculated rod/stroke ratio) to that of the longer rod. So, you get the same power and full oil control for 100,000+ miles. This oil control feature is the ONLY reason that we get 50-state emmissions certification. That test was for 50,000 miles compliance. The 347 with the 5.400" rod made it to 10,000 miles before lack of oil control starts in. What happens is that the oil eventually goes over the top of the oil ring and forces the 2 top rings to become oil control rings. This they can't do for very long, and they wear out, causing the cylinder walls to wear out, creating a mess. For a drag only engine, the 5.400" rod is fine. After all, 10,000 miles is "forever" at a 1/4 mile at a time. But for the guy wanting long engine life for extended hard driving, the 5.315" rod becomes essential.

 

[final5-0]

But I'm still undecided on 331/347 or NA/SC...What are some other places for longblocks besides CHP, DSS, and Bennet that are reputable? So far it looks like CHP's the only one offering discounts to our shop.

OK Nick ...... you say you want some different ideas.

Here is an idea that comes to my mind on a regular basis

KB 2200

Tons of street torque fun

Put it on a fresh 306 from who ever with a set of Aluminum heads of your choice with a GT40 lower so you can do the bypass thing ...... zilla doo dad or what ever its called, lol.

The torque output form those things is so great that when you want to feel some power you simply mash down the skinny pedal ...... no need to down shift

Later
Grady

 

[Grn92LX]

Nik, a 331 shouldn't even be a thought in your head. Think about it- your going with more cubes to make more power, correct? So instead of 29 extra cubes you can have 45 more cubes. For the same price, what a deal! With a stock block, like my and others have said, dont think your putting a good h/c/i AND a charger on. Your best option is a nice n/a 347. If you want to keep all your emissions stuff, the biggest heads I know of that have that are afr 185 and TW. If moneys not an object I would use a ported TW in a heart beat. But out of the box an afr 185 with do you good too with an rpm II manifold.

Talk with Rick 91GT on here. He's building my shortblock for a very good price considering what all i'm getting. If not, then chp is your best bet since you get a discount.

 

[Jason@AFR]

I agree with Final5-0, KB rules, you could do any of the motors in discussion, build an insane amount of torque, gear everything for lower speed torque and less horsepower.....and let me know what brand tire you plan on using so I can place some investments in the right place. Just my .02, Jason

 

[Nik_95Cobra]

Sounds good to me too. I daily drive on 315 drag radials so that's the best I can do there lol. I'm trying to convince myself on the 347 route still...Not sure how many times I have to be told 347's are ok before I'm comfortable with it heh. It's just so 50/50 and there's that stigma however false it is and I'd lose my rear if something happened. But I'm leaning more on the N/A 347 by the day. Then again I had a vortech on one of my old cars and I loved sitting at a light barely blipping the gas to make it give off that loud whine. That car was nothing but problems though because of that S/C.

 

[Grn92LX]

Day after day people buy inferior/mediocre parts for their car based on what they read by unknowledgable sh itheads on the internet. Do YOU want to be one of those sh itheads? Thats about as blunt as I can say it w/o bypassing too many word filters

The 306 KB idea is cool too if you like low end torque. I'd rather see you build a 306 with a vortech/novi 2000 if you went the s/c route. I still stand behind my n/a stock block 347 recommendation Low end torque doesn't tickle my pickle, horsepower and winning races does

 

[Nik_95Cobra]

I know me, and I know if I do a 331 I'll wish I did a 347 as many many many others have said. The trick is convincing myself of it...But I'm gettin there. Good thing there's these 2 or 3 forums to steer me in the right direction. Mike, I have no doubt in what you're saying, I'd just rather beat a dead horse than have Iffy questions left on the table. Thanks for the help guys...

 

[4Jenna]

I've never wished for a 347 once...lmao
All these guys speak from exp. since they all have 347s running in their car.
Just get a 03 Cobra man

I think with what you have in mind for your car, the idea u had from the 1st post(u get a discount u said) is a good idea. That motor with 8-10psi would make 500rw easily (which we all know is the danger area for a stock block) If u are trying to get every last hp outta the car, and arent worried about the ups/downs that comes with that type of setup, go all out like these guys said with the custom cam, big dollar motor.

But if your boosting..dooooooon't use the stock block...hehe

Either motor will make your desired power, and WAY more than a stock block can handle on boost...period.

 

[Grn92LX]

I know me, and I know if I do a 331 I'll wish I did a 347 as many many many others have said. The trick is convincing myself of it...But I'm gettin there. Good thing there's these 2 or 3 forums to steer me in the right direction. Mike, I have no doubt in what you're saying, I'd just rather beat a dead horse than have Iffy questions left on the table. Thanks for the help guys...

The balls in your court now. Theres 2 seconds on the clock and you have the ball. Do you go for a 3 pointer to win it (347) or do you try to tie it (331) Not sure about you, but I HATE losing

 

[4Jenna]

The balls in your court now. Theres 2 seconds on the clock and you have the ball. Do you go for a 3 pointer to win it (Installing a S-Trim) or do you try to tie it (Give Up on the Install) Not sure about you, but I HATE losing


Mike, I fixed it for u

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Dart Iron Sportsman 302 block machined to 347. Real good internals, AFR 205's, Jay Allen or FTI cam, Victor EFI intake, 75MM TB, LT's, 36# injectors, etc.

 

[Grn92LX]

Make that TB 90mm and those injectors 42lb

I really wanted to use that victor efi manifold on my car but theres too much BS for me. I'd have to rig up pcv or buy an evac set up, no egr and i'd have to port match the heads. I chose the tfs R for those reasons. With the combo your planning the victor would work good since those heads don't have egr ports and it probably matches the afr 205 intake ports pretty good.