What's the best motor oil

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I would use 5W-30 or 10W-30 (per the temp range your see where you live). Your choice on synthetic vs conventional (I like synthetic for extreme temps, since I dont do extended OCI's).

If you see low pressure or excessive consumption with either of those weights, stepping up to a 10W-40 can sometimes help.

This is all horribly generic info since oil choice is highly individualized (you will probably get a different recommendation from every poster) and it depends largely on the characteristics of a given motor and climate.

Good luck.
 
Hissins advice is top notch...as always. My thoughts are pretty basic, my last motor survived 200.000 HARD long miles on dyno oil and motocraft filters (cheap dyno oil I should note). Best oil is clean oil and for the filter...try to attain the best filter availabe. New mill diets on castrol gtx and K&N filters. I will go synthetic eventually, but if the oils clean and filters good I would not give it too much thought.
 
Hissin50 hit it rite on the head.As long as you change the oil regularly (every 3000 miles) regular oil is fine!! Synthetic oil mite cause leaks if you have high mileage on the car.Its up to you if you wanna pay the extra cash to switch over.Once you do though its a "good idea" to stay with it and "not" switch back :nice:
 
DMAN302 said:
Best oil is clean oil and for the filter...try to attain the best filter availabe.
I've literally put a few million miles on vehicles. My last teardown was one of my 5.0's with 188K. It was clean inside. We reused all pistons, rods, cam, lifters, rockers, etc... the block only took a 2000-wire dry hone while the crank only took a polish. I ran dino and a Motorcraft FL1A and changed when dirty (3000 miles is only a suggestion).

Everyone has an opinion and the word "best" is subjective. The "best" advice is highlighted by DMAN302.
 
PuterAmI said:
I've literally put a few million miles on vehicles. My last teardown was one of my 5.0's with 188K. It was clean inside. We reused all pistons, rods, cam, lifters, rockers, etc... the block only took a 2000-wire dry hone while the crank only took a polish. I ran dino and a Motorcraft FL1A and changed when dirty (3000 miles is only a suggestion).

Everyone has an opinion and the word "best" is subjective. The "best" advice is highlighted by DMAN302.
I find 3000 miles to be the magic number not because of the dirtyness of the oil,but the vescosity of the oil.As soon as I hit 3000 miles with regular dino oil it seemed the oil got real thin!!!
 
i'm a 2500 mile freak, if i get to 2800, i'm pissed. you guys are definitly right, it might not look dirty, but the oil can be worn down. I just do it a bit early as a safety margin. as a result, when you take my VC's off, you could eat off the rockers, and my cars run like a champ!

i live in RI and it's pretty cold here, so i run 5w 30 in the winter, and come spring, i run 10w 30. i personally use QS high horsepower lend, but i've used good ol castrol in my other cars. after 150K my nissan with NOS, i didn't even need to hone the cylinders when i rebuilt it. it proves, good oil great filter, change often...= healthy motor.
 
You can't go wrong with Castrol, Valvoline, or Motorcraft oil. I always used a Ford Oil filter and dyno oil in either 10W30, 10W40, and 20W50 in my car and the engine ran strong for 197,298 miles before I rebuilt it. I am going to break it in with 10W30 Valvoline and FL-1A oil filter.

Capacity is 5 qts for the 5.0L engine.
 
i use valvoline dura bland 10 w40. i change my oil at 3,000 like clockwork and the oil is still very slick and relatively clean looking. i've used it since they started selling it. you get the benefits of a synthetic and a regular motor oil. i have a setrab 6 row oil cooler so my oil capacity is right at 6 quarts. makes for a pretty expensive oil change but definitely worth it.
 
I'll use anything but QS in a vehicle. But I'll not get into that.

Yeah, it's a personal preference kinda thing. I have ran Mobil1 synthetic oil in my car every since I bought it. And I'll never change.

Where do you get this "Dino" at anyway. I don't think I have seen it ..... is it made by MMO?
 
aod92 said:
My dip stick is messed up so i keep putting to much in.
Too, not to.

To adjust a dipstick on any vehicle, at the next oil change drain it and remove the filter. Now put on the new filter (some folks like to fill the filter first), then pour in one quart less of what the engine calls for. Start and let it run for 30 seconds or so until your oil comes up to pressure. Shut off and let sit for a bit to let the oil drain down. Now pull your dipstick, clean it off, then slowly seat it. Pull it back out. You have now found where the oil level will be on the dipstick when it is ONE QUART LOW. For almost everyone, this is the most important mark there is.

Throw in one more quart, repeat the process, then mark FULL.
 
I use Royal purple synthetic, free up some horse power due to less friction, but as written above not a good idea to switch back. I saw a show were they took this crapy camaro and gained 8 rwhp buy switching to all synthetic royal purple not too bad and it's good for the car. Try it i know you will notice a diff right away, I give you the Warren Dagenais garentee
 
I change mine every 1500 Km's in the mustang and maby every 3000 in the truck. I just get bored and fell like changing the oil sometimes. Plus I am real anal about that. I work part time or whenever they need help at Oil Gaurd changing oil and I seen and heard some nasty shieat.
 
I`ve been using synthetic oil for so long now that I can`t remember the last time I used conventional oil.
9 times out of 10,I use Mobil 1,or sometimes Valvoline Synpower when my local Wal-Mart has a special deal on 5L jugs.(10W-30).

Whatever oil you choose,don`t use Fram oil filters.They are the worst garbage oil filters on the market.

Pay a little more and go with the Motorcraft FL1A at least.