Would like some info on stroker kits

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by Preston951, Jun 9, 2009.

  1. Hey everyone, recently I learned that the 4.6 aluminum block can hold a whopping 700 hp! After searching around, I've found some stroker kits that not only will replace and outlast the stock internals under boost, but will also add some more displacement to my stock engine.

    I'm gonna say this outright - I know NOTHING about engines overall. I understand the basics, but I don't really know how everything gets put together. I'm looking into a few different kits that will raise the displacement to either 298ci (4.9 stroker) or 311ci (5.1 stroker).

    My question is, what kind of work will be needed to be done along with either stroker? I need a new tune, right? Also, what sort of power increase should I see over stock? (That's what I mostly am now.)

    My plans include a supercharger at reasonably medium boost... But I'll probably stay below the 14s (PSI) depending on what increase stroker will give me. What should I see while still N/A??? I'll either do the stroker first or run a blower on low boost until I have the $$ for both.

    Livernois is one of the most recommended kits on the web, but the fact their stroker kit will cost me the same as the Probe Industries 5.1 stroker kit is questionable. By the way, I'm thinking of opting to this rather than getting a whole new MMR block.

    Thanks a lot!

    New - Livernois Motorsports - 4.6L 3-Valve 298ci Stroker Rotating Assembly
    Stage 3 Motorsports 1996-08 Mustang GT 5.1L Forged Stroker Rotating Assembly - 21.0 Dished Pistons
  2. The aluminum block can run 1,000hp all day. Its the rotating assembly(cast crank, powdered metal rods, hyperautectic pistons) that is the weak link.
    The rods and pistons are good to about 450rwhp/ 10lbs of boost.
    The cast crank is decent as they can run 700+ hp but alot of people prefer to upgrade to a forged crank.
    It depends on your compression but a 298 stroker on an otherwise stock engine would be about 25-35 hp. Of course with bolt-ons (intake, exhuast, heads/cams, dyno tune) you will see bigger gains from that extra displacement.
    Be sure to get a forged stroker kit if you do ,might as well get some stronger stuff if u plan on running boost later.
  3. WOW! 1000hp!? Cool!
    Good to know about those ratings... Thanks!
    Also, awesome about those extra horsies! And I'm sure once I go F/I those gains should be even larger.

    But... Am I'm gonna need a new custom tune, for timing and all that??? :shrug:
  4. Not absolutely necessary but it would help alot, I would always reccomend a dyno/custom tune when you do major mods like that, cost a little more, but at least u know its safe and not detonating lean/rich plus you will squeeze more power out of your mods. Its also way cheaper than buying a new engine.
  5. Really??? It's not absolutely neccesary!? :shrug:

    I'd probably do a custom tune anyways.

    Anyone else have any info/input/personal experiences???
  6. Nothing else? :(
  7. Although it is tempting to get a complete crate engine... That'll cost me around 5x as much as a stroker kit alone ha! + I can get a little more displacement with the 5.1! :nice:
  8. what are your plans regarding driving...any strip racing? (street/race or race/street car)?

    Bunch of us locally have FI cars and all are raced at the strip. We break a lot of stuff...lol. From transmission, rearends, clutches to stock motors. We have even blown a built motor on our car. A lot depends on your budget, tolerance for pain, and how much downtime you can put up with.
  9. Great question!

    My goal is to have a FUN street car, with maybe a few trips to the drag strip every 6 months (+/- some).
    This'll be my daily driver for sure.

    My budget is limited, I can only take so much, and downtime needs to be short... :p

    I don't need a sub-10 second car; I just want one that'll be more fun for my daily commute. :nice:
  10. Most of us have blown something or other, starting at about 500 rear wheel, although I know a guy who blew his transmission at 440 rwhp. You know when our local NHRA track is well-prepped...cars hook well and stuff starts to break...lol.

    However modestly and carefully you mod...there are simply no guarantees and although folk mostly talk about forging this and that...lots of other stuff can break, snap or simply come loose.

    Sounds like you are developing a sound plan and that's a great way to start. At the same time, plan so that you can leave room for growth...goals change.
  11. Thanks a lot for the information man! :D

    You sound like you know your stuff - Anyone you know running a stroker motor? What kind of increase should I see with a built stroker engine???
  12. Based on what you said here, I'd skip the stroker motor, go with any of the reputable superchargers out there and call it a day. Maybe I'm wrong, but I get the impression that you're not fully aware of what's involved with putting in a stroker kit. You will have to pull the engine out and strip it down pretty close to a bare block.
  13. Actually...consider myself a newb at this game. For one thing, don't do any of the installs on the car. I am not mechanically inclined at all. Can only report on what the car has gone through (good and bad) since 06.

    Car has a 302 stroker. Maybe good for an extra 20-40 rear wheel. But it's the whole combo that's important...not any single piece. Car also has a 4r70w, JPC intake manifold, Livernois stage 3 heads and spr blower cams, 9 inch rear + full spool, meth injection, triple pumps, 76mm turbo, and lots of suspension stuff.

    He may be right. Keep it relatively simple. Less things to go wrong, less down time. Also you get to keep it user-friendly and comfortable. There is definitely a trade-off between ETs and comfort/convenience.

    Pic of our car's interior...lol
    View attachment 254503
  14. Sorry, I may have come off wrong in that previous post lol! :p

    I have a shop that I actually currently work at so as far as install & downtime & all of that goes, it shouldn't be too bad. I'm totally aware of what needs to be done to install a stroker hahaha! (Well... Still confused as far as boring and all that stuff goes... I'm pretty sure that only some specific kits need boring of the cylinders... :shrug:)

    I'm aware that I'm gonna need to pull the engine. My biggest concern is that once I get all that power from the blower I'm gonna break something in the engine, so taking precautions is a must for me. :nice:
  15. OK, so you have access to the resources to help you yank the motor and do the build. Do plan on the car being down for a few weeks though. You'll only need to bore if you go with bigger pistons. There are kits out there, but you really have to look for them. The "typical" stroker kit will have 3.55 pistons that drop right into the stock block. Still, if I were in your shoes, I'd start off with a blower that can be upgraded down the road. Slap it on the stock motor. Drive it like that till winter comes, then do the big build.
  16. Yes. That's the plan! :nice:
    My overall goal is to run a blower (Whipple/KB/Roush) on lower boost for a while until I can afford the install and downtime on the car for the stroker. Winter for me is the best time to drive my Stang... No snow/rain here. :p

    But I'll set aside some time at some point for the stroker install. Thanks for the "3.55" number - That'll help a lot! :D