Stock . they are notoriously weak and always shift right into 3rd gear way to early
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I believe a shift kit will cure the shifting issues and crispen it up but another experienced guy might answer most of my cars were 5 speeds @mikestang63
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
He can either do a Trans GO shift kit or a SilverFox performance valve body as both essentially accomplish the same thing. Both will help firm up the shifts and make the AOD more enjoyable to drive and actually last longer. My preference is to swap the valve body vs. the shift kit as it's a simple swap job vs. modifying the stock one.. I would recommend he speak with Brian at SilverFox for the VB. That is what I have in my car and very happy with it..
In addition- get the biggest plate style trans cooler you can fit as when you modify the AOD it adds heat and that is what kills these transmissions. Last, proper adjustment of the TV cable is critical as improper adjustment can fry an AOD in a matter of miles.
Head on over to clickclickracing.com
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It's a 60 mm and it came on 94 and 95 mustang GT's and Cobras. Their MAF's are 70 mm. Those will easily support the power you'll make with 170 heads and an explorer intake w the ported lower. My guess is you'll make 278 rear horse at 5,700 rpm. Oh and 'F' that intake spacer unless you need it to make clearance for taller valve covers. No power gained from one
You need at least a 65mm tb and I wouldn't go with less than a 70mm. If you're going to port the intake and all that open up the intake opening to 75mm. Run a 75-80mm MAF w/24-30# inj and a good custom cam w/those heads. Do not create a choke point anywhere in the intake tract or you will loose power.
Also for cam selection/price point,a custom cam can be purchased for as little as 50-100$ more than an ots grind like a tfs1,comp cam,etc. The custom can be designed for great street manners w/ more power. With a good cam and a Good dyno tune it will maximize your combo.
Also for cam selection/price point,a custom cam can be purchased for as little as 50-100$ more than an ots grind like a tfs1,comp cam,etc. The custom can be designed for great street manners w/ more power. With a good cam and a Good dyno tune it will maximize your combo.
I guess I thought that spacer helped cool the air...
Im thinking I'm gonna go 70 , I already have 24lb injectors. I rapped withe TMoss and sending my intake out to him. Another a 300$ port job shipped 2 ways, looking forward to that. I've been leaning towards the tfs1, is there a big reason I should go custom cam? I wouldn't even know how to start that conversation! Lol.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
summit parts are usually rebranded stuff, some of it good, some of it not. a LOT of the cast aluminum stuff (rear covers, trans pans, valve covers) is made by/for trick flow (which makes sense since summit own tfs) and is of good quality, and a lot of bigger stuff they sub out to "big name" quality suppliers (iirc griffin at least used to build their radiators, dunno about any more), but not all.
honestly, i'd try to stay away from any aftermarket t/b other than an accufab, all the cast ones seem to whistle. bbk's build quality is fine,other than the whistle, ive never had problems with mine, but if you're able to spend the extra, go for the accufab.
He was running around 8-10# if I remember correctly. Also has a Holley systemax intake. Your ported explorer will flow plenty air for you.
Holley Systemax and I made that on an old out dated Vortech A trim at 7.5-8psi . yeah you would unless you had a higher compression piston with a decent cam and stroker kit in it which really isn't worth it in a stock block .
Anything north of 450 your really in block splitting territory . FYI I paid 1000 for that. a trim kit complete and 1500 for my s trim kit and sold my a trim kit for 1100 after using it a year . Deals are out there . Now I am doing and after market block big bore stroker shooting for 580-600 at tire .
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Without a power adder(blower,turbo,nitrous) you'd have to build a race motor to get 400 with a 302. We're talking all new internals ie light weight crank,rods,and higher compression pistons,a custom roller cam(probably a solid roller),great heads and you'd have to spin high rpms(7k or better). Now you could build a stroker version and get there with less rpm but still need all the extras. If you want around that hp level the cheapest way to do it is with forced induction.
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