First Build
- Thread starter Mario88
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I ended up going a different route than using tfs 170's so I sold the explorer intake but when he did my ho lower I chose all the extras and when it came back to me it looked brand new.
^^^ this . Decent headgaskets like 9333pt1s and arp head bolts or even studs . etc etc
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Here are your instructions. I doubt you will really need a tune after the swap with careful tuning.
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html
Use the search for speed density MAF conversion for other threads about this.
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html
Use the search for speed density MAF conversion for other threads about this.
Mine sticks occasionally. I thought I had it fixed. Drove fine for months. Then it stuck at the track. Fun fun lifting off the throttle and it kept revving. Slammed the pedal repeatedly. Had to shut the motor down it was bouncing off the revlimiter. After tinkering with it some more I figured out the actual throttle arm has a catch and wouldn't unstick from wot. I could manually open it and it would stay wide open and had to twist it closed. I pulled it apart and cleaned/lubricated everything and it's fine again. I'm just thankful I wasn't spraying nitrous at the time! I've heard from a few others of having the same problem and everyone had a BBK so I assume...? But that is a very small sample size to say all of them do that and it could be coincidental
Sorry for the derail, but this is important.
I would be doing three things about a stick throttle body. 1. Not everyone on their tech support line is a genius, but BBK stands behind their products. Unless you have had it for years, I would warranty it ASAP. 2. Check the throttle cable and bracket to make sure there is no binding and that it does not torque the TB in any way. 3. Somehow add another return spring like on a carb!
I had a used 1850 that I rebuilt and put on a 302. I did not realize the center link was bent to open the secondaries (like a double pumper) rather than close them (vac secondary style).
I would be doing three things about a stick throttle body. 1. Not everyone on their tech support line is a genius, but BBK stands behind their products. Unless you have had it for years, I would warranty it ASAP. 2. Check the throttle cable and bracket to make sure there is no binding and that it does not torque the TB in any way. 3. Somehow add another return spring like on a carb!
I had a used 1850 that I rebuilt and put on a 302. I did not realize the center link was bent to open the secondaries (like a double pumper) rather than close them (vac secondary style).
Where did the edit button go some time ago? It has dissapeared. @moderators I am using Safari and an Iphone.
Anyway, the first time I got on it was a frightening ride. A run away 5.0 is much worse than any Prius!
Anyway, the first time I got on it was a frightening ride. A run away 5.0 is much worse than any Prius!
And I avoid Summit brand parts for fear of too cheap to be good parts. I may have to rethink that. Just avoid their control arms if you have power and traction.
Control arms are junk my friend broke one on the street in second gear . there throttle body's are a professional products without the logo . cheap but no issues
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
My favorite throttlebbody is an oem 94/95. Big enough for the street warrior and built like a brick sh!thouse. No whistles, no sticking.
Similar threads
