It has
nothing to do with the size of the MAF. It's all about how the
electronics are
custom tuned at the factory.
And, you NEVER EVER swap electronics among MAFs - NEVER! That's asking for problems. It may work, or it may not. Kinda like playing Russian Roulette.
BTW: C&L is a joke - it's NOT a real MAF - it's a JOKE. Don't even talk about a C&L unless you have a Tweecer RT and are willing to spend ~80 hours custom tuning the software to that POS MAF. Even then, you'd have a POS MAF that is NOT consistent over varying conditions (temp, air pressure, etc).
BTW#2: If you think you can design a
real-life MAF and
real-life electronics that do NOT need the electronics to be custom tuned, then get off your rear, patent it and become a zillion-air.
Also, having the incorrect or a POS MAF on a car gets
involved. It's not a simple "more/less air" and screwed up A/F. The EEC will TRY to adjusts it's trim tables to have the incorrect MAF match the
O2 feedback. At the same time, the trim will be bouncing all over the place. The MAF is needed when you accel/decel. So, you can become lean on ANY accel/decel if the incorrect MAF is used.
If the EEC can not adjust the trim to get the A/F in line, then the EEC goes into failure mode, goes
PIG RICH, and maps out the MAF as being bad.
In short,
do not screw around with the MAF!