Should have been my first 11second pass.

Thanks Rick. I'm kinda new to all this internal stuff. I assume a stock shaft wouldn't need clearanced as it's the same shape all the way across correct? I do have an MSD dizzy. What do I need to do to make sure this goes smoothly the NEXT go round. :shrug: I never sent my builder the dizzy. :bang: I also noticed the MSD dizzy is taller than my stock one was. I had to ditch my ST brace because of this. Does that sound normal? Or is this a sign of what you speak of?
 
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I have had no issues with my MSD and my STB. I run a performer rpm II so I have an aftermarket STB with the bend upfront and everything clears fine. Something sounds funny about your issue. And yes hardened shafts are more brittle so they would snap way befoe they twist up like that. I can't imagine why the msd dizzy would be taller either... did you make sure its taller or are you assuming its taller. I can measure my MSDdizzy length for you if you like? I dont have a stock one to compare with but maybe just to see if yours and mine are the same length.
 
How do I know it was taller? I put my ST brace back on the car after swapping to the MSD dizzy and it rubbed the center coil wire. Shocked the living chit out of me. That's how I found out. :lol: My ST brace isn't factory. It was an aftermarket that I also had reworked due to it not fitting the 96 cobra hood. So it runs directly over the dizzy cap. When I changed them the height difference was very.... electric to say the least.
 
Well unfortunatly the only way to really set that clearance is to have the front cover off so you can access the shaft. With the oil pump bolted into position and the dist dropped firmly into place you need to make sure you can move the oil pump shaft up and down, I shoot for .100" min. I also verify that when the dist is pulled the shaft can not fall out of the oil pump.

I usually find I need to trim the bottom of the MSD dist to get the proper clearance otherwise the aftermarket shafts bottom out on the dist bottom and this basically locks the shaft solid, I found out the hard way years ago when I swapped a MSD in when my stock unit failed. It is nearly impossible to check for that with out the front cover off. You also need to make sure the gear doesn't bottom out on the pad inside the block, all the MSD units usually come with instructions telling you to check the clearance before installing.

I use the Ford Racing shafts over the ARP since they have a longer relief area. If you need to trim the dist just grind off the bottom of the dist to gain the clearance, file it so it is nice and smooth and make sure it is clean before installing. I use my belt sander to take off the required amount ;)

I ask all customers for their dist so I can set the clearance, if it is not available I use a stock piece I have here and give the detailed measurement they need to check from the bottom of the dist to the flange. If you need any more help give me a call :)

The MSD units sit just a tad higher...
 
Thanks again Rick. Great instructions. I'll make sure the dizzy goes to the builder and he checks this. It's all coming apart anyway. So now is the time to do it right. I'll get him to order the CORRECT Ford Racing shaft.
 
Update: It was a tough winter here. Lots of things going in my life so the car project was on hold. :bang:

Where I stand today: The engine is out, and tore down at my builders shop. He is sending me pictures soon. The transmission is also out and headed back to my buddy's shop. He may be swapping the case as mine has seen a lot of abuse and is wearing internally. Tolerances are getting too close for comfort.

The good news. For those that followed my mess of a build. This is the second pull, third time the engine will be going back in the car. The first time the engine was started the cometic head gaskets leaked. And it ate the end of my dipstick when we cranked it over. We found all but a small piece. 2,000 miles later. It has now been found! It seized up my pump. How it got in there, I am not sure. The screen was fine on the pick up.

So as it stands now. I have a 7 qt. pan with a relocated dipstick going on the engine.
The pistons are being milled a hair so I can go back to a normal thickness head gasket. (They were damp this last time, which is NOT good. They were probably about to start leaking again.) When the pump seized I of course lost the oil shaft and pump. Also the crank bearings show a color change. So those are being replaced. The crank itself checks out okay. Nothing else seems to be damaged. No glitter.... so I may have really lucked out on shutting it down quick.

I have an AJE Racing K-member going in the car, spring perches to use with the stock a-arms. I'm also adding a line lock while the engine bay is empty. And finally a battery cut off switch with the removable T-handle.
 
What did Cometic ever say about those gaskets leaking anyway? I know Rick (Rick 91GT) had mentioned having issues with them in the past. He's mentioned that he's reused them by drilling out all of the rivets except one and coating the layers with some Chrsyler gasket spray. I guess that's supposed to prevent seeping between the layers. Might be something to look at, if Cometic doesn't have a solution, but you still want to run their gaskets.
 
The first time, they replaced them. And said to coat the outsides along the seams down. Which is what we did. They were holding, but looked like they were starting to fail. I hadn't used the 125 shot yet either. I just found out about the engine this w/e. So I'm not sure if he's called them yet. I'm hoping to get my money back, and then use a different brand now that I'll be able to run a normal thickness.
 
I've honestly never studied gasket thickness too closely. Are you able to run a MLS gasket that's normal thickness? What's the Fel-Pro 1133 thickness like, being another MLS gasket?
 
I've honestly never studied gasket thickness too closely. Are you able to run a MLS gasket that's normal thickness? What's the Fel-Pro 1133 thickness like, being another MLS gasket?

Cometic was the only one thick enough.... at the time. Since we are milling the pistons a bit, we'll be back to stock thickness and there are a LOT more choices. :nice:

well at least you found the dip stick piece and thats off your mind :shrug:

i was actually concerned because i just put the melling HV pump on the 306 we are building...

You bet! :nice:

Looks like you should be all set once its all back together. At least you know the cause of the problem now.

One can hope.... :p

Try SCE MLS gaskets. They are in California and I have personally used and seen them used on quite a few cars with no problems.

If you look on the PSCA website there is a code you can use to save some money.

I'll look into it. I'm not sure what he's wanting to go with head gaskets now.

I just want my car back on the road!!!!! :bang: :D
 
i know exactly what u feel!
i have had my motor out 3 times since the first rebuild, still haven't had it to the track, i finally got it going again, my tweecer is dead so the fp will have to be raised to it wont run lean (i had the headers glowing, with 39psi)

the dipstick didnt read right because it got hit by the crank? just asking cause i got stock pan and dipstick...
 
i know exactly what u feel!
i have had my motor out 3 times since the first rebuild, still haven't had it to the track, i finally got it going again, my tweecer is dead so the fp will have to be raised to it wont run lean (i had the headers glowing, with 39psi)

the dipstick didnt read right because it got hit by the crank? just asking cause i got stock pan and dipstick...

The first time it hit the crank it didn't read right at all. It cut it off in two pieces, even with the FULL mark. We found the piece between the full and add oil mark. The tip is what was lost forever, only to be found a couple thousand miles later in the oil pump.

After the first engine pull due to the head gasket issue. We built a tube in the stock pan for the dipstick as a guide. It worked great except for one small issue. It scraped the oil off as you pulled the stick out. Making it completely worthless. Thus, why I now have a 7 qt. pan with the dipstick in the pan away from the crank.
 
Update: Looks like I'm back to the drawing board. I refused to pay my original builder for new parts to fix the many mistakes encountered during this PITA ordeal. I had a friend go pick up my pieces. So I'm researching my best next route. The crank needs to be turned again, the block really needs to be replaced to get the deck height back in specs. My new heads need to be reworked to get a new smooth surface. The bearings need replaced, HOPEFULLY my cam made it. It's just a big FUBAR mess. I may end up going with a DSS shortblock and worrying about what pieces are good and what's not with this other combo later. Salvage what I can and keep it or hock it all off. Very frustrating. :bang: