firewall adjuster/adjustable quadrant or not?

1987Rock

Member
May 2, 2007
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Ok, my King Cobra clutch just blew up :mad: so I just finished putting a new Zoom (which by the way is AMAZING!!!). Anyway, I got it put in and put a new stock replacement cable with the threads on the bellhousing end for adjustment and it works great except for a little pedal rattle. (which I'm fixing today)I also ordered a new summit quadrant with the 2 hooks and a summit firewall adjuster.

My question is whether to put those summit peices in or not? My setup works great and I just don't see the purpose of the other adjustable peices...

As far as the quadrant goes, all I can figure is that it makes the pedal throw shorter and more in line with the brake pedal, but I'm weary of doing this because I've got the setup pretty close now and I don't want to have to jack up the car and readjust everything again.

And I see absolutely no purpose in the firewall adjuster because all I see it doing is moving the casing of the cable? Is this all it does or does it serve a purpose?

I'm pretty well versed in cars, but this has me stumped...:shrug: Any help would be GREATLY appreciated:hail2:
 
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You're right - adding a FWA to a threaded cable is redundant. I would only add the new parts if you go with a true factory replacement cable (no threads) or a universal non-threaded cable (like MM's).

Good luck.
 
Ok thanks. Now as far as that vibration goes, I can't hear it anymore, but the pedal is still vibrating pretty bad. Ya know how it feels when you roll your tongue? That's how fast it's vibrating.
The new clutch fork I have is weighted so the only thing I can think of is that the weight makes it naturally push against the TOB. Any ideas?
 
Thats one thing ive NEVER understood about our cars, every other car iv had u replaced the clutch, put it all back together and drive off no problem.

Seems to me all this adjustability makes a simple process, complicated:rolleyes:
 
That's because our cars come with an auto adjusting quadrant. It's kind of plasticy and weak, so most people remove it and replace it with a solid quadrant. That's why they need to be adjusted. If you replaced the clutch and left the plastic auto adjuster in there, you wouldn't need to adjust it.

Kurt
 
So I'm not the only one with a vibrating pedal?
It's so bad when the car sits over night and gets cold that I can here the rattle, but once the clutch gets some heat in it, the sound goes away and the pedal doesn't vibrate as bad, but it's still vibrating enough to be annoying...

Will this go away once the clutch is broken in? It's a mulitfriction Zoom peice, so I know I have to go easy for 500 miles.