I'm trying to find out how to go fast as cheap as possible??
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V8SHME8
Member
Having owned a 90 GSX for a couple years I will say that while fast, I did struggle with reliability problems. I had a ton of blow by issues with that thing even with aftermarket rotating assembly. Perhaps you got a Wednesday car, but I did have some major issues trying to daily drive that thing.
My mustang has been excessively reliable. It is also a stock motor because I can not tolerate the suspension. I painted my car, roush brakes, and full maximum suspension on it. I did spend alot on it, but if you look at the cost of many other hobbies spending money on the mustang is not that unreasonable.
Though with that said, without hesitation the best way to spend your money right now is on a c5 fixed roof coupe or Z06. You also get the peace of mind knowing that it was not driven to the limit 100% of the time, and the lame previous owner simply covered it in zaino all day.
My mustang has been excessively reliable. It is also a stock motor because I can not tolerate the suspension. I painted my car, roush brakes, and full maximum suspension on it. I did spend alot on it, but if you look at the cost of many other hobbies spending money on the mustang is not that unreasonable.
Though with that said, without hesitation the best way to spend your money right now is on a c5 fixed roof coupe or Z06. You also get the peace of mind knowing that it was not driven to the limit 100% of the time, and the lame previous owner simply covered it in zaino all day.
Tanus
New Member
my buddy had a 90's gst (or whatever is the 2wd turbo) basicly bypassed the wastegate and the thing gained a ton of power, maxing the stock psi gauge. blew it up in like a week though, haha.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Nobody ever said you have to buy THE BEST parts money can buy for your car to have fun with it.
A couple years ago I owned a S-trimmed 95 GT with a stock longblock, eddy intake and supporting fuel/air goodies. Car made 425 reliable rwhp. My tuner said that it was running so well I could beat the snot out of it everyday with 13 psi and it would be fine. And trust me, I did just that! No blown head gaskets, detonation or anything! (a testament and a plug for HP Performance in Orange Park/Jax FL!)
That car was a BLAST to drive! Having aquired the car free from an insurance settlement and then spending all together about 3 grand for the blower, fuel setup and tune I can say it was a pretty good investment. Of course I fell on bad times and had to part ways with it, but I ended up selling the blower for 2600 bucks (because I polished it myself so I turned a slight profit! lol) and sold the car for 4500. Since I'm a cheap bastard I've gotten good over the years at trackind down the deals and saving a TON of money!
People will preach to you all the time on which way they think is RIGHT because it's what they read or it's what some shop with a hidden sales agenda TOLD them to do, I've learned that if you want to know the truth about how a combo will perform, sometimes you have to just go for it. That's what I did with my old 95 and guess what, I was really happy with the results.
And HankyGT, you listed all the parts and stuff a little more toward the high side. In this economy, you could fork out around 3 grand and hand most LS1's their a$$'s and that's a fact! Matter of fact, with my blown 95 GT I was only beaten by a LSx powered car ONCE and it was a Vette from a dead stop. Of course having spent ZERO $$ on my suspension or tires, everything went up in smoke, but from a roll, forget about it.
Every car is what you make of it. If you're having such a hard time with your Mustang, then sell the damn thing and buy what you want. No one to my knowledge is holding a gun to your head saying "DRIVE A MUSTANG OR ELSE!!!!". Most of us here are Mustang enthusiasts. It's in our DNA for some reason and we'd probably drive them if they really did suck, but I for one think you really get your money's worth when you buy a late model Mustang.
just my .02
A couple years ago I owned a S-trimmed 95 GT with a stock longblock, eddy intake and supporting fuel/air goodies. Car made 425 reliable rwhp. My tuner said that it was running so well I could beat the snot out of it everyday with 13 psi and it would be fine. And trust me, I did just that! No blown head gaskets, detonation or anything! (a testament and a plug for HP Performance in Orange Park/Jax FL!)
That car was a BLAST to drive! Having aquired the car free from an insurance settlement and then spending all together about 3 grand for the blower, fuel setup and tune I can say it was a pretty good investment. Of course I fell on bad times and had to part ways with it, but I ended up selling the blower for 2600 bucks (because I polished it myself so I turned a slight profit! lol) and sold the car for 4500. Since I'm a cheap bastard I've gotten good over the years at trackind down the deals and saving a TON of money!
People will preach to you all the time on which way they think is RIGHT because it's what they read or it's what some shop with a hidden sales agenda TOLD them to do, I've learned that if you want to know the truth about how a combo will perform, sometimes you have to just go for it. That's what I did with my old 95 and guess what, I was really happy with the results.
And HankyGT, you listed all the parts and stuff a little more toward the high side. In this economy, you could fork out around 3 grand and hand most LS1's their a$$'s and that's a fact! Matter of fact, with my blown 95 GT I was only beaten by a LSx powered car ONCE and it was a Vette from a dead stop. Of course having spent ZERO $$ on my suspension or tires, everything went up in smoke, but from a roll, forget about it.
Every car is what you make of it. If you're having such a hard time with your Mustang, then sell the damn thing and buy what you want. No one to my knowledge is holding a gun to your head saying "DRIVE A MUSTANG OR ELSE!!!!". Most of us here are Mustang enthusiasts. It's in our DNA for some reason and we'd probably drive them if they really did suck, but I for one think you really get your money's worth when you buy a late model Mustang.
just my .02
Putting a Trans pak or shift kit on your car will actually make the transmission last longer. Shorter shifts mean less clutch wear.
Kurt
Kurt
Hanky's mistake was trying to buy his car cheap in the first place...
He should have spent an extra $5000 in the beginning and bought SOMEONE ELSE's money pit.
I started my car $10K ahead of the game
Now for the OP's question, you REALLY cannot go wrong finding a USED Vortech.. I have found setups for under a grand, which isn't a whole lot more than a new nitrous kit, and you will reliably make 350 horsepower for years to come
He should have spent an extra $5000 in the beginning and bought SOMEONE ELSE's money pit.
I started my car $10K ahead of the game
Now for the OP's question, you REALLY cannot go wrong finding a USED Vortech.. I have found setups for under a grand, which isn't a whole lot more than a new nitrous kit, and you will reliably make 350 horsepower for years to come
Assuming the head unit isn’t toast.
I've seen more than a few S & SC Trim head units bite the dust at very low mileage because of premature wear. Just a "buyer beware" to check the unit over well and not assume that's its fine because the price is right.
Assuming the head unit isn’t toast.
I've seen more than a few S & SC Trim head units bite the dust at very low mileage because of premature wear. Just a "buyer beware" to check the unit over well and not assume that's its fine because the price is right.
Right..its taking a chance. TurboGT has the right idea too..its just some of us dont have the cash in hand and want the car now though..thats the trade off.
Hef5.0weisen
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
cut and pasted from MM&FF:
10-Minute Tune-Up
Approximate Cost: $50
Available From: Local Auto Parts Store
Ease of Installation: 4
The 10-Minute Tune-Up was first broke by MM&FF many years ago; the exact date of implementation is unknown. Essentially, former magazine scribe and now freelance extraordinaire Neil Van Oppre, along with former staffer Tony DiFeo, collected several popular modifications for a stock 5.0 and packaged them together as one group, affectionately called the 10-Minute Tune-Up. The package has taken on legendary status in the 5.0 world.
First on the list is bumping the ignition timing to anywhere from 13-15 degrees, with the spout out. Some cars like as much as 15 degrees of timing, while others can tolerate only 13. Other stuff on the list include dumping the air silencer assembly in the fenderwell and replacing the stock air filter with one from K&N. Icing the intake manifold in between dragstrip runs yields great results on a 5.0, or any car for that matter. Just be careful not to let the water puddle on the manifold and spill out under the car during a run down the dragstrip. Disconnecting and/or removing the front antisway bar helps weight transfer on the launch. It allows the nose to come up easier and plant the rear tires. Street driving is effected with this modification, and we suggest you reconnect/reinstall the antisway bar before leaving the track.
The final two mods are parts you can buy at the local auto-parts store. A 70.5-inch serpentine belt allows the power steering and alternator to be bypassed in an effort to save on parasitic loss. A 160-degree thermostat is also a staple on the 10-Minute Tune-Up list. It opens the radiator at 160 degrees rather than at 190 degrees (stock thermostat setting) to cool the engine sooner and help in between round cooldown.
---search on this forum for a proper belt size...I think this written in the Fox's heyday----
rest of the article...Drag Radial Tires Will Improve 60ft. Times - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
Ward...may go out on limb here, but I'm assuming you're a yougner man...
so here goes my wisdom, take it for what it's worth.....
1. it is extermely important to be able to stop faster than you are going...alot of us (to include myself) get these fancy go fast parts, I'm looking for even fancier stop fast parts...something to think about
2. again,assuming here, new to cars??? (the CAI install thread) you may want to get a haynes manual, learn about your car some. Before you get the go fast stuff, take care of the little nit/noid problems it may have, or if your car happens to be cherry, do a thorough tune up/ maintenance thrash on it. you can knock out a lot of the common mods while you're at it
3. be realistic about your goals...sure we all want a 1200hp stang, that corners on a dime, turns the ladies heads, and has paint so smooth you could use it as a shaving mirror...however thats usually not the case.
sorry if I'm preaching, just trying to push you down the right path (which is my opinion of right) ....yours may be different and if it is.... disregard.
in the end, have fun!
10-Minute Tune-Up
Approximate Cost: $50
Available From: Local Auto Parts Store
Ease of Installation: 4
The 10-Minute Tune-Up was first broke by MM&FF many years ago; the exact date of implementation is unknown. Essentially, former magazine scribe and now freelance extraordinaire Neil Van Oppre, along with former staffer Tony DiFeo, collected several popular modifications for a stock 5.0 and packaged them together as one group, affectionately called the 10-Minute Tune-Up. The package has taken on legendary status in the 5.0 world.
First on the list is bumping the ignition timing to anywhere from 13-15 degrees, with the spout out. Some cars like as much as 15 degrees of timing, while others can tolerate only 13. Other stuff on the list include dumping the air silencer assembly in the fenderwell and replacing the stock air filter with one from K&N. Icing the intake manifold in between dragstrip runs yields great results on a 5.0, or any car for that matter. Just be careful not to let the water puddle on the manifold and spill out under the car during a run down the dragstrip. Disconnecting and/or removing the front antisway bar helps weight transfer on the launch. It allows the nose to come up easier and plant the rear tires. Street driving is effected with this modification, and we suggest you reconnect/reinstall the antisway bar before leaving the track.
The final two mods are parts you can buy at the local auto-parts store. A 70.5-inch serpentine belt allows the power steering and alternator to be bypassed in an effort to save on parasitic loss. A 160-degree thermostat is also a staple on the 10-Minute Tune-Up list. It opens the radiator at 160 degrees rather than at 190 degrees (stock thermostat setting) to cool the engine sooner and help in between round cooldown.
---search on this forum for a proper belt size...I think this written in the Fox's heyday----
rest of the article...Drag Radial Tires Will Improve 60ft. Times - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
Ward...may go out on limb here, but I'm assuming you're a yougner man...
so here goes my wisdom, take it for what it's worth.....
1. it is extermely important to be able to stop faster than you are going...alot of us (to include myself) get these fancy go fast parts, I'm looking for even fancier stop fast parts...something to think about
2. again,assuming here, new to cars??? (the CAI install thread) you may want to get a haynes manual, learn about your car some. Before you get the go fast stuff, take care of the little nit/noid problems it may have, or if your car happens to be cherry, do a thorough tune up/ maintenance thrash on it. you can knock out a lot of the common mods while you're at it
3. be realistic about your goals...sure we all want a 1200hp stang, that corners on a dime, turns the ladies heads, and has paint so smooth you could use it as a shaving mirror...however thats usually not the case.
sorry if I'm preaching, just trying to push you down the right path (which is my opinion of right) ....yours may be different and if it is.... disregard.
in the end, have fun!
Adam95GT
New Member
Or if you like me... Just get a good set of rotors and pads... Skinnys have trouble getting over big brakes... and i dont trust small areospaces for some reason...
I guess ill name a few things to start you off:
Remove air silencer
bump timing to 14*
Weight Reduction
Shift Kit
Gears
Cheap Heads/intake (explorer parts for the heads and intake)
Cam (decent comp cam will get you far)
CIA
Headers, Midpipe, Exhaust... if you are really low on cash just go with the midpipe... thats your biggest gain
Big n littles
Dont waste cash on wings, hoods, bodykits... They dont make you faster... If you buy rims just buy a set of bigs n littles and swap them on at the track...
Biggest way to save money while going fast is to make a plan. Decide what you want to get out of your car... Make a plan toget there... I have bought parts several times... and it was dumb... Look for cheap used parts from people you trust...
I got ripped of more times then most for being a trusting guy...
Ill read this whole thread later.... but these are the things i think of when cheap and fast... A set up like this will push 280-300 rwhp... with the right came and dont forget money for a tune
JJ95GTID
Active Member
Don't remember who here said this but it is a sad truth.
1) Cheap
2) Fast
3) Reliable
You only get to pick 2 of the above.
1) Cheap
2) Fast
3) Reliable
You only get to pick 2 of the above.
Tanus
New Member
timming bunp, tps set right and weght reduction= free HP. most stangs weigh like 3,200-3,400 mine weighs 2900. Huge difference.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Timing bumps were nice in the fox cars, but if I raise my timing anywhere above 10* it'll ping like crazy! And this is post balancer swap and seafoam! These cars just hate increased timing for some reason...
Adam95GT
New Member
I assume its hot in FL lol... pinging for me always occurs when its hot out... when its cold and i ran 93 octane in the vert with 14* it ran perfect no ping... untill it got 95+ outside...
Same experience. I never had any problem bumping the timing up until it got hot.
Kurt
Tanus
New Member
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Are you running stock E7 heads?
Adam, I'm not going spend all that extra money on gas for a couple of horsepower. I put mid grade in my car, but it has almost 200k miles on it, I'm sure this motor looks like crap inside and that's probably contributing to it's pinging. Still, I've never been able to raise the timing much in any of my SN 95's. On my 93 I could get away with 16* with no problem. I guess that A9L computer sucks huh!?!?!
Adam95GT
New Member
mine had over 230k when i decided to take it off the road... if you look at my long block its clean as hell...
im trying to find out how to go fast as cheap as possible?? anything?i already got CAI 4.10 GEARS, automatic though
You don't need to spend a fortune to go fast. I chose my mods carefully and with a fairly modest budget, my Stang does mid-13's and handles great. With a Vortech V2-SQ blower and a higher rpm stall torque converter I could hit low 12's.
Weight Reduction always helps.
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