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Night Shifter
Well-Known Member
they are chit....i, unfortunatly, in desperate need had to by them for my car...i myself have had no problems with them yet other then wehn i installed them i had to line the pins up in the connectors correctly to plug them into the harness cause they were all out of whack...
on the other hand, tons of people buy them from where i work..99% of those people have to send 1 or more coil back due to it not working...keep that in mind before you buy them...if you want to go aftermarket, buy either msd(which really isnt much better) or weapon X... weapon X seems to have a great design going on
on the other hand, tons of people buy them from where i work..99% of those people have to send 1 or more coil back due to it not working...keep that in mind before you buy them...if you want to go aftermarket, buy either msd(which really isnt much better) or weapon X... weapon X seems to have a great design going on
SteedaGT9150
Advanced Member
meh, i asked around before i bought them and nobody has had any complaints. ive been running them for almost a year and they have been great.
Night Shifter
Well-Known Member
my car felt a little smoother after putting them on but im still a little scared of them lol
theyll look good with your yellow car at least
theyll look good with your yellow car at least
RedDaemon
10 Year Member
ive been using motoblues for 2 years now. sure people hate rpmoutlet but i didnt have issue with them
EDIT: i dont think rpmoutlet sells mine anymore or they renamed them to WeaponX. I know I didnt pay $400 for them thats for sure..
EDIT: i dont think rpmoutlet sells mine anymore or they renamed them to WeaponX. I know I didnt pay $400 for them thats for sure..
StangSims39
Member
i was wondering the same thing with the ACCELS, but some have said unless you have an issue with some current packs that its just a waste...:\ how are the GMS?
2006KJ
New Member
Thats the problem I have. Im experiencing the dreaded COP issue that seems to be pretty common on the 4.6 2V's.
I really really dont want to be spend $350+ on coils. The ACCEL's are $190 from Summit
flstang65
10 Year Member
StangSims39
Member
I mean i think they are cheaper than getting the OEM COPS, you could just go for them and see how they work, if they dont then chock it up to epxerience, but there seem to be mixed reviews on these, like anything else, some hate and have horrible experience, others think they are the best product in the world, its just going to boil down to your preference, i would check out accels warrentee, make sure that if there is a problem you can get your money back, then just go with stockers, or save up for the msd or GMS cops....
Night Shifter
Well-Known Member
FWIW, ford wants $98 a piece for the OEM motorcraft COP's.... so unless you want to spend $780ish for new cop's, id go with msd or weapon X...who knows, maybe youll even get lucky with the accells
joshjwc9
Active Member
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
I think HV coils would be a waste unless your setup requires them.
The voltage required to ionize the plug gap and to establish an arc is largely a function of the plug gap and electrode condition and of the environment (e.g. mixture ratio, pressure etc) between the electrodes. As compression pressure goes up, so does the voltage requirement, all else being equal. This is typically seen when running, say, a blower. When a spark is "blown out", it's not really "blow out" but rather the problem is that the coil cannot generate the voltage required to establish an arc. This can actually damage the coil because while the HV cannot jump the plug gap, it can damage the insulation within the coil itself. A typical fix on FI engines is to reduce the gap from 0.054 to 0.030 or so to bring the arc-point voltage down. In this situation, a HV coil may be beneficial to allow the running of a larger gap thus exposing more AF mix to the arc and further reducing the chance of misfires and emissions issues (e.g. unburnt HCs).
However, because the voltage requirement is set down in the chamber, the extra capacity to generate HV is wasted on engines with running conditions that don't require it. If 25kV is the arc-point, that's how high the voltage will climb before the discharge occurs. If the factory coil is good to 35kV, running a coil capable of generating 50kV won't give any benefit if the arc-point is only 25kV. The benefit comes from situations where conditions require, say, 40kV and the coil is only good to 35kV...
In addition, coils are transformers and thus have primary and secondary windings. In order to generate that much higher secondary voltage, one can change a few parameters in the design of the coil. Additional secondary windings are the typical way. However, more windings may mean a thinner gauge of wire which is more fragile and which will also have a higher secondary resistance. This may mean increased operating temperatures in the coil (I^2R losses) and perhaps even reduced arc current.
Bottom line, IMHO: If you are normally aspirated and the OE coils are otherwise performing normally, leave them. If you're FI, reduce the gap to the minimum required to prevent misfires and/or consider a quality HV coil to allow an increase in gap again.
The voltage required to ionize the plug gap and to establish an arc is largely a function of the plug gap and electrode condition and of the environment (e.g. mixture ratio, pressure etc) between the electrodes. As compression pressure goes up, so does the voltage requirement, all else being equal. This is typically seen when running, say, a blower. When a spark is "blown out", it's not really "blow out" but rather the problem is that the coil cannot generate the voltage required to establish an arc. This can actually damage the coil because while the HV cannot jump the plug gap, it can damage the insulation within the coil itself. A typical fix on FI engines is to reduce the gap from 0.054 to 0.030 or so to bring the arc-point voltage down. In this situation, a HV coil may be beneficial to allow the running of a larger gap thus exposing more AF mix to the arc and further reducing the chance of misfires and emissions issues (e.g. unburnt HCs).
However, because the voltage requirement is set down in the chamber, the extra capacity to generate HV is wasted on engines with running conditions that don't require it. If 25kV is the arc-point, that's how high the voltage will climb before the discharge occurs. If the factory coil is good to 35kV, running a coil capable of generating 50kV won't give any benefit if the arc-point is only 25kV. The benefit comes from situations where conditions require, say, 40kV and the coil is only good to 35kV...
In addition, coils are transformers and thus have primary and secondary windings. In order to generate that much higher secondary voltage, one can change a few parameters in the design of the coil. Additional secondary windings are the typical way. However, more windings may mean a thinner gauge of wire which is more fragile and which will also have a higher secondary resistance. This may mean increased operating temperatures in the coil (I^2R losses) and perhaps even reduced arc current.
Bottom line, IMHO: If you are normally aspirated and the OE coils are otherwise performing normally, leave them. If you're FI, reduce the gap to the minimum required to prevent misfires and/or consider a quality HV coil to allow an increase in gap again.
I have a 99 & 2 went bad I put on ones from the junkyard then another so I bought a set from e-bay $200 that was about 5 years ago & no problems since.. they said Lightning I dont know if they still sell them they had no writing on then ? but are fine ....seems like lots of the OEM go bad & some dont so yes I would go for a new set & not OEM ....they dont like water so washing engines is a no-no ..... maybe some guys will chime in about the ones you asked about , good luck
I went through two sets of Accels, and will never buy an Accel product again. They are total crap! I had a bad one right out of the box! I just went through hell in a handbasket trying to figure out why my car was running so bad under load, and it ended up being those stupid coils. A million parts later, I replaced the coils with new Motorcrafts and all is well. It runs SO much better. The Accels were great for me for almost a year, then the idle got slightly rough. About a month later, it would REALLY crackle and pop under deceleration. A few weeks after that started, it was just crap.
RedDaemon
10 Year Member
Good thing i have kept my motorcraft COPs..mine crackles and pops like you stated but its never gotten worse than that. Every once in a while, the misfire will come about...typically on a cool (~65), but humid day
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