where to install temp sensor for electric fans
- Thread starter rolandj
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
thats what i figured it sounded absurd . I tried it in thermostat housing but the sensor is too long. where is the extra port on the lower intake manifold. I am running gt40. thanks
mustangmutt
Member
The factory Mustang intake has two threaded ports on the rear of the intake. One is used for the coolant hose that goes to the EGR spacer. The other one is on the driver side rear and is plugged off from the factory. I used that one. But when I changed to the 97' Explorer intake I had to drill and tap a hole in the same place.
Beasty306GT
Active Member
mustangmutt
Member
NO, see the two flat spots in the casting just in front of the rear bolt holes? You will have to drill and tap one of them for the switch if you cannot use the T'stat housing.
You could also try using a hose coupler kinda like this one (choose the appropriate size for your application):
Auto Meter 2283 - Auto Meter Radiator Hose Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Auto Meter 2283 - Auto Meter Radiator Hose Adapters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
that may work thanks. I wonder if there is an extention for t stat housing to raise it up a lil bit?
Beasty306GT
Active Member
u can use a 3/8 close brass nipple with a 3/8 brass coupling it should bring the sensore up where it needs to be...or you can get one of these Auto Meter
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
I had trouble putting mine in the t stat housing.. The fan wouldn't turn on fast enough. Your better off putting it the intake like previously stated. You will have to take the intake off to drill and tap but it works better cause the sensor is actually reading the engine temp all the time instead of having to wait for the thermostat to open.
Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender: Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
With a conventional on/off fan controller, the fan should not come on till the temp is at least 10*F higher than the stat's fully-open temp (i.e. for balanced 180 t-stat, the fan would come on at 200-195 and go off at 190-188*).
There's too much hysteresis to space them closer together. And thus, the fan will never be on unless the t-stat is fully open anyhow (and if the stat doesn't open, the fan ain't gonna help anyhow).
well finally got sensor in i used a cpoupling w a nipple in the therm housing. On to the next issue. Anyone have a prob w the electric fans being close to the supercharger pulley? and second I need hold downs for rad anyone one know where to get a set ? I dont know what I did w stock ones or if they would even work. I had a polished one piece rad hold down but with the electric fans the top surface is smooth and no place to hook onto. you think for $1800 they would give you hold downs 
I have mine in the t-stat housing and works great. Had you put it in the rear of the intake it would take a while for the fans to kick in. I have an autometer temp gauge running off of the front port and the factory gauge off of the rear port. The factory gauge is always much slower to come up to temp.
Barry
Barry
Similar threads
