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I am doing a duraspark 2 swap in my 68 289. The parts are from a -84 5.0 GT. I am very confused about the wiring of the red and white wires going into the ignition box. The -84 wiring diagram shows the white wire connected to cable 16 coming from the ignition switch, and the red wire connected...

Unisteer don't do any quality test of their R&P's, they only assemble them and check that they move. The answer from tech support was, that I should drive 500 miles and see if there is a difference. The pinion and rack normally needs to "wear in". This rack goes out as soon as I get some money...

I purchased the #995 addco 3/4" rear sway bar for my 68 stang. I am pretty sure that the sway bar must be installed behind the rear axle with the arms pointing forward. But I run into some issues. The bar is slightly too narrow, so that the bushings and u-brackets won't match with the frames...

Ok, I finally had some time to work on my stang and work on the r&p bind problem. I decided to try to disconnect the rack to check if the problem could be inside the rack. So, I raised the car in the air and removed the connecting shaft. And guess what! When I grabbed the wheel and turned it...

Ok. The u-joints are not touching. But I agree that the angle looks too steep. Good idea about checking the rack itself. I will do that. Thanks.

I have tried with the u-joints 90 deg out of phase, and in-phase. In-phase gave an improvement, but still not good. After laying under the car and rotating the shaft trying to figure out where it moves heavier and where lighter, I then rotated the upper u-joint 3-4 splines. That did not give any...

The car is in the air, but with the suspension loaded. But that should not matter for the problem with the u-joints. Unisteer is stating that the u-joints must be phased 90deg. However Steeroids states that they should be installed the same way, otherwise the shaft will get the shape of and S...

So, I have installed the unisteer manual rack. Now I have an issue with the lower u-joint binding in a certain position. How can I fix that problem?

The main difference, if I understand correctly, between the newer and older version is the bracket holding the steering arms. On the older version the steering arms are connected directly to the rack, and not via any additional bracket. This makes the older version more robust and reliable in my...

So I did, and got an answer that the # 8001090-01 is a improved version which clears headers and manual transmission. I did not get any answer on the huge price difference.

Anyone knows what is the difference between the Unisteer rack & pinion, product code # 8000880-01 ($625) compared to product code # 8001090-01 ($1050), except the $425 price difference?? Both are for the 68-70 mustang.

I searched the archives, but did not find any info on using a must II rack in a classic, only aftermarket racks. As I have not purchased the rack yet, I basically wanted to know whether it's feasible or not use the rack from a Mustang II. However, I think I will skip the thought and go...

Does anyone have experience of fitting a Mustang II rack & pinion in a classic mustang? :scratch: What modifications are needed? Can the old power steering pump be used or is it better to fit the pump from the Mustang II? Comments on steering response, sloppyness, etc.? Links, pictures...

You forgot the fuel pump, LOL...:nice:

Thanks PoppyMod for the fast answers! I noted the PCV connection when starting to look closer at my edelbrock :)

I am about to replace my old autolite 2V carb and manifold with a edelbrock 500cfm and a weiand stealth on my 289 engine. I want to get the following things cleared out before I proceed: 1. Does it matter on which side I connect the vacuum for the auto transmission? 2. The crankcase...

I measured the distance between wheels in front and back today, and I discovered that the mustang is ~4 inches wider in the back. In that case I could go with 17x8 4,75" bs in the back and 17x8 4" bs in the front. Does this sound doable??

In the front I have enough clearance, so the problem is only with the rear wheels. I also noted that both rear fenders have been replaced at some point in time. The reason could of course also relate to that.

Did the fronts sticking out too much, cause any other problems(like rubbing) than visual apperance? Strange that e.g. Mustangsunlimited are recommending the 17x8 with 4" backspace for early mustangs. Mustangs Unlimited - '65-73 Mustang Parts & '65-70 Shelby Performance, Restoration and...

Hi, I got a set of AR TT2s 17x8 with 4" backspace for my 68HT. Can anyone tell whether the 4" backspace will cause problems with the tire rubbing the fender, or will it be ok? What tires are recommended? I was thinking of 235/45R17. Thanks!