The 94-95 regulator connector will have the white/black wire with it. Splice the white/black wire on the regulator plug to the white/black wire with the field connector on it.
Michael Yount said:The instructions that came with my PA-performance alternator were simple, clear and excellent. I had the wiring changed very quickly/easily. I think I've still got them. Daggar if you think that's helpful, let me know and I'll scan/email them to you. THey may be on their website.
Michael Yount said:Also, no more current can go through the 10 gauge wires than is being drawn through them. With other devices drawing their current directly from the alternator or the battery - I still don't see the potential problem -even in the worst case. Seems to me the worst case is major short from battery to ground - in which case you need a fusible link on the hot side of the battery. Don't know what the Stang system does with that. I added one when I relocated the battery - seems a good standard practice. It's gotta be big enough to manage starting current though.
Michael Yount said:Think about what you're saying Daggar - any 'tap' into the 10 gauges has the same potential as if they're connected to the alternator. Your additional accessories aren't gonna be fed by those wires. But, at the end of the day, do what makes you feel the most comfortable.
Yeah don't use the 10g wire on the batt. side. I thought you were talking about the harness side. I would just tape it off and not worry about it. If the alt. doesn't "pump" out current on that side and draws power like someone else said then it really wouldnt make a diff. But I would error on the side of caution and just tape the 10G off and go with one 4G wire with a fuse a little larger than your alt. capacity.Daggar said:This helps to illustrate what I'm trying to say:
Assuming we have anough accessories to overcome the carrying capacity of the 10 guage wire and the fuse for the 4 guage wire blows then we're in dutch. With the 4 guage path closed off, there's only one other path for current to follow. With the fan running and taking juice from the battery the replacement for that current draw is going to come directly from the alternator. The reduction in power caused by the battery due to the power draw from the fan is going to allow more current to run from the alternator tothe battery. So long as fan continues to run, the current increase allong the wire from the alternator to the battery is going to be significant. That's why I believe that it's important that the the 10 guage wire either be not used, or protected.
Daggar said:Try hosting this one so that it will fit in frame:
Michael Yount said:Still see it differently than you - if your aftermarket stuff is wired off the battery or alternator and not the fuse box, the 10 gauges won't pull anymore than they can right now. With your schematic, the ONLY thing protected by the fusible link is the cable between it and the alternator. If you want to protect the 10 gauge (which I don't think is necessary) you have to get a link between those and the battery too. If the alt. link goes, then the 10 gauges can still theoretically try to draw the overload just sourced by the battery instead of the alternator. Look at your drawing without the alt. there - battery can just as easily overwhelm the 10 gauges as the alternator can. Another fusible link coming off the battery hot is the only way to offer anymore protection than you already have. But you need to do what you think is best.
if your aftermarket stuff is wired off the battery or alternator and not the fuse box, the 10 gauges won't pull anymore than they can right now.
Michael Yount said:I don't see how your second drawing protects the 10 gauge any differently than it's protected now, unless you get a link in it too. In any event, sounds like you're clear what you want to do - so good luck with the changes.
Michael Yount said:I guess I'm wondering how much current the alternator's gonna put out at all if it shorts out internally.
Michael Yount said:jrichker gets at what I'm trying to get at guys - unless there's a dead short from battery to ground pulsing throught the 10 gauge - you don't have a problem. And every Stang (most other cars too) are already pregnant with that problem. The only way to protect it is to fuse the 10gauge wires also - whether they're connected to the alternator or the battery. BTW - my PA-Performance alternator came with a boot for that power stud. You'd have to poke through it with something sharp - although Murphy's law says I could probably manage it.
Daggar - "...because if the fuse between the alternator and battery blows then the alternator's ability to feed the battery goes with it. " Absolutely. But nothing protects the BATTERY from feeding the 10 gauge in drawing. Even if the alternator goes the battery can still provide the current.