Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by candphall, Jul 9, 2013.
Robert91 were you commenting on the weld pictures I attached of the ones from the web you posted? Thanks for your input.
I was commenting on the pic that i attached... Looking at your welds it looks like you voltage isnt high enough or your going too slow... Do you have a pressure gauge for your gas, if so what is it set at?
Got it, a preassure guage is attached and the working pressure is about 15psi. It is 18 guage steel. Thanks again.
What is the go to solid wire size for mig welding every thing from floor pans to torque boxes. I'm thinking .030 but is that to heavy for 18 guage floor pans.
.030 is good ..025 is better for sheet metal but .030 will work. the welding shop used to carry auto body wire ,that was the best but they quit caring it.
Today I received a tool that I have found invaluable. It is a sheet metal guage. I found that in my welding practice the practice sheetmetal was two guages thinner than I thought. After adjusting the welder to the new settings the welds are getting much better. I orderd the guage from Eastwood, best 15 bucks I ever spent. Welding on the mustang next week.
Well you have to start at some point. I have studied every photo on the internet regarding welding and have determined don't look as good as some but are better than others. Today I welded in the right rocker extension and the inner cowl patch that I made. The welds are not visually appealing but they all have good penetration and after some post welding pulling and hammering I am convinced that they are structurally sound. Next is the torque box. And finish grinding.
the heavier metal you may be able to go a little hotter without worry of burn through .the lighter will be a little harder .as long as you have good penetration looks don't mater all that much ,that's what a grinder is forit will get easier the more welding you do .looking good
Any recommendations on seem sealer?
3M tan seam sealer in a caulking tube .it can be brushed if needed . any automotive paint supply shop will have it .It looks just like the original when dry
The torque box is complete, the rocker extension is installed. And the fire wall patch panel is welded in place. My welds aren't pretty,although they are getting better. With that being said I pity the next guy who has to remove what I welded in.
Next is the toe board which is about to go under the hammer, then the pan. Then the drivers side.
Not bad at all . You should see some of the bird droppings i have had to grind off of cars i bought . the welds are just laying there ,and some times i can knock them off with a hammer . as long as you can see some blistering in the back side of the weld you have good penetration .on thin metal i stitch weld ,that it a spot weld after spot weld .when you get good at it , they will look like it is tig welded .
stitch welding helps stop burn through on thin metal.
Seam sealing. I was talking to a friend who is also a lobster fisherman living in Maine. He is getting a 73 Sport roof back on the road. Being in the Marine business he sealed all of his welded seams with,
3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200
It is less expensive than the 3M seam sealer in the metal tube. Any thoughts?
Water proof. that should work good.
Read the directions on the 3M seam sealer and it says not to use over acid etch primer. The acid in the primer will eventually deteriorate the sealer. I was under the impression that the acid in the primer would not be a factor once dry.
I usually seal as bare metal then primer over .
i would hope the acid would not be a problem,What happens when you paint over it?
I agree, I usually don't read directions but I was board. 3o degrees here in Orlando no sealing until it warms up.
70* here in Cali. ,no rain in sight . I have 4 almost ready for paint but i am afraid to try it .If the temp changes on me , and i just know it would ,it could screw things up and cost me a bundle . Going to stick to sheet metal repair for now ,at least until March.