70NE's custom EFI conversion writeup - Part 1

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jbuening said:
Do you know if the ACCEL throttle bodies will work that Summit Racing sells? IIRC they are around $400 and are 1000cfm+ :shrug:


It'll work with ANY throttle body. Just like it'll work with ANY fuel injectors, if you can bolt it on the megasquirt can be programmed with it. Throttle bodies don't really interface with the ECU anyways...only the TPS does. Megasquirt can be programmed to work with all TPS sensors.
 
70_Nitrous_Eater said:
Fuel filters:
attachment.php


You’ll want to run a fuel filter (or 2) in your fuel system. I chose to use 2 filters. A high volume low pressure (top) “pre filter” and a high pressure low volume (bottom) after filter. The larger filter is a generic summit brand and cost $10, the smaller filter is made by earls performance and cost $30. Both were ordered from summit racing. The key thing with fuel filters is to make sure they can handle the pressure and that they have the fittings you need.

Alternatives:
- No pre filter (saves $10)
- Only pre filter (saves $30)

Are you sure it is a good idea to use the Earl's filter you selected after the pump? At close to 40 psi or so, do you really want to rely on a couple of hose clamps to seal the lines. You might be better off using an OE filter from a late model Ford and the duckbill line connections. This stuff is shown on the Ron Morris web site.

I placed an order for this kit last week, http://www.mass-floefi.com/index.html I spent most of Saturday and Sunday going over instructions, wiring diagrams, and catalogs trying to pick out the best fuel pump and filters for my system. Dollar for dollar and from a safety stand point, the OE filter is real hard to beat, add in its size relative to the 5" by 3 1/2" monsters that others offer. If it is located carefully, nobody would know that is what you are using.

I'm not trying to be a wise guy, just trying to help, Jeff
 
66HertzClone said:
Are you sure it is a good idea to use the Earl's filter you selected after the pump? At close to 40 psi or so, do you really want to rely on a couple of hose clamps to seal the lines.

66HertzClone
TBI systems/fuel injectors run between 15-20 psi so that filter and hose barb connector should be fine.

Nitrous Eater

Great writeup. I will be converting my fastback to efi using ms this winter as well.

When I put my board together I found that the 9 volt on the stim will not last very long. Use an old power supply for a cell phone or other device. Once the power drops off the 9 volt the squirt appears to do weird things.

Good luck
RV
 
66HertzClone said:
Are you sure it is a good idea to use the Earl's filter you selected after the pump? At close to 40 psi or so, do you really want to rely on a couple of hose clamps to seal the lines. You might be better off using an OE filter from a late model Ford and the duckbill line connections. This stuff is shown on the Ron Morris web site.

I placed an order for this kit last week, http://www.mass-floefi.com/index.html I spent most of Saturday and Sunday going over instructions, wiring diagrams, and catalogs trying to pick out the best fuel pump and filters for my system. Dollar for dollar and from a safety stand point, the OE filter is real hard to beat, add in its size relative to the 5" by 3 1/2" monsters that others offer. If it is located carefully, nobody would know that is what you are using.

I'm not trying to be a wise guy, just trying to help, Jeff

Thanks Jeff.

The holley injectors in my TBI unit have a maximum pressure of only 21PSI. And from what I've heard from other people doing conversions is that regular hose clamps will work for 60PSI no problem.

However, if I was going to go with a hard line or a proper aircraft quality braided line (needed for anything more than 40PSI) I would definately go with a filter that had threaded connectors of some sort.
 
rhyno9 said:
66HertzClone
TBI systems/fuel injectors run between 15-20 psi so that filter and hose barb connector should be fine.

Nitrous Eater

Great writeup. I will be converting my fastback to efi using ms this winter as well.

When I put my board together I found that the 9 volt on the stim will not last very long. Use an old power supply for a cell phone or other device. Once the power drops off the 9 volt the squirt appears to do weird things.

Good luck
RV

Yeah, already I'm seeing the battery voltage drop to as low as 6V. I do plan on using an old power supply like you mentioned.
 
68rustang said:
could you post links to the auctions for some of the items you bought on ebay?

I need a connector kit like you have pictured as well as some of that fuel line.


For the weatherpack connectors, just do an ebay motors search for "weatherpack" you should find a few matches. Here's an example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weat...oryZ6763QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

For the fuel line, do an ebay motors search on "braided fuel"
Here's a link to the exact same product I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAI...012538753QQcategoryZ42604QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
This is so cool.

I'm going to begin parts collecting for EFI. Does Zone have a website with all this posted in one place? Well I guess it's posted here. I'm probably going to print it all off for quick reference.
 
Whew, I looked at prices for everything today. I have the throttle body and am going to buy 100 worth a month till I have everything. That's the plan anyway. I might wind up buying a new carb in the meantime. The carb I have now is blowing fuel out after the engine is shut off. This is happening below the fuel bowls somewhere. I'm figuring there is a crack in the carb's body somewhere.
 
Whew, I looked at prices for everything today. I have the throttle body and am going to buy 100 worth a month till I have everything. That's the plan anyway. I might wind up buying a new carb in the meantime. The carb I have now is blowing fuel out after the engine is shut off. This is happening below the fuel bowls somewhere. I'm figuring there is a crack in the carb's body somewhere.

Sucks about the carb!

You don't need to buy everything right away. You could start with the ECU and wiring... that way you can at least do things like datalogging, and start learning about the ECU, etc. Then when you have the money you can start adding sensors (for better datalogging), and eventually move to spark only (this should be cheap because you can keep all of your existing components), and finally both spark and fuel control.
 
Hells yes. Come on here looking for this thread, and it's right here. How cool is that ? Probably be the last time I take her out before doing this. Want to get a good handle on this before throwing the cooler on and more power. E85 I'm sure is going to just add to it. Thanx for the excellent write up Kalvin. I'm sure we'll be doing some talking :)
 
Hells yes. Come on here looking for this thread, and it's right here. How cool is that ? Probably be the last time I take her out before doing this. Want to get a good handle on this before throwing the cooler on and more power. E85 I'm sure is going to just add to it. Thanx for the excellent write up Kalvin. I'm sure we'll be doing some talking :)


Good luck buddy! I'll certainly help where I can.

Have you decided what equipment you're going to use yet?

My advice at this point: Read through the megamanual, and this time pay particular attention to the MSII assembly instructions. There are about 4 or 5 spots where you have a choice of what subset of instructions to assemble your MSII correctly for the hardware you are using. Usually option A,B, or C. Read through ahead of time and make sure you understand what hardware you are using and what subset of instuctions to follow when it's time to assemble the unit.

If your not assembling it yourself, make sure you understand what way you want it assembled so that whoever assembles it for you does it correctly.


For example:
Stepper Idle Air Control (IAC), Fast idle solienoid, or PWM IAC?
Direct coil control, TFI/HEI, EDIS or ???
Low or High Impedence Injectors?