95 GT long cranks/rough

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Your replacing quality parts with Chinese junk. You are making more problems down the road.

Kurt

That's why I said for aesthetic reasons on the MSD coil. I have the cap and rotor already, the car is red, and I was going for a red/polished theme under the hood. I will probably still get the Performance Distributor Screamin Demon coil and TFI module.
 
yea a performance tfi helps a bit not a lot but its slightly noticeable and does look a lot nicer. they last longer also because theyre less likely to short out due to heat. like i said make sure you use the thermal compound on the back side. after that you should be fine. if not let check your pip in the distributor if you havnt already
 
yea a performance tfi helps a bit not a lot but its slightly noticeable and does look a lot nicer. they last longer also because theyre less likely to short out due to heat. like i said make sure you use the thermal compound on the back side. after that you should be fine. if not let check your pip in the distributor if you havnt already

The distributor is new. Literally, the only things I have not replaced are the TFI, wires, coil, and injectors (if you want to go that far). I will try timing with a warm motor this weekend, replacing the SPOUT connector with the motor running. I will say the car runs like never before, the cold starts are just annoying.
 
Timing the engine warm is a must. With the spout out engine speed won't matter as the PCM can't affect the timing but shouldn't be necessary with a warm engine. TPS volts with the throttle closed on the EEC-IV PCM can be between .65v - 1.25. The adaptive strategy will allow the PCM to learn the idle volts between these limits. However, a mid point of about .95-1.0 volts is the norm for a good TPS. The stock TPS on these cars are not adjustable as they were on the earlier years. Do not play with the idle stop screw as this will affect the TPS voltage and they are factory preset. There is nothing to suggest a problem with the TFI module. An small idle surge is probably due to a slow response from the IAC valve. Could be dirty or just getting old.
 
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Timing the engine warm is a must. With the spout out engine speed won't matter as the PCM can't affect the timing but shouldn't be necessary with a warm engine. TPS volts with the throttle closed on the EEC-IV PCM can be between .65v - 1.25. The adaptive strategy will allow the PCM to learn the idle volts between these limits. However, a mid point of about .95-1.0 volts is the norm for a good TPS. The stock TPS on these cars are not adjustable as they were on the earlier years. Do not play with the idle stop screw as this will affect the TPS voltage and they are factory preset. There is nothing to suggest a problem with the TFI module. An small idle surge is probably due to a slow response from the IAC valve. Could be dirty or just getting old.

I'll give this a shot. Thanks!
 
Timing the engine warm is a must. With the spout out engine speed won't matter as the PCM can't affect the timing but shouldn't be necessary with a warm engine. TPS volts with the throttle closed on the EEC-IV PCM can be between .65v - 1.25. The adaptive strategy will allow the PCM to learn the idle volts between these limits. However, a mid point of about .95-1.0 volts is the norm for a good TPS. The stock TPS on these cars are not adjustable as they were on the earlier years. Do not play with the idle stop screw as this will affect the TPS voltage and they are factory preset. There is nothing to suggest a problem with the TFI module. An small idle surge is probably due to a slow response from the IAC valve. Could be dirty or just getting old.

I timed the car once it was warm, and everything seems to be good to go. I ended up backing off a degree or two. The only (slight) problem now is when I turn on the A/C, the RPM's drop off for a second and then whenever the thermostat kicks on. This is only at idle though.