Another mass air question

I am in the middle of finally doing my gt40 intake swap, along with the in fender cold air, and 65mm TB. My mass air is the standard small unit and will be the only small item left. I have a 70mm mass air out of a 97 stang with the v6. Can I just swap my sensor and cut the bolt flange out of the 97 maf? Or should I cut the center section out also so the sample tube is all that remains? I guess I wont need to drill out the tube if I am staying with the 19# sprayers? I have tried to search. Here is a link that might help you see where I am at if your confused.
http://www.cintcc.com/mn12performance/mn12how-to/maf/maf.htm

One more thing about the EGR. I want to delete it and wonder if the kit I seen on ebay would work for the throttle cable support? Hate to find out the hard way that it wont work. My car is a 86 gt with the 5.0

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-87...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
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The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
Try AutoZone and ask for 81413 - Spectre / 3 in. Aluminum Intake Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter at $12.00. You may have to order it online.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.


The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration. In other words, your 97 MAF probably won't match the calibration of your 5.0 Mustang computer.
 
The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
Try AutoZone and ask for 81413 - Spectre / 3 in. Aluminum Intake Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter at $12.00. You may have to order it online

The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration. In other words, your 97 MAF probably won't match the calibration of your 5.0 Mustang computer.

K so I can adapt this one the way you said to without cutting the bolt flange off and it would still be cheaper then buying another maf. What bugs me since I cant use the sensor I already have that is matched with my computer. Will I then need to get a computer or a chip burned? Will it not be the same to just use the sensor I already have that is matched and hope it works and if not then tune and or burn a chip? My stock maf really its a pos, and with the heads and cam swap it runs like crap to start with.

I am putting on a adjustable fuel regulator and pressure gauge also to help tune it. If that would help at all.

I am trying to do this as cheap as I can. Shoe string budget all the way.
 
Leave the egr...saves you from having to buy adapters plates and such. No gain to be had for deletinging it. Spend the money on a maf instead

Well the intake is off the 2000 exploder and the car has no smog stuff on it anyways. So if I wanted to keep the EGR I would have to get another spacer since the Tb is also off the exploder and is now 65mm.

Here in the Midwest its easy to get tags. Just walk in and pay $25. No sales tax if u tell them it cost $2500 or less. :nice:
 
Leave the egr...saves you from having to buy adapters plates and such. No gain to be had for deletinging it. Spend the money on a maf instead

You can make your own block off plate VERY easily. 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum sheet. Use an EGR valve gasket and trace the outline and bolt holes onto the aluminum. If you have access to a band saw, you can use that to cut out the outline, if not, with a little patience you can do it with a hack saw. Drill the holes out and buff the sharp edges, bada-bing, you have a homemade block off plate. Mine is scratch-built, but I had access to a CNC mill, so mine is nice and straight. :D
 
There have been guys that have used the 94/95 MAF without a chip with proper A/F ratio.

Of course i can't find any of them now, but it's been done.

I'm running the 94/95 MAF myself.
 
There have been guys that have used the 94/95 MAF without a chip with proper A/F ratio.

Of course i can't find any of them now, but it's been done.

I'm running the 94/95 MAF myself.

Okay I am convinced now that I have the wrong one. Listed it on ebay an hour ago if anyone wants it (70mm 94-2000 MAF). Also have the 55mm stock one.

Thanks for the info. Still not sure on the delete as far as the cables go. Guess I can get the 1" and if it dont work, just make it work. Thanks for the help people.
 
No burning a chip is not easy, and to pay someone just to burn a chip for your mods prob wouldn't be worth it. I didn't notice any gain at the track changing to the 94-95 Maf without changing the Maf transfer.if you put one on I would get the car dynoed with a air fuel printout just to be safe.it only cost me 75$ for 3 pulls on a dyno with the air fuel printout.
 
No burning a chip is not easy, and to pay someone just to burn a chip for your mods prob wouldn't be worth it. I didn't notice any gain at the track changing to the 94-95 Maf without changing the Maf transfer.if you put one on I would get the car dynoed with a air fuel printout just to be safe.it only cost me 75$ for 3 pulls on a dyno with the air fuel printout.

Thats really how i wanted to tune it in the first place but no one around here has a dyno. It would be 5 hours of driving to see a dyno. Guess I can pull the drive shaft and use the dolly.
 
If you go to eectuning.org you might be more interested in getting a quarterhorse to tune your car instead of paying for a company to burn you a chip.. It's a chip that plugs in like a normal chip but you hook up to your laptop and can datalog information so you can see what exactly is going on. Plus you can change your tune while the car is running. Moates.net sells them for 249$. Then buy binary editor to communicate with the chip. I just got mine installed 2 weeks ago. There are people that will do an online tune for 100$, because it can be confusing if you don't know what you are doing.. That's what I am doing because I'm not familiar enough with the tuning aspect of it.