Ok here is the deal. I put on a set of long tube headers and now my gas mileage sucks (13/mpg) I was doing around 20 before my cats clogged. I did not replace them. I pulled the codes the only one I get is 96 for the fuel pump relay which I replaced. I have also replaced the egr valve the fuel pump and filter. Fixed numerous vacuum leaks. The car runs ok but it is drinking gas. I set the timing at +10. I run 87 octane gas. The only other mod is a bbk clod air intake this is a 93 notch 5.0 I need help because if I can not fix I will have to get a car the gets better mpg give me anything you think of I at the end of the road for my fixes
Bad gas mileage
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See the section of the tech note on measuring the O2 sensor output & ground. Yours may be marginal in that area, not enough to set a code, but bad enough to cause problems.
You should also use a vacuum gauge to check for low vacuum. A leak could cause the computer to add extra fuel to compensate for the added air from the leak.
Code 41 or 91 Three digit code 172 or 176 - O2 sensor indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.
Revised 22-Jun-2009 to include 3 digit code and wiring for 94-95 5.0 Mustangs
Code 41 is a RH side sensor,
Code 91 is the LH side sensor.
Code 172 is the RH side sensor
Code 176 is the LH side sensor
The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.
The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.
When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.
Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.
Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote
Testing the O2 sensors 87-93 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.
Testing the O2 sensors 94-95 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a red/black wire) and 27 (RH O2 with a gray/lt blue wire). Use pin 32 (gray/red wire) to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.
Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer.
The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts
Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.
Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.
If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.
A secondary problem with only a code 41 is for cars with an intact smog pump and cats. If the tube on the back of the heads clogs up the driver’s side, all the air from the smog pump gets dumped into one side. This excess air upsets the O2 sensor calibration and can set a false code 41. The cure is to remove the crossover tube and thoroughly clean the insides so that there is no carbon blocking the free flow of air to both heads.
You should also use a vacuum gauge to check for low vacuum. A leak could cause the computer to add extra fuel to compensate for the added air from the leak.
Code 41 or 91 Three digit code 172 or 176 - O2 sensor indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.
Revised 22-Jun-2009 to include 3 digit code and wiring for 94-95 5.0 Mustangs
Code 41 is a RH side sensor,
Code 91 is the LH side sensor.
Code 172 is the RH side sensor
Code 176 is the LH side sensor
The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.
The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.
When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.
Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.
Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote
Testing the O2 sensors 87-93 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.
Testing the O2 sensors 94-95 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a red/black wire) and 27 (RH O2 with a gray/lt blue wire). Use pin 32 (gray/red wire) to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.
Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer.
The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts
Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.
Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.
If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.
A secondary problem with only a code 41 is for cars with an intact smog pump and cats. If the tube on the back of the heads clogs up the driver’s side, all the air from the smog pump gets dumped into one side. This excess air upsets the O2 sensor calibration and can set a false code 41. The cure is to remove the crossover tube and thoroughly clean the insides so that there is no carbon blocking the free flow of air to both heads.
more info
I have a few questions. First you said the low voltage means the computer thinks the car is running lean and will dump more fuel. I was only getting only >400 millivolts, s I know what the problem is how do I fix this so I can get my MPG back to normal. Seconded will the O2 sensors alone cause such bag gas mileage? If you forgot I have a 93 notch bbk cold air and long tube headers every thing else is stock
Thank you,
Supr_Sly
I have a few questions. First you said the low voltage means the computer thinks the car is running lean and will dump more fuel. I was only getting only >400 millivolts, s I know what the problem is how do I fix this so I can get my MPG back to normal. Seconded will the O2 sensors alone cause such bag gas mileage? If you forgot I have a 93 notch bbk cold air and long tube headers every thing else is stock
Thank you,
Supr_Sly
Take HISSIN50's wise advice.
O2 sensors are critical in their location. Closer to the exhaust valve so they run hotter is always better. You might try using some header wrap to wrap the headers to help hold in the heat. With long tube headers, the extra surface area of the long tube causes the exhaust gas to cool down quickly.
Be sure that you have fixed all the vacuum leaks and ground problems. They will cause all sorts of odd things to pop up.
Be sure the secondary power ground for the engine is good too.
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side
handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
The picture shows the common ground point for the battery & extra 3G alternator ground wire as described above in paragraph 2. A screwdriver points to the bolt that is the common ground point.
The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground
attached to it.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Correct negative battery ground cable.
ok i am back. i had a good run after replacing the charcoal box valve. i went up to 19 for a while but right back to were i started from. when i read the post i see i for got to put i have long tubes no cats. i just pulled the codes and got 91, 41 can you still find the o2 emulator. if so were. i think this is my problem
What device are you thinking of? It sounds like something for OBD-II cars with a second set of O2's to monitor cat performance.
Do you want to find the source of the lean issue? Since your mileage is all over the place, you know it's capable of getting decent mileage. For some reason it just isn't doing so consistantly.
Did you ever test your O2's to see what kind of output voltage they have after an extended idle?
Did you ever test your O2's to see what kind of output voltage they have after an extended idle?
liljoe07
5 Year Member
Could be the 02 ground, could be no power to the heaters. You need to check. Could be other issues to.
I don't understand because my MPG got better with LT's. Has something to do with the fuel air ratio. Make sure you don't have any leaks before the sensors.
You didn't use the paper gaskets that came with the headers did you?
You didn't use the paper gaskets that came with the headers did you?
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