Doing Fuel Injectors. Need Intake torque specs, and any tips
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Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Petroleum based products make the fuel injector o-rings go bad faster? What shall we do about the GASOLINE in the rail/injector/port they are sealing against? Any light grease/lubricant will work just fine - it simply allows them to slide when you're installing them, so the ring doesn't bind and tear/rip on way in. KY, Vaseline, white grease, even Armor All works just fine. I've used a bit of Never Sieze on mine for years - no problems.
I couldn't get a vaccuum hose off the tree on the drivers side firewall, so I cut it. I was afraid of breaking the plastic tree if I forced it anymore. No big deal, I just bought a couple of feet of hose and cut it to size.
I wouldn't worry about petroleum products harming the O rings. Last time I checked gasoline was a petroleum product. The Haynes manual says to use light oil. I used 3 in 1 oil. Don't use grease because it can clog the injectors. KY is probably fine, but I doubt you will find it in many professional mechanic's toolboxes. Since it is water based, I would think it would dry up and get crusty with the heat. I may be wrong about that. Use whatever you are comfortable with.
I wouldn't worry about petroleum products harming the O rings. Last time I checked gasoline was a petroleum product. The Haynes manual says to use light oil. I used 3 in 1 oil. Don't use grease because it can clog the injectors. KY is probably fine, but I doubt you will find it in many professional mechanic's toolboxes. Since it is water based, I would think it would dry up and get crusty with the heat. I may be wrong about that. Use whatever you are comfortable with.
I'm just going to stick with the KY-Jelly. Thanks for all the other tips.
Has anyone tried to replace your Roller Rockers while you were in there? A friend of mine suggested putting some 1.7 Roller Rockers since the intake was already off and he says you remove the valve covers, and they just basically screw on and off. Any thoughts on this (especially for a beginning mechanic)?
Has anyone tried to replace your Roller Rockers while you were in there? A friend of mine suggested putting some 1.7 Roller Rockers since the intake was already off and he says you remove the valve covers, and they just basically screw on and off. Any thoughts on this (especially for a beginning mechanic)?
88STANGCONVERT
Founding Member
This is good info. I am also going to be doing this this weekend. I am taking the lower intake off and cleaning it up. I have also purchased a FP reg. and I have a buddy who manages a shop that has a re-building station for injectors so I will be re-building the injectors and cleaning them. I wish you luck in doing this, Thanks to everyone for the info. 
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Installing the rockers is a bit more complex than just bolting them on, but not much. Go to Cranecams.com and look up their installation guide for the pedestal mount Cobra-style roller rockers. They tell you how to do it. You simply have to rotate the engine so the pair you're installing's valves are closed. Hand tighten til those no gap on the pushrod end or the valve stem end, put your torque wrench on and torque to 17-20 lb-ft and count the number of turns it takes. It should reach the torque between 1/4 and 1 turn. If it takes more than 1 turn - you need to shim the rocker - the new rockers will come with shims. Each .030" shim reduces the number of turns by about a 1/4. If it tightens in less than a 1/4 turn (you'll know this is a possibility if you can't get it to zero lash by hand) you need a shorter pushrod. The latter probably won't happen unless heads or block have had some machining done.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Just that it's easiest to do with the fuel rail out of the car. You'll figure it out when you see it. It's good you asked - you'd be surprised the number of folks that try to bump the motor around with the starter. 
Kind of hard to get it to stop where you need it to.
Kind of hard to get it to stop where you need it to.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
We kind of take it for granted - you can get the tool to disconnect the couplings from any parts store, not expensive. I especially tend to forget it because my set up is different from you guys - I have flexible high pressure rubber hose connections at the bottom of the block, so there's enough give in my system that I just pull it out of the way without having to disconnect the couplings.
Alright guys. I'm done with the job. Took a little longer than expected and there were a couple little quirks but its done. YAY! No more leaking injectors. However I do have a slight issue now. My car is running better at normal driving but when I WOT, it hestiates before it kicks in. When it does finally kick in, it screams a lot better than before. Any ideas what to check on why its hesitating intially? I checked my TPS and its at .98V. I also set my idle to about 750. Thanks guys.
OK well I think I got my hesitation problem fixed. We might have accidentally crossed two of the vacuum lines going into the intake. Oh well. Its running A LOT better now. Oh boy. I am having another small issue though related to my EGR. I had my EGR fixed about 2 years ago (replaced EGR Valve, EVS Sensor, EVP Sensor, etc) and it ran great. I'm getting error codes related to the EGR valve again. How could it only last 2 years??
89lxsport50 said:
Thanks man. Appreciate all the insight. I did replace my FPR but its not adjustable. I didnt want to mess with having to set it and I dont think I'm going to get any sort of power adder anytime soon.
As for the EGR, had I not already cleaned it, I would have suspected that as well. Unfortunately, I bought 2 cans of Carb Cleaner and almost used both cans on everything (Throttle Body, EGR Valve which was all carboned up, EGR Spacer, IAC, Intake Manifold, etc). Cleaning something isnt going to be the solution this time.
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