Fox w/ Sn95 spindle

[mattmcdan]

Hey guys!

I am doing a 5 lug swap on my 90 coupe. I had read that you can change the fox ball joints to SN95 ball joints when doing this swap and you don't have to use the stacked washer method. Can anyone else confirm this? I have stock K-member and stock lower control arms.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yes you can. Press out fox bj, press in sn95 bj. No washers needed.

 

[mattmcdan]

What is your recomended method for doing this? Is it easier to remove the lower control arm? Leave it on the car?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Depends on your method of pressing in and out of the ball joints.

Plenty of guys have done them in car.

Any reason why you choose to do this vs the spacers?

 

[Chuckman]

Yes you can. Press out fox bj, press in sn95 bj. No washers needed.

god that looks funny, goes perfect with the ct, lol

as for getting em out, you'll probably want the arm out and use a press (best method), though im sure a couple blocks and a bfh will "work," just far easier to take em to a shop if you dont have access to a press.

 

[93project]

i used 02 moog ball joints from oreillys. i also used their rental ball joint remover/installer. it works great, but you will man up on getting them in and out. you have to crank on the wrench like if you're opening a port door on the titanic! i did mine with the arms on the car

 

[mattmcdan]

I'd rather do the sn95 ball joints for peace of mind. I just built a nasty 408, and the car is strip only. Just eases the mind a bit.

 

[stang&2Birds]

I'd rather do the sn95 ball joints for peace of mind. I just built a nasty 408, and the car is strip only. Just eases the mind a bit.

Gee, you don't trust ~20 year old ball joints.

Like many topics, there's the stuff you read on the web and forums, and there what is correct in real life. I tell people how to do things the correct way.

So, here's the real info:
Ford ball joints are not made to be replaced!
No argument - just read the Ford manual!


Okay. But, shops do it all the time. Yea, shops also have people that failed 3rd grade working for them, and running them, so what does that prove?



But wait, Moog to the rescue!

o Using a ball joint press so that the ball joint opening on the FCA does not distort, remove the old ORIG ball joint.

o Use a MOOG ball joint that is specially designed (slightly bigger body and has more taper to the body) to go into the Ford FCA.

o In general, you can do this ONCE, and have the ball joint snug and safe. But, note, there is no guarantee!

o If it's the 2nd+ ball joint replacement, or if the new Moog ball joint is not tight in the FCA opening after being inserted, then the bottom of the ball joint must/should be carefully MIG welded to the FCA.



BTW: Parts of the above info are based on the awesome knowledge and help from Jack from MM. I never knew that Moog had specially designed their replacement ball joints. That's also why when people use Ford OEM or Steeda X2 ball joints, they often report that the ball joints are not "tight" in the FCA opening.

BTW#2: I used new Ford FCAs since they also have the better bushings and the newer lifetime ball joints. I used the washers that came with my M2300K kit. A small company also sells similar washers. But, from what I read on the forums, some people need two per ball joint.


To the best of my knowledge, the above is correct. Every thing that I mentioned can be verified with no problem (i.e buy a Ford factory OEM and Moog ball joint and measure them, read the Ford manual, search for the thread with Jack's comments on the other Stang site, etc).

Good Luck!

 

[93project]

My moogs were a PITA to get into the arm so I guess that counts as a tight fit! I'm telling you, go get some Moog's at Oreilly's and rent the ball joint press.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I just machined up some spacers and used those. Of course I didn't want to press out brand new ball joints out of my new ford racing a arms. Spacers are holding up fine. I check them every day but since it compression, not really much to fail if you use steel and not some soft metal.

 

[2000xp8]

I have a ball joint tool from harbor freight that was only like $30
Worked great on my van and explorer.
So i'd assume it works fine on the mustang too.

 

[Shakerhood]

I bought the Ford Racing A Arms and used the Spacers, work great.

 

[El_CUCUY]

where can i find these so called spacer? I'm on the same boat right now and need to either get new BJ's put in or use the spacer method. I would rather use the spacers cause i'll be changing out the front susp later and would rather go a cheaper route right now.
thanks

 

[Mustang5L5]

I machined my own, some guys on forums do sell them. There was a vendor selling them but can't think of who it was.

Some guys used 5/8" ID washers with a stacked hieght of 0.330"

The force on the spacer is compression, so as long as you use a quality steel or washer, there should be no issue with mushrooming.

I made mine out of 316L Stainless. been 2 years...no issues. And sorry, i can't make anymore at this time.

 

[El_CUCUY]

So can i use the ones from breeze auto? i think they still sell them there.

 

[Matt@HighFlow]

Make sure you use 94-95 spindles. The 96 and up spindles will screw the steering geometry up with a stock K member.

 

[stang&2Birds]

So can i use the ones from breeze auto? i think they still sell them there.

Yup, that's what many people do.

However, from what I understand from posts in the forums, it seems that the spacer they sell is "just barely thick enough". It's hard to see/fell that the nut didn't bottom out on the threads of the ball joint. Also, considering that there's no "exact spec" on how far the threads go on the ball joint stud, IMHO, it's too close for comfort.

So, I'd suggest trying two per ball joint. Otherwise, you want to use grade eight (or better) washers. The lower grade washers will bend/distort/compress too much.

Here's a link to the washers that breeze automotive sells:
Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing - #30014 Spacer Washer for SN-95 Spindle $3/each

Good Luck!
And, get rid of those POS death trap Fox brakes ASAP! Going to the sn95 setup for hubs and brakes will be the best mod you EVER did to the car.

 

[Mustang5L5]

My custom machines spacer. New fox balljoints in ford racing a arms....so I didn't want to ruin anything by pressing them out.

 

[stang&2Birds]

Nice washers.
Yea, those are a much better width than the Breeze Auto washers. But, my guess is that it would also be $20+ each for those washers because of the time involved and the material/machining cost.

If people really really want to use single washers, they can use emachineshop, design them, and pay ~~$150->~$200 for ~2 to 10 pieces.

 

[Luch]

I purchased the Napa (they offered two versions, I got the better) ball joints and they appeared to be nice pieces, grease fittings and all. The only thing that stuck out right away to me was that they do not utilize the cotter pin! Most every other brand out there I had seen has the hole drilled for the pin but these don't. I was told the fit was good to the control arm's...hope they hold up as I could imagine the damage to the car if they let go, much less safety.