Fuel Injector Prob...I think??

[Goober89]

I have an 89LX, the problem is that when i first start it up and try to go anywhere it just bogs down when i give it gas. it kinda hesitates when you hit the throttle. I have full exhaust, cobra intake, 70mm TB, 73 Mass, stock block and heads, MSD. It has the stock injectors still. Is that the problem, and if so which size should i get. Oh yeah, when it gets warmed up its not as bad. thx for any help.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[HaynStang]

My car has the same issue but it is completely stock aside from exhaust and a K&N. Recently it has got to the point where on a cold start it'll immediately sputter and die on the first and sometimes even second attempt to start. Then it'll need to idle for a minute or two before you can move the car without it bogging real bad during the first 10 minute of the drive. When the engine gets warmed up it drives fine, never ever happens on a warm start either. This issue seems to get progressively worse the longer it's been since a tune-up.

Anyone else having this problem, and have any suggestions? I haven't bothered to pull codes yet since the car is due for a tune up anyway, but I'm going to do both tomorrow and see what comes up.

 

[CornerCarvin67]

So what did you find out? Run the codes? What did it say?

My car has the same issue but it is completely stock aside from exhaust and a K&N. Recently it has got to the point where on a cold start it'll immediately sputter and die on the first and sometimes even second attempt to start. Then it'll need to idle for a minute or two before you can move the car without it bogging real bad during the first 10 minute of the drive. When the engine gets warmed up it drives fine, never ever happens on a warm start either. This issue seems to get progressively worse the longer it's been since a tune-up.

Anyone else having this problem, and have any suggestions? I haven't bothered to pull codes yet since the car is due for a tune up anyway, but I'm going to do both tomorrow and see what comes up.