Got me some dyno numbers (PI headswap, cams)

[AquamanCHS]

I went to the dyno today and got three runs in.. the best of my three runs yielded 265.4 RWHP and 299.7 RWTQ. Anyone else think these numbers are a little low of the mods in my sig? A/F was a flat line starting at 14 at 3k and went to 13 at 6k.

 

[Blev]

I went to the dyno today and got three runs in.. the best of my three runs yielded 265.4 RWHP and 299.7 RWTQ. Anyone else think these numbers are a little low of the mods in my sig? A/F was a flat line starting at 14 at 3k and went to 13 at 6k.

I would say those are pretty good considering they are not ported (P&P).

 

[AquamanCHS]

Anyone know what else I can do to try to get closer to 300 N/A? Plenum/TB? Inlet tube and K&N? What's all that good for? 10? 15?

 

[Blev]

Anyone know what else I can do to try to get closer to 300 N/A? Plenum/TB? Inlet tube and K&N? What's all that good for? 10? 15?

With a K&N Drop in filter, Plenum/TB combo I would say 10 - 15 is pretty realistic. The Accufab setup was rated at 7.something HP and 7.something TQ. Alot with a good air filter I would say you would be helping your get more air to the heads.

 

[03-s281]

You should be higher than that with the compression of that motor.
I would do a PI intake swap. Your numbers should be around 275-280 now.
I'm at 263 SAE and you've got cams and LT's. Switch intakes and get a tune
and see where that puts you.

 

[Blev]

You should be higher than that with the compression of that motor.
I would do a PI intake swap. Your numbers should be around 275-280 now.
I'm at 263 SAE and you've got cams and LT's. Switch intakes and get a tune
and see where that puts you.

Maybe you should read the post again. He did the PI headswap, that incluces the PI intake. The average HP is around 245 - 255 after a headswap. So his numbers are pretty good

 

[AquamanCHS]

Maybe you should read the post again. He did the PI headswap, that incluces the PI intake. The average HP is around 245 - 255 after a headswap. So his numbers are pretty good

So my cams and full exhaust only got 10-20 hp? that seems pretty weak to me . What's the difference between SAE and STD? My numbers were STD

 

[AquamanCHS]

Double post

 

[Blev]

So my cams and full exhaust only got 10-20 hp? that seems pretty weak to me . What's the difference between SAE and STD? My numbers were STD

Most people who do the headswap already have full exhaust and on average, you gain about 15 from cams. Don't be dissapointed, you pulled some good numbers. The only thing you could have done better would have been to have the heads P&P before the install. Try the plenum/tb combo and drop in filter and you'll see some more improvement.

 

[Blev]

What about UD pullies? Are those good for the 10hp advertised at or is that BS? I'm just trying to see how I can manage 300, if at all.

Thanks for the suggestions so far, Blev... been real helpful

The Steeda UD's are, IMO, the best out there. I'm not sure if you'll 10 ponies out of them but you can safely say 5 - 8 from what I have seen folks Dyno them for. If you want to hit that 300 mark, I hate to say it but your going to need a P&P. You might be able to nickle and dime it to death and get real close though.

Your at 265 now so if you go with the Accufab plenum/70mm TB, Drop in filter, UD's and bump your timing up, you may get pretty damn close. What is your timing at now?

 

[AquamanCHS]

What about UD pullies? Are those good for the 10hp advertised at or is that BS? I'm just trying to see how I can manage 300, if at all.

Thanks for the suggestions so far, Blev... been real helpful

 

[stang9gt]

I would say those are pretty good considering they are not ported (P&P).

No P&P here, and I am closer to 300 now...

 

[1ba96gt]

Get a dyno tuned chip, the other bolt ons as mentioned by everyone else, and you'll get close. With cams that aren't the most agressive and no P&P job it will be difficult. You are going to have to pick up each little HP you can through small gains. It might be better just to throw a small shot of juice in it. Its kinda of cheating your way out, buts its a whole lot cheaper. Just something to think about.

 

[GTn00b]

definately get a tune that should give you pretty good gains!!

 

[madmatt]

See I thought it looked low too, but then realized that you havent gotten it tuned yet. That would and should be your FIRST priority with cams and the headswap. Well, thats what I would do anyway.

 

[LI98GTStang]

My take is that you even though your numbers are excellent, to get to the magic 300, a more agressive cam than the Stage 1 will be needed. If you look at some of the guys that have made it there, agressive cams on an N/A car is one of the major pieces along with the full exhaust with LTs that you have already. Atleast you have the heads/PI intake swap done, so if you wanted to change the cams atleast you can use the AFM tool for a pretty easy job.

 

[navarro98gt]

Those numbers look decent for no porting or tune. I put down 278rwhp/292tq with mods in sig. Numbers are through an auto with no tune.

 

[98GTVortech]

For the money you invested into your PI Headswap VT Stage I Cams and installation you could have picked up a cheap s/c on ebay and had it rebuild and seen number above 300. What i did and loving every minute. Just a thought.

 

[navarro98gt]

For the money you invested into your PI Headswap VT Stage I Cams and installation you could have picked up a cheap s/c on ebay and had it rebuild and seen number above 300. What i did and loving every minute. Just a thought.

What kind of numbers are you puting down and how much boost?

 

[PacificStang46]

Those are pretty good numbers, mine only did 261/290 but with a 15.5 a/f, not enough fuel. now I have put in the 26# injectors and it feels 10 times as responsive...