Gt500 In A Fox?

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All of this banter has given me an idea.

I've been wanting to do an N/A Windsor build for some time now. I'd be willing to bet that I could build such a motor and have it run as smooth as a baby's ass and still make over 400 FWHP. :chin

I'm thinking:

Cast crank
forged rods
hyper pistons
EFI after-market ECU
shorties
Full weight forged flywheel
zero balanced

What else?

I'm thinking this might be right at home in the 89.
Do this!! This is EXACTLY what I want for the Daddywagon!! When you build a sleeper you want an engine that runs smooooth! I am chasing this very engine.
 
Not hard to do choose the parts that obviously make power..... large cid high flow heads and intake supporting mods then have one of the cam masters like freezy grind you a cam that will purr like a kitten but make great power.
 
If you were to build an engine strictly for the street wouldn’t torque take priority? Power down low, right? What is the best daily driver build?
Torque across the entire usable RPM range is what you're shooting for. Long runners, high-lift cam with a good overlap with good manners on the low end.
 
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All of this banter has given me an idea.

I've been wanting to do an N/A Windsor build for some time now. I'd be willing to bet that I could build such a motor and have it run as smooth as a baby's ass and still make over 400 FWHP. :chin

I'm thinking:

Cast crank
forged rods
hyper pistons
EFI after-market ECU
shorties
Full weight forged flywheel
zero balanced

What else?

I'm thinking this might be right at home in the 89.

Pretty sure you could. About 9.5:1 compression and some big heads, and I think it could be done. Probably with the stock ECU as well. But why the forged flywheel and rods with everything else cast?

Kurt
 
Pretty sure you could. About 9.5:1 compression and some big heads, and I think it could be done. Probably with the stock ECU as well. But why the forged flywheel and rods with everything else cast?

Kurt


The cast crank is beefy enough in that block to take some 700+ HP.
The stock ECU is (in comparison to more modern offerings) not fast enough to do the job as adequately.
The Flywheel probably doesn't need to be forged for the RPM I'll be producing but they are relatively inexpensive and the material is more resilient to abuse, changing shape, becoming out of balance over time from wear.


I think (since it's going to be an N/A motor) compression might go a bit higher than 9.5. I'm also considering a couple of stroker options (not huge) but I'm still sorting through plusses and minuses.
 
I saw a turbine engine from a Chinook helicopter at the last surplus auction. I'm sure I could make that fit. Might need a new hood though:chin
 
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I saw a turbine engine from a Chinook helicopter at the last surplus auction. I'm sure I could make that fit. Might need a new hood though:chin

Wouldn't be the first person to put a turbine from a helicopter in a car. Used to work right next to Deimech Turbines. They rebuilt all the turbines for those crazy GlassAirs, Legends, LanceAirs, etc. Walther Turbine is about 650 shaft HP. Torque is crazy though. You'll get 1/2 mpg.

Kurt
 
Ok. I am just gonna go ahead and tell y’all. I am gonna build a long rod 351w run by an a9l with an svo extender. Stock speed density cam, gt40 cast iron heads with crane/ford 1.72 roller rockers. lightning lower intake and matching tubular upper. Spacer and throttle body are vintage accufab. Pro flow mass air sensor calibrated to the 24lb injectors. 87 octane always. 100% street. I also have a cobra roller cam which from what I understand is the highest lift ford production roller camshaft. Pistons are cast hypereutectic Keith Black KB333. They are .030 over. No change in displacement other than the .030 overbore. A little bit of a tangent on someone else’s thread. Ready to get flamed. Not the first time. I have everything I listed above in my possession. Win, lose or draw I am going to build it and see what it does. The wagon is quirky, so I’m building an engine to match.
 
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The Flywheel probably doesn't need to be forged for the RPM I'll be producing but they are relatively inexpensive and the material is more resilient to abuse, changing shape, becoming out of balance over time from wear.

Copy that. My billet flywheel was drilled for 50oz imbalance, then had the drill holes filled and welded for neutral balance, and inbetween resurfaced at least 3 times. I paid $200 for it, but I think they are around $250 now, still a good investment. I never thought I would get 18 years out of it.

What are the stock rods good for? I agree on the stock crank shaft. The cast aftermarket Chinese ones aren't worth it. They are stronger than the stock one, but tend to have other problems.

Kurt
 
Copy that. My billet flywheel was drilled for 50oz imbalance, then had the drill holes filled and welded for neutral balance, and inbetween resurfaced at least 3 times. I paid $200 for it, but I think they are around $250 now, still a good investment. I never thought I would get 18 years out of it.

What are the stock rods good for? I agree on the stock crank shaft. The cast aftermarket Chinese ones aren't worth it. They are stronger than the stock one, but tend to have other problems.

Kurt


Stock rods? Haven't settled on rods yet but I'm reasonably certain that I want forged rods and hypereutectic pistons. Since a flat N/A torque curve is what I'm after, I'm not sure stroking is necessary but larger pistons would be good.
 
Anyone have any feedback on these?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-30004

fif-30004_xl.jpg
 
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