GTech results

bigcat said:
damn, what do you do? run out to the car, try something, run back in the house, post something, then run back to the car?


Just trying to see exactly where the XPIPE Dual exhaust setup is.. Being that I recently just got the Gtech, we have not really had any idea of its impact on the car.. Its kind of like a growing process.. Basically, we are trying to see exactly where we are before SCT tune and blower install.. This kind of gives you an idea of what the motor is made of.. What makes it tick..

I would love to be able to peak it, before any other mods.. This is the only way.. Around here, we like to use communication as a tool to discover new ideas and discover findings. Me running out to the car, trying something out, and posting it back here is the only way I can do these things.. I am busy during the week, and dont have time..

Not too sure what the implication is Bigcat, maybe you can ellaborate on what exactly your comment means, and how it relates to the rest of the thread.. Is there any valuable information in this post I need to look for?
 
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Alright, MSP, i think you are prolly beating me right now, from that 14.8 time, cuz my 14.6 was kinda downhill, but then a uphill at the last 2 seconds. I have a question, isn't power shifting, like, just jamming the gears WOT? sounds harmful, lol, i'm glad i got an auto. I heard from a GT owner that his predator tuner made his auto chirp the tires, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts, i bet if i got a SCT2 and stifened up my shifts, i would be up to par with any manual, (except for those who want to kill there's)
 
echo7 said:
Alright, MSP, i think you are prolly beating me right now, from that 14.8 time, cuz my 14.6 was kinda downhill, but then a uphill at the last 2 seconds. I have a question, isn't power shifting, like, just jamming the gears WOT? sounds harmful, lol, i'm glad i got an auto. I heard from a GT owner that his predator tuner made his auto chirp the tires, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts, i bet if i got a SCT2 and stifened up my shifts, i would be up to par with any manual, (except for those who want to kill there's)


Yes its kinda like jamming.. But done properly, its a syncronized shift, and not harmfull at all.. You need to first accelerate, then let off the gas and quickely shift into the higher gear.. There is a point of syncronization after the gas pedal lift.. Its all timing.. If you let the rpms drop down to low, you will grind the gear.. But done properly, you can shave of some 1/10s of a seconds at the end of the run without grinding at all...

But I dont desire it right now, because the learning curve for each car involves grinding until the sycro pattern is masterd.. I'd rather use HP to get a better time for now.. Later I'll learn the syncro, but not now.. I want to understand the entire modification of the car right now.. This involves letting the HP take me to the finish line all by itself..
 
@ALL

I seriously think right now, that I need a real CAI system.. Right now, I can hear the car sucking for air when shifting from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to third.. I truley think removing the exhaust mufflers has caused the car to desire more air intake.. Which means, the MAS air tube I have on right now, is not able to provide the amount of air the car is looking for..

When I shift, I can hear the car and the hose squeeze for air.. You know how the intake tube running to the MAS-AIR throttle body has a section where it squeezes? Well, this is the point at which when you shift hard and mash the gas, this section squeezes itself together for the gulp of air the engine is requiring..

I feel right now, I am not getting enough air and this is causing the tube to to sqeeze itself to death.. LOL!! So basically, I need to get a Chromed or polished intake tube, which has a straighter path to the throttle body.. Then I wont hear the suction taking place, which means I'll produce more power..
 
brodude2002 said:
are u going to put in a t-lok and new gears, or r u just working under the hood?


Yes.. This of course is mandatory in the long run.. It would be nice even for the power of the V6 stock engine to have the T-LOK rear-end.. I think our 1/4 mile time could improve alot..

So yes, this is definatley something down the road, once the power desired has been created by way of the blower.. :nice:

But point of fact, a stock V6 would highly benefit from this type of upgrade.. Ask anyone who owns one.. The deadstop launch of these cars is a big downfall right now..

I think we are losing at least 1 1/2 secs because of this.. Which means, most likley, a stock V6 could conceivably run a high 13 number. Under perfect circumstances of course..

Lets look at this this way.. The GT is running 13.4 1/4 mile.. On average, I would say we are all somewhere around 14.86... Give us back that 1.5 sec and you have 13.36... Give back to the equation a rational of less HP, which is about worth .7 sec and you have a number close to 14.06... On a very cold day, you may be able to shave of the .06..

So basically, the rear-end is costing us about .8 from the line.. So this means a Stock GT is only about truley .66 faster in the 1/4 mile than a stock V6...

Add my blower to the equation and 2psi of boost, and you can easily see how much potential these cars have.. Keeping in mind that 6-8PSI is safe before hurting components..
 
MSP: That is old style power shifting, but not really.

Power shifting is when you never take your foot off the gas, but you still use the clutch. That way you are always at WOT when you hit a new gear. Shifting without the clutch is not a good idea, and i have never tried that.
 
By the way, a tlok will help you more in 0-60 then it will in the quarter mile, because once you have traction, you are now having to power 2 wheels instead of just one. Just like an STI that has an incredible 0-60 time, but runs pretty close to a stock gt in the quarter mile because it has to power all 4 wheels.
I think a tlok would shave probably half a second on a stock v6, more on a v6 with wider and/or better tires.

I wonder what time i could run if i had some mods done too my car....
 
fazm83 said:
Now that the forums are back up, why dont you tell us about your 14.4 run MSP :)


It has not happen yet.. Mainly because of the start.. But I honestly think that with a few more attempts, if I cant get there, I will have to concede that the exhaust work has not had any impact on the car.. Your car is still stock, with stock tires.. Mine has exhaust work and tires.. If I cant put a more than a few 1/10's of a second on you, we will all have to accept that exhaust work is merely for personal taste and sound.. Bottom line.. So 14.86 is my best run thus far, for the sake of a good upgrade, we better all hope I can beat you.. If not, nothing else matters, until I get blown..

But it is of course a matter of SCT tunning.. It very well could be, and most likley the case, as all have said, that I need to have this done before the benefits can be seen and appreciated..

This is such a long path really.. Most guys want early results.. But the truth lies closer to the complete package, which winds out with the SCT tune..
 
MSP,

The 3750 lb weight figure I gave you already includes your body weight so don’t add to it. 3371 for V6 premium, 150-200 lbs in options/accessories/bolt-ons gives 3521-3571. Use 3550 lbs plus your body weight (whatever that is… :rolleyes: ) for the total car weight. I’m still not sure if the 3371 value is wet or dry though. Still, the HP numbers are VERY good for just an exhaust system and air filter, especially, w/o the proper tune.

BTW, I really like your tires & wheels. But, the front looks like it will rub the fender during hard cornering (it sticks out past the fender flare). Possibly the rear also. I don’t think you will be able to lower the car at all with those wheels+offset. What happens during extreme cornering?? Personally, I like my “G’s” in the lateral dimension more than in the longitudinal, so I worry about clearance.

Finally, I don’t understand how/why a LSD will improve on your best 0-60, 1/4mile, etc. times. If/when you get *any* wheelspin at all, you have already blown your best time. The best acceleration times are obtained with NO wheelspin. In a no-wheelspin situation, a regular diferential is acting the same as a LSD. You may accelerate better in slippery situations but your best times shouldn’t improve.
 
MSP said:
It has not happen yet.. Mainly because of the start.. But I honestly think that with a few more attempts, if I cant get there, I will have to concede that the exhaust work has not had any impact on the car.. Your car is still stock, with stock tires.. Mine has exhaust work and tires.. If I cant put a more than a few 1/10's of a second on you, we will all have to accept that exhaust work is merely for personal taste and sound.. Bottom line.. So 14.86 is my best run thus far, for the sake of a good upgrade, we better all hope I can beat you.. If not, nothing else matters, until I get blown..

But it is of course a matter of SCT tunning.. It very well could be, and most likley the case, as all have said, that I need to have this done before the benefits can be seen and appreciated..

This is such a long path really.. Most guys want early results.. But the truth lies closer to the complete package, which winds out with the SCT tune..

Keep in mind i beat his, and i'm just an auto. If your not able to get atleast 14.6 or 14.5, then its probably either traction, shifting, launching, or weather issues.... (i do however think my auto can keep up with any good manual drivers, but prolly not experts)
 
NJstangpilot, for the same reason an all wheel drive car can accelerate faster.

With the reg diff you can only accelerate as fast as 1 wheel tractoin will allow, with 2 wheels of traction you can push it just a little bit more before you get wheel spin. Kind of the same concept behind wider tires, more traction. With the tlok you are theoretically doubling your acceleration traction.