i have a check engine light issue
- Thread starter nakednipple
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jstreet0204
Active Member
If you have no way of getting the datalogs, switch the front o2 sensors and see if the code follows the sensor. If it does, replace the sensor. If it doesn't, check all of the wiring on pasenger side. If the wiring looks good, start looking for sticking injectors.
nakednipple said:
I don't want you blaming me if this is wrong becuase all I am doing is going by past experience with ford EEC with no live data to back this up..
9-10 times a lack of switch code is a bad 02 sensor.. most of the times when it's a fuel metering concern the pcm uses the po171,174 and p0172,175 but don;t go blaming me if replacing the sensor don't fix it.
it's the bank 1 upstream, so it's the sensor thats closer to the manifold on the passenger side of the car.
REMEMBER I am not guaranteing a fix, but 9-10 times thats a sensor for that code.
REMEMBER I am not guaranteing a fix, but 9-10 times thats a sensor for that code.
that would make sense tho b/c nothing eles could be wrong on this damn car! with your knowledge do i have to take my o2 deletes off to get my car inspected? the guy knows i dont have cats but says i have to have the o2 deltes off so he can let it run until the readings drop... is he off his noggin or not ?
ok well i went to get it inspected... im in NORTH CAROLINA and he hooked it up to the computer and said my car is not ready... what ever the hell that means. hed pass me even though i dont have cats, but he says he cant trick the computer... also i threw another code....p1131...other side eh ?
so does that mean that i have to replace the o2 sensors?
so does that mean that i have to replace the o2 sensors?
Your computer has no history. You can not delete codes and go directly to inspection without history. Your car must be driven for awhile including stop and go and highway also your ignition must be cycled around 40 times for your vehicle to have history for inspection. You should spend a few dollars and take your car to a repair shop and have a complete diag. done and printed for you. If you have a laptop or PC in your garage you can buy CAR CODE OBDII or something simular and do your own diagnostics. You might also want to consider a ALLDATA subscription for you vehicle
well i tried to get it inspected (went to autozone and have the light taken off for the time being) and the computer the you have to hook the car up to or what ever said "not ready" and my car could not be inspected....so yea im confused... and this car is driving me insaine.. i dont know what p1132 and p1131 require to fix them.. they are bank 1 and 2 upstream o2 sensors saying im running rich.. does that mean i have to change the 02 sensors? or do something eles to get the codes off? should i just say hell to it and buy some more o2 deletes and put it on the upstream sensors? would that stop the codes fury ? thanks for your advice/help
nakednipple said:
NO do not do that. you need the 2 upstream sensors to work, this will not solve your problem it will just set lack of h02s switch codes and slow response codes.
having rich codes for both banks can be caused by a bad maf check your maf
svttech76 said:
ive got a new maf on... what else could it be? i talked to a guy at steve ashworth performance here in north carolina, and he said there is nothing i can do...BESIDES get a chip and a retune which is around 300$ he says... this hold any water or is he wrong also ....
i know there are people on here with my car and my same mid pipe set up... how do they keep their codes off?
thanks
Well.. from my personal experience, this kind of crap can trigger different codes.
I had MIL's on my car for a year and all the sudden my CEL came on. It read Misfire In Cyl 4/back O2 sensor on pass side, so I replaced the plug.. It didn't do anything for my CEL. I reset the light a million times, kept coming back as the same thing..
So finally, today I took it to the shop because I was sick of messing with it and they ran a TON of tests and crap on it and kept getting really odd numbers from everything on that side of the car.. Turns out that MIL had a bad connection. So they switched the MIL's places and everything read fine.. So since it was reading I had a bad O2 sensor, it threw other **** outta line and kept acting like more stuff was messed up when it wasnt.. That may be your problem
I had MIL's on my car for a year and all the sudden my CEL came on. It read Misfire In Cyl 4/back O2 sensor on pass side, so I replaced the plug.. It didn't do anything for my CEL. I reset the light a million times, kept coming back as the same thing..
So finally, today I took it to the shop because I was sick of messing with it and they ran a TON of tests and crap on it and kept getting really odd numbers from everything on that side of the car.. Turns out that MIL had a bad connection. So they switched the MIL's places and everything read fine.. So since it was reading I had a bad O2 sensor, it threw other **** outta line and kept acting like more stuff was messed up when it wasnt.. That may be your problem
jasonh_86 said:
So you had two different codes. . one for a cyl 4 misfire and another for the 02 sensor on the pass side..
they fixed the 02 sensor code for you but the misfire must have fixed itself.. no way did swapping mil's around fix a misfire code. thats impossible.
giddyup306
Founding Member
- Oct 22, 2002
- 3,041
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Okay I'm getting very confused after reading the thread.
As someone mentioned before 9/10 the o2 sensor is bad. However you can test them easy with a multimeter and a can of carb cleaner if you don't have acces to serial 2 data.
Backprobe the signal return on the o2. Spray some carb cleaner in the air intake (have a fire extingusher handy just in case). THe voltage should increase to ~850mv. THen stop spraying and the voltage should lower. You can even try closing off the TB. Your voltage should go down to 200mv or so.
Before doing any of the testing make sure that the vehicle is in closed loop and the 02 is producing a useable signal. FOr OBD II this could take up to 320 seconds.
Dumb question here but did you put your eliminators on the precat??? ALso did you check for any exhaust leaks?
I bet that either one of these is the cause of your problem. Or perhaps someone dropped one of the o2 sensors during the install rendering them useless.
As someone mentioned before 9/10 the o2 sensor is bad. However you can test them easy with a multimeter and a can of carb cleaner if you don't have acces to serial 2 data.
Backprobe the signal return on the o2. Spray some carb cleaner in the air intake (have a fire extingusher handy just in case). THe voltage should increase to ~850mv. THen stop spraying and the voltage should lower. You can even try closing off the TB. Your voltage should go down to 200mv or so.
Before doing any of the testing make sure that the vehicle is in closed loop and the 02 is producing a useable signal. FOr OBD II this could take up to 320 seconds.
Dumb question here but did you put your eliminators on the precat??? ALso did you check for any exhaust leaks?
I bet that either one of these is the cause of your problem. Or perhaps someone dropped one of the o2 sensors during the install rendering them useless.
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