It took me almost 6 hours to install an intake gasket today. With all the unhooking, finding of special tools to get into the tight spaces, and trying to jam your hands in around and under the intake to get stuff unhooked. The return line WOULD NOT come off, so i flipped the fuel rails out of the way and proceded to YANK the fuel injectors out of the intake because the o-rings were so swollen up with gunk. Then reinstalling was even worse, trying to get all those stupid lines hooked back up and what not. Then, the fuel rails didn't want to reinstall correctly. I got only 3 bolts in for it, the 4th was way off for some unknown reason. Now, the car won't run. I have done a computer test (passed), checked and rechecked that I had the proper firing order, timed it, and even checked to see if the injectors were hooked up correctly. Everything is good. I don't even know, so I am going to pray that tomorrow some miracle will start my car. I gotta stop typing now because my fingers are f**kin sore and it's late.
I thought these cars were supposed to be easy to work on.
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89CopCoupe
Banned
I hear ya ... days like today make you appreciate the easy fixes 
The thing that I used to hate was when my Stang was my daily driver and I had to get it back on the road by Monday ... now I'm blessed with the luxury of taking my time and being able to walk away from it until I'm good and ready to go back to it .... weeks if need be.
Sometimes everything that can go wrong does when you really need it to work out ... Murphy's Law.
For me, when I work on my Stangs with a nonchalant attitude it always goes smooth
... when I'm pissy and foul mouthed, EVERYTHING goes wrong and I end up dropping half the bolts into the black holes of the K-member 
Count to ten and try again tomorrow ... you'll be fine.
The thing that I used to hate was when my Stang was my daily driver and I had to get it back on the road by Monday ... now I'm blessed with the luxury of taking my time and being able to walk away from it until I'm good and ready to go back to it .... weeks if need be.
Sometimes everything that can go wrong does when you really need it to work out ... Murphy's Law.
For me, when I work on my Stangs with a nonchalant attitude it always goes smooth
... when I'm pissy and foul mouthed, EVERYTHING goes wrong and I end up dropping half the bolts into the black holes of the K-member Count to ten and try again tomorrow ... you'll be fine.
you'll get use to it...the more you do it the faster you get. I'm at the point now where the upper and lower intake can be off and back on the car in an hour and a half.
Did you make sure all the vaccum lines are hooked up? Is the car holding fuel pressure? Did you drop the distributor back in correctly on top dead center? Will it crank but not fire over? There is a bunch of stuff that could be wrong when you get into taking the intake off.
Andrew
Did you make sure all the vaccum lines are hooked up? Is the car holding fuel pressure? Did you drop the distributor back in correctly on top dead center? Will it crank but not fire over? There is a bunch of stuff that could be wrong when you get into taking the intake off.
Andrew
Euphoric306
New Member
- Apr 5, 2004
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to me it didnt sound like u were very gentle in dissassembling the parts, perhaps thats why the fuel rail wont line up, and it wont run?
sorry you had a bad experience... but in most cases, fox bodies are easier to work on than most any car on the road, especially the newer ones... hold your head up, and youll get the problem solved
sorry you had a bad experience... but in most cases, fox bodies are easier to work on than most any car on the road, especially the newer ones... hold your head up, and youll get the problem solved
Some help for your no start problems...
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs
1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer
2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil
3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.
Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.
Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing. A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring. I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
A.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
B.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
C.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.
4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs
1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer
2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil
3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.
Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.
Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing. A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring. I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
A.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
B.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
C.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.
4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.
jrichker, you are a hell of a guy. I think your actually a machine. lol
Thanks for the help, turns out the rotor in the distributor was on the opposite side of what it should have been so I put it on TDC again and pointed the rotor to #1 and she fired right up. I swear I had it right last night, but it was almost 1am and I was getting worn out after a 100 degree day in the garage. lol
89CopCoupe, you're right about the daily driver. This IS my daily driver so I was getting pretty frantic about the situation.
Thanks for the support guys, yesterday was a long day for me.
Thanks for the help, turns out the rotor in the distributor was on the opposite side of what it should have been so I put it on TDC again and pointed the rotor to #1 and she fired right up. I swear I had it right last night, but it was almost 1am and I was getting worn out after a 100 degree day in the garage. lol
89CopCoupe, you're right about the daily driver. This IS my daily driver so I was getting pretty frantic about the situation.
Thanks for the support guys, yesterday was a long day for me.
At least you got it running and all. Just remember i the future: if you try to fight the stang, she will fight back...
Speed_Demon1965 said:
I think he is, I have been trying to get the shop I work for to ditch Mitchell and install Jrichker.
The 5.0HO is probally the simplest of all modern EFI motors. If you want to find a PITA to work on, go work on a Expedition with the 5.4 Triton under the hood. Most of it's under the dash, worse than a F-body LT1, and a lot more complicated. So many vaccume lines, so many coolant lines, wires everywhere, you name it. They also like to put sensors under the intake manifold which are lots of fun to change.
easy to work on?..... there only easy to wash.... and thats about it. haha 
heres how i usily am when i work on my car
parts come and i get excited and start work right away - an houre into workin on it - 2 houres after workin on it, and i want to just set it on fire in the garage- 
then i stop and think about what im doin- 
then i relize what im doin rong- 
then after a little bit more of me and the car fighting eachother i finaly start to win - 
then after i finish- 
and then me and whoever worked on it go and celebrate- 
o ya and alot of this throughout the hole thing- 
how many othe people can relate to that... haha i thought it woudl be funny to post that....
heres how i usily am when i work on my car
parts come and i get excited and start work right away -
an houre into workin on it - then i stop and think about what im doin- then i relize what im doin rong- then after a little bit more of me and the car fighting eachother i finaly start to win - then after i finish- and then me and whoever worked on it go and celebrate- o ya and alot of this throughout the hole thing- how many othe people can relate to that... haha i thought it woudl be funny to post that....
Euphoric306
New Member
- Apr 5, 2004
- 905
- 0
- 0
hehe its like those stories in the kids magazines at the dentist with all the pictures.... stangnet style
good use of the smileys tho
good use of the smileys tho
90mustangGT said:
You're right, it's gotta be one of the simplest of modern EFI engines to work on. I think it was just a mix of the A/C lines and vacuum lines pissing me off. Probably would have been easier if I would have removed the hood so I could reach behind the intake better.
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
You need to spend a few years customizing the engine bay, removing those evil AC hoses, smog tubes, coolant lines and tucking wiring away...maybe a nice carb conversion and tubular k-member until you can reach every bit of the motor effortlessly.
I tried working on the girl's 302HO t-bird and I couldnt even get the oil filter out. It's sandwiched in there real good. For real laughs, try working on a japanese car like a toyota corolla. The oil filter was just about the only thing I COULD reach. After 2 days, I gave up trying to replace the starter and GASP, took it to a shop
I tried working on the girl's 302HO t-bird and I couldnt even get the oil filter out. It's sandwiched in there real good. For real laughs, try working on a japanese car like a toyota corolla. The oil filter was just about the only thing I COULD reach. After 2 days, I gave up trying to replace the starter and GASP, took it to a shop
darthcual
Member
mustangjoe87
Member
jeffs89gt said:easy to work on?..... there only easy to wash.... and thats about it. haha
heres how i usily am when i work on my car
parts come and i get excited and start work right away -
that sounds about right
It's especially tough when the car you are wrenching on is your daily driver. However, the more you do it the better (and faster) you will get.
I did my starter this weekend. I predicted 1-1/2 hours. Turns out it was 40 minutes. But, I was generous with my time budget and did not set unrealestic expectations. Therefore, I kept the anger in check (HULK mad at upper starter bolt...HULK smash car!) and actually enjoyed doing the work.
I did my starter this weekend. I predicted 1-1/2 hours. Turns out it was 40 minutes. But, I was generous with my time budget and did not set unrealestic expectations. Therefore, I kept the anger in check (HULK mad at upper starter bolt...HULK smash car!) and actually enjoyed doing the work.
there really easy to work on, if it was brand new. after u do somethin on it the first time, its easy if u ever have to do it agian.... like the rear brakes..... WHO DESIGNED THOSE FREAKIN TIHNGS!!!!!!! those are the hardest drum brakes i have ever done in my life.... took me 30 min to do the first side... the like 10 for the other cause i had kinda figured it out... the rear drums on my lifted 3/4 ton truck is 10x ezer.
mustang rear drums
mustang rear drumsthings soudn so much ezer than they are..... puttin on my h pipe and cat back, how hard could it be, i start at 6 done and cleaned up by 8.... its only takin 8 bolts off and a few hangers and cutting the axle over pipes and boltin up the new stuff.... how hard could it be.... yaaa right.... ya i was done by 8.... ya done braking 3 out of the 4 studs in the manifold flanges.... it took 20 min for me to pull each stud... so 1 1/2 hrs later i was done.... used a torch and vice grip.... then tappin and puttin in new studs took 20 min (i used the ones that hold the axle over pipe to the tails) after that it took 20 min to throw the hipe and cat back on.... i used bolts to hold hte tails on.... 2 hr job turned into 4 hrs...... just to take out 8 bolts and 2 hangers and put some new stuff on.... all done on the garage floor.... o ya and an pointer... dont spray inforce or wd-40 on the bolt and then heat it with a torch, 1 it lights on fire, and 2 the liquid gets REALLY hot and drips onto ur arms, and u cant get out of the way cause ur under the car..... also when u pull the studs out after u heat them up for 20 min, remember where u lay them down, then will burn an hole right threw ur shirt and right into ur skin.... i have hte outline of a manifold bolt on my right sholder... haha dont rush, take ur time and be patian, and dont curse at the car cause it has feelings
) after that it took 20 min to throw the hipe and cat back on.... i used bolts to hold hte tails on.... 2 hr job turned into 4 hrs...... just to take out 8 bolts and 2 hangers and put some new stuff on.... all done on the garage floor.... o ya and an pointer... dont spray inforce or wd-40 on the bolt and then heat it with a torch, 1 it lights on fire, and 2 the liquid gets REALLY hot and drips onto ur arms, and u cant get out of the way cause ur under the car..... also when u pull the studs out after u heat them up for 20 min, remember where u lay them down, then will burn an hole right threw ur shirt and right into ur skin.... i have hte outline of a manifold bolt on my right sholder... haha dont rush, take ur time and be patian, and dont curse at the car cause it has feelingsHAHA Ever look at taking off the carb off of a 84 CRX. That was my first big project on working on cars, and omg it wasnt easy. You have to remove over 50 Vaccum lines to get that bad boy off. And come to find out I could have removed all the lines and my car would still pass emissions. RArr oh and removing the tranny in a Toyota Celica is really hard, because coolant lines and ac lines run diagonally in and out of the firewall.
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