Howdy, my '88 mustang has a bad idle surge and runs very rich at idle, exhaust gasses burn my eyes in the garage...can't figure it out and tuned over and over again, etc. I read all the idle surge posts and so I am trying to attack this problem with as much info as possible, however, maybe some of my mods have something to do with it?............here are a few details (BBK Cold Air Induction and Full Length Headers, FLO-17113, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust (Diameter: 2.5"), MSD Blaster TFI Coil PN 8227, MSD-8456 MSD Distributor, Stock Heads Reworked ( 1.9 Intake & 1.6 Exhaust Valves), Scorpion studmount rockers (1.6 ratio), Roller Lifters HT-2205, Mass Air Conversion Kit, A9L computer, 24 lb injectors, 255 LPH Fuel Pump, 70mm Throttle Body, 70mm EGR Plate, Edelbrock Performer RPM II upper and lower intake, Ford Racing B-303 Cam) and I also gutted out all the smog **** and even both the heating and a/c systems entirely! Anyone want to read through my setup and possibly have helpful input? thanks, v/r
See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes] for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
Any codes? the strong exhaust smell sounds like something with the 02 sensors because thats what mine does when I was only running 1..... Pull the codes and reset the idle and tps like the thread says and it should do something
working it still working it....my O2 sensors are only a year old but maybe i should spend some cash to rule that out...just pulled the codes today, ouch, here they are: 51 O, C (ECT sensor out of range/circuit open) 67 O (Neutral pxs switch circuit failure, circuit open) 85 O (Canister purge solenoid circuit failure and/or Shift solenoid 3/4 - 4/3) what's that? 95 O,C (Fuel pump secondary circuit fault) 29 C (Insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor) When I tried to pull R codes (engine running), the meter wouldn't give me anything- not even let me know if it was running in safe mode or not. Am determined to figure it out eventually!
Code 29 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is an electronic sender mounted on the speedo pickup gear on the trans. It works the cruse control for both 5 speed and auto trans cars. The VSS is used to tell the computer to speed up the idle as you slow to a stop. This helps keep the engine from stalling when you slow down for a stop sign or stop light. Check to see if the electrical connector is plugged into it. Clean the connector & contacts with non flammable brake parts cleaner prior to replacing the sensor, as that may fix the problem. The sensor cost is under $30 and it is easy to replace. Code 51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - Possible bad ECT sensor, or wiring. Possible missing signal ground – black/wire wire broken or bad connection. With the power off, measure the resistance between the black/white wire and battery ground. You should see less than 1 ohm. Check the same black /white wire on the TPS and MAP sensor. More than 1 ohm there and the wire is probably broken in the harness between the engine and the computer. The 10 pin connectors pass the black/white wire back to the computer, and can cause problems. Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts Voltages may be measured across the ECT by probing the connector from the rear. Use care in doing it so that you don't damage the wiring or connector. 50 degrees F = 3.52 v 68 degrees F = 3.02 v 86 degrees F = 2.62 v 104 degrees F = 2.16 v 122 degrees F = 1.72 v 140 degrees F = 1.35 v 158 degrees F = 1.04 v 176 degrees F = .80 v 194 degrees F = .61 212 degrees F = .47 v 230 degrees F = .36 v 248 degrees F = .28 v Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected. 50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms 68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms 86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms 104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms 122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms 140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms 158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms 176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms 194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms 212 degrees F = 2.07 K ohms 230 degrees F = 1.55 K ohms 248 degrees F = 1.18 k ohms Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance. The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven. The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer. Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!! Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it. The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position. Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it? Code 95 Key O, Engine not Running - the following test path is for 86-90 model Mustangs. The 95 code is because at one time or another, the fuel pump relay hiccupped and didn't provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this is a one time thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition. To help troubleshoot the 95 code, follow this link for a wiring diagram http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the driver’s side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. No voltage there, check the Orange/Lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. If there is good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay. Some Mass Air conversions neglect to run the extra fuel pump wire, and they always have a 95 code. See http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html for more information on the Mass Air wiring conversion. Fix the code 67 and the engine running codes will dump. Usually you just have to push in on the clutch and make sure the A/C is off when you dump the codes.
MAF ALCON: my MAF sensor is a 75mm and my throttle body is a 70mm...that is a non-issue, though right? v/r
None of The codes you posted pointed to a MAF related problem. If you have a Cold Air Intake or aftermarket MAF not matched to the injector size, you could have a MAF related problem and not get a MAF code (code 66).
too rich of an idle will cause surging, seeing how you are running 24s on a stock tune i would check in that area... perhaps putting stock injectors and MAF back on to see if it clears it up... that will let you know whats wrong.
no worries there, thanks, i am working the checklist...really want to get a dino tune on it, but pointless to do with all these problms right now! back to the garage i go and by garage i mean outside in the 95 degree Louisiana sun
Well, i was finally able to get a key on engine running test and guess what, she's been running in "Failure Mode"....a code 98 accompanied by a code 51 (ECT sensor out of range/circuit open), so that is what i need to fix first. Do I need to put the ECT sensor back in (remember, i gutted the heating system in which the ECT sensor was mounted) or can i burn a chip to fix that? Got to get the car out of Failure Mode, maybe that is why it is running rich. v/r
The ECT is necessary to help the computer set the proper air/fuel ratio. A trip to Home Depot can help you find some brass fittings to mount the ECT directly in the intake manifold if you don't want to use the heater supply tubing.
